ASP pulley guys, check your pulley!
#1
ASP pulley guys, check your pulley!
ASP pulley (3 years old, 18000miles)
Rubber ring broken off
Here's the story:
Yesterday, I sent my car to my friend's garage to have a regular check. During the inspection, my friend spotted that the rubber ring between the inner and outer rings of the asp pulley has slightly pulled off, about 3-4mm, so we immidiately took it off to see what's going on, and when I first looked at the back of the pulley once it took off, I was like holy shxt.. the rubber ring's been badly damaged! if I hadn't found it out, I would have been in deep shxt for sure. Then we decided to put the original crank pulley back in, but once we fitted in the pulley, and tried to tighten the belt, we found out that the belt(oem 2908mm) was too long, I was like wtf, all the pulleys other than the code3 s/c pulley were all originals, it's supposed to fit but how come it wouldn't fit right in...! so we tried to see if there's any shorter belt available, but couldn't find any... so I suggested DIY welding the inner and outer ring together to see if it works or not, luckily it finally works out, ran it for a day, no problems so far, but i am afraid that it would create another problem soon, since it has become an non-dampened crankshaft pulley. what do you guys think?
here are the pictures:
![](http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g17/audiax6/before2.jpg)
![](http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g17/audiax6/before1.jpg)
AFTER fix: (so ugly, I know)
Rubber ring broken off
Here's the story:
Yesterday, I sent my car to my friend's garage to have a regular check. During the inspection, my friend spotted that the rubber ring between the inner and outer rings of the asp pulley has slightly pulled off, about 3-4mm, so we immidiately took it off to see what's going on, and when I first looked at the back of the pulley once it took off, I was like holy shxt.. the rubber ring's been badly damaged! if I hadn't found it out, I would have been in deep shxt for sure. Then we decided to put the original crank pulley back in, but once we fitted in the pulley, and tried to tighten the belt, we found out that the belt(oem 2908mm) was too long, I was like wtf, all the pulleys other than the code3 s/c pulley were all originals, it's supposed to fit but how come it wouldn't fit right in...! so we tried to see if there's any shorter belt available, but couldn't find any... so I suggested DIY welding the inner and outer ring together to see if it works or not, luckily it finally works out, ran it for a day, no problems so far, but i am afraid that it would create another problem soon, since it has become an non-dampened crankshaft pulley. what do you guys think?
here are the pictures:
![](http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g17/audiax6/before2.jpg)
![](http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g17/audiax6/before1.jpg)
AFTER fix: (so ugly, I know)
![](http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g17/audiax6/after1.jpg)
Last edited by M_M; 09-27-2008 at 12:50 AM.
#2
Super Moderator
Sorry to see that.
Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon with the ASP...https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/257769-asp-pulley.html
Not clear on why the OE crank/CP3 supercharger pulley combination couldn’t be refitted with your belt. Any ideas? That ASP is probably not conducive to long-term crankshaft durability, imho.
Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon with the ASP...https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/257769-asp-pulley.html
Not clear on why the OE crank/CP3 supercharger pulley combination couldn’t be refitted with your belt. Any ideas? That ASP is probably not conducive to long-term crankshaft durability, imho.
#4
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Probably better to be dampened, plus if the welds aren't placed perfectly, the pulley may now be a bit out of balance at high RPMs.
B.T.W. the reason your belt was too long is because ASP also sends a replacement water pump and idler pulley with their kits (both smaller) to make the larger crank pulley work with the stock belt and keep it from contacting the O.E.M. water pump pulley. There's no way all of your other pulleys are currently stock. You need to switch back to the stock water pump pulley and idler pulley and then the belt will fit properly with the stock crank pulley.
B.T.W. the reason your belt was too long is because ASP also sends a replacement water pump and idler pulley with their kits (both smaller) to make the larger crank pulley work with the stock belt and keep it from contacting the O.E.M. water pump pulley. There's no way all of your other pulleys are currently stock. You need to switch back to the stock water pump pulley and idler pulley and then the belt will fit properly with the stock crank pulley.
#6
Super Member
Probably better to be dampened, plus if the welds aren't placed perfectly, the pulley may now be a bit out of balance at high RPMs.
B.T.W. the reason your belt was too long is because ASP also sends a replacement water pump and idler pulley with their kits (both smaller) to make the larger crank pulley work with the stock belt and keep it from contacting the O.E.M. water pump pulley. There's no way all of your other pulleys are currently stock. You need to switch back to the stock water pump pulley and idler pulley and then the belt will fit properly with the stock crank pulley.
B.T.W. the reason your belt was too long is because ASP also sends a replacement water pump and idler pulley with their kits (both smaller) to make the larger crank pulley work with the stock belt and keep it from contacting the O.E.M. water pump pulley. There's no way all of your other pulleys are currently stock. You need to switch back to the stock water pump pulley and idler pulley and then the belt will fit properly with the stock crank pulley.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
You should have smaller accessory pullies if you were running the ASP crank pulley. If that's the case, you'll need to put your stockers back on for appropriate belt fitting.
Aside from the aesthetic nature of those welds, I strongly suggest you send that pulley out for balancing.
i.e. Do NOT reinstall that welded ASP pulley. The position of those welds relative to the balancing 'boring' is way off.
I would go so far as to make the bold statement that anyone who installs a used (or even new) crank pulley without getting assurance that it is balanced correctly is playing with fire. I look at crank pulleys in the same way as centrifuge rotors - if you'd like to see the carnage that can ensue due to a slightly unbalanced rotor at lowish rpm, let me know and I'll send some photos!
It costs no more than ~$30 to get a pulley balanced and many machinists can do this job. PM me if you need a contact to do balancing.
#7
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
Agree w/ others that you shouldn't keep running that ASP... while you're probably out of any warranty period w/ ASP, you might be able to send it to ASP, explain the situation, and try to receive a new one at a discount. In the end, I'd say get a new ASP 178mm, evosport 178mm, or LET 181mm, and get it on there ASAP.
Last edited by c32AMG-DTM; 09-27-2008 at 12:48 PM.
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We're so sorry to hear of the issue!! ![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
If it helps, I'll be glad to give you a sweet discount on a new pulley as I feel bad. Shoot me an email to Aaron@code3performance.com if you like.![Cheers](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
-Aaron
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
If it helps, I'll be glad to give you a sweet discount on a new pulley as I feel bad. Shoot me an email to Aaron@code3performance.com if you like.
![Cheers](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
-Aaron
#9
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
We're so sorry to hear of the issue!! ![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
If it helps, I'll be glad to give you a sweet discount on a new pulley as I feel bad. Shoot me an email to Aaron@code3performance.com if you like.![Cheers](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
-Aaron
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
If it helps, I'll be glad to give you a sweet discount on a new pulley as I feel bad. Shoot me an email to Aaron@code3performance.com if you like.
![Cheers](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
-Aaron
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#11
Sorry to see that.
Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon with the ASP...https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=257769
Not clear on why the OE crank/CP3 supercharger pulley combination couldn’t be refitted with your belt. Any ideas? That ASP is probably not conducive to long-term crankshaft durability, imho.
Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon with the ASP...https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=257769
Not clear on why the OE crank/CP3 supercharger pulley combination couldn’t be refitted with your belt. Any ideas? That ASP is probably not conducive to long-term crankshaft durability, imho.
B.T.W. the reason your belt was too long is because ASP also sends a replacement water pump and idler pulley with their kits (both smaller) to make the larger crank pulley work with the stock belt and keep it from contacting the O.E.M. water pump pulley. There's no way all of your other pulleys are currently stock. You need to switch back to the stock water pump pulley and idler pulley and then the belt will fit properly with the stock crank pulley.
Aside from the aesthetic nature of those welds, I strongly suggest you send that pulley out for balancing.
i.e. Do NOT reinstall that welded ASP pulley. The position of those welds relative to the balancing 'boring' is way off.
I would go so far as to make the bold statement that anyone who installs a used (or even new) crank pulley without getting assurance that it is balanced correctly is playing with fire. I look at crank pulleys in the same way as centrifuge rotors - if you'd like to see the carnage that can ensue due to a slightly unbalanced rotor at lowish rpm, let me know and I'll send some photos!
It costs no more than ~$30 to get a pulley balanced and many machinists can do this job. PM me if you need a contact to do balancing.
i.e. Do NOT reinstall that welded ASP pulley. The position of those welds relative to the balancing 'boring' is way off.
I would go so far as to make the bold statement that anyone who installs a used (or even new) crank pulley without getting assurance that it is balanced correctly is playing with fire. I look at crank pulleys in the same way as centrifuge rotors - if you'd like to see the carnage that can ensue due to a slightly unbalanced rotor at lowish rpm, let me know and I'll send some photos!
It costs no more than ~$30 to get a pulley balanced and many machinists can do this job. PM me if you need a contact to do balancing.
Agree w/ others that you shouldn't keep running that ASP... while you're probably out of any warranty period w/ ASP, you might be able to send it to ASP, explain the situation, and try to receive a new one at a discount. In the end, I'd say get a new ASP 178mm, evosport 178mm, or LET 181mm, and get it on there ASAP.
We're so sorry to hear of the issue!! ![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
If it helps, I'll be glad to give you a sweet discount on a new pulley as I feel bad. Shoot me an email to Aaron@code3performance.com if you like.![Cheers](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
-Aaron
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
If it helps, I'll be glad to give you a sweet discount on a new pulley as I feel bad. Shoot me an email to Aaron@code3performance.com if you like.
![Cheers](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
-Aaron
#12
Senior Member
The Problem with the damaged rubber ring is not new with the M112 V6-Engines.
MB changed the design of the Stock-Pulley, there is a new Part-Nr.
In Germany damaged Pulleys were often changed for free by MB if they were damaged. The rubber ring mainly failed on high mileage-cars.
I checked my ASP-Pulley today and it looks fine. It is a relatively new pulley. 6 Months old 5.000 KM. I think ASP uses the new MB-Pulley now.
But it is a good idea to keep an eye on this rubber ring and the welds from time to time.
I check mine every week now... Failure could cause very bad damage.
MB changed the design of the Stock-Pulley, there is a new Part-Nr.
In Germany damaged Pulleys were often changed for free by MB if they were damaged. The rubber ring mainly failed on high mileage-cars.
I checked my ASP-Pulley today and it looks fine. It is a relatively new pulley. 6 Months old 5.000 KM. I think ASP uses the new MB-Pulley now.
But it is a good idea to keep an eye on this rubber ring and the welds from time to time.
I check mine every week now... Failure could cause very bad damage.
#13
wow, I can't believe you are actually putting that thing back on there, its bad enough in is original form (not the best design) but to put THAT thing back on there... I hope you have enough cash lying around for a spare engine.
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M_M,
We manufacture our own products so we're able to control their quality.![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Let me know if you have any further questions, I'm here to help.
-Aaron
We manufacture our own products so we're able to control their quality.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Let me know if you have any further questions, I'm here to help.
-Aaron
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#18
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