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bringing it back from the dead!!!!...any updates on the CF Driveshaft???
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yes and no. Nothing firm to report.
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the first page of this was painful to read. all these NASCAR internet engineers....
My lowly A4 comes with a CF driveshaft stock. theyre more common these days...
My lowly A4 comes with a CF driveshaft stock. theyre more common these days...
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My lowly A4 comes with a CF driveshaft stock. theyre more common these days...
Originally Posted by SETSEROCK
the first page of this was painful to read. all these NASCAR internet engineers....My lowly A4 comes with a CF driveshaft stock. theyre more common these days...
and what does that CF driveshaft do for the lowly A4???
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Quote:
and what does that CF driveshaft do for the lowly A4???
It spins the center diff....Originally Posted by Newzchspy
[/U][/I][/B]and what does that CF driveshaft do for the lowly A4???
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Saving 5 lbs off of drivetrain parts will have a bigger affect on acceleration than removing 50 lbs off of the car. Losing 10 lbs off a flywheel will do MUCH more than losing 100 off of the car.
I once swapped out my pistons for forged aluminum units and my stock cams for billet cams. i retained my dual mass FW. the difference in rev speed to redline was amazing. Inertia is the issue here. saving 7 lbs a wheel, for example, is great!!! saving unsprung weight is the best place to look for weight savings.
I once swapped out my pistons for forged aluminum units and my stock cams for billet cams. i retained my dual mass FW. the difference in rev speed to redline was amazing. Inertia is the issue here. saving 7 lbs a wheel, for example, is great!!! saving unsprung weight is the best place to look for weight savings.
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Quote:
I once swapped out my pistons for forged aluminum units and my stock cams for billet cams. i retained my dual mass FW. the difference in rev speed to redline was amazing. Inertia is the issue here. saving 7 lbs a wheel, for example, is great!!! saving unsprung weight is the best place to look for weight savings.
It is not that simple. It matters where the weight you remove is coming from and its relation to the moment of inertia.Originally Posted by SETSEROCK
Saving 5 lbs off of drivetrain parts will have a bigger affect on acceleration than removing 50 lbs off of the car. Losing 10 lbs off a flywheel will do MUCH more than losing 100 off of the car.I once swapped out my pistons for forged aluminum units and my stock cams for billet cams. i retained my dual mass FW. the difference in rev speed to redline was amazing. Inertia is the issue here. saving 7 lbs a wheel, for example, is great!!! saving unsprung weight is the best place to look for weight savings.
If you remove 10lbs from the inner edge of the flywheel it is not nearly as useful as shaving 10lbs from the outer edge.
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If you remove 10lbs from the inner edge of the flywheel it is not nearly as useful as shaving 10lbs from the outer edge.
Originally Posted by 430
It is not that simple. It matters where the weight you remove is coming from and its relation to the moment of inertia.If you remove 10lbs from the inner edge of the flywheel it is not nearly as useful as shaving 10lbs from the outer edge.
+1
I don't disagree with the flywheel argument, but here we're talking a driveshaft and you're going to save what, 10 LBS?? Wouldn't you be better off saving it on the U Joints??
To quote: "Many racers experience a half a tenth increase in performance just by going with a carbon fiber driveshaft." (and these driveshafts are thousands $$$)
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Agreed. this thread is a big waste of time. It wont happen, and if it did, it would be exceedingly expensive and would have very little impact by itself. basically it would be a complete waste of money...For a full on track car, then yes, it would be beneficial to the whole package. but who really has a dedicated w203 c-class track sedan.....
/end thread.
/end thread.
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Think about it...if NASCAR still uses steel driveshafts than this is the best to use. The only other safe material for a driveshaft is aluminum.
A Carbon Fiber driveshaft may be ok for normal use on a small car like mine, but not on a high performance Benz...
If you don't believe me try it, I bet it won't last 6 months unless you drive around like a grandma.
I took a class at NASCAR Tech about drivelines and transmissions, and seen pictures and heard stories about the CF shafts.
Like I said before, Aluminum is what you want.
The more torque a car has the faster it spins? That’s not correct, is it? Torque is turning force. The more torque it has the more physical force is exerted through the shaft, but this is nothing to do with how fast it spins. That’s a product of engine RPM and gearing, right? Originally Posted by xlr8tin
Carbon fiber for a driveshaft is bad! The driveshaft spins VERY fast. The more TQ a car has the faster it will spin....Think about it...if NASCAR still uses steel driveshafts than this is the best to use. The only other safe material for a driveshaft is aluminum.
A Carbon Fiber driveshaft may be ok for normal use on a small car like mine, but not on a high performance Benz...
If you don't believe me try it, I bet it won't last 6 months unless you drive around like a grandma.
I took a class at NASCAR Tech about drivelines and transmissions, and seen pictures and heard stories about the CF shafts.
Like I said before, Aluminum is what you want.
I would imagine if they are made for high performance cars they will be tested and verified safe for our cars. I ride a carbon fibre MTB, and regularly case the downtube- rock strikes, tree stumps, the lot. Not a dent. And not the “shatters to millions of pieces” scenario all the people who can’t afford CF will tell you will happen the minute you tap it with a pencil. It’s wonder stuff.