This morning (44 degrees) the car started up kind of funny (cranked slow, stumbled then started and ran fine). But when I popped it into reverse, the rear tires actually chirped. Idle was probably a little high (1500 rpm?) but it never chirps the tires. Then underway it would only shift up to third gear. I pulled to the side, shut down, and restarted. From that point on, everything was fine.

I know my battery is shakey. It was tested and found faulty TWO YEARS ago! So it's probably due for a replacement. I'm guessing (hoping) that the weak voltage screwed up the transmission computer and sent it into limp mode. Batteries are cheaper than transmissions.

Trannys need the correct voltage to run otherwise they give problems as you just experienced. Sometimes it won't even go into gear.

Thx. I'll pick up a new battery this week.

I'm trying to remember if MB has any security quirks to consider when I swap out my battery. Will my radio lock up?

You think?

How did you get a DD to keep running for 2 years on a faulty battery? I would have expected several other electronic anomolies to have cropped up before now.

The radio should not lock but you will need to re-calibrate your windows and sunroof. I am not sure of the other problems when swapping the battery.

If your radio has a theft deterrent code inputted then just change it to something you know and after changing to new Battery just input new code and if you didn't input your own code then I guess its setup to OEM specs so it may be in your manual or just use a 12volt battery maybe 9 to hold memory of the system while you swap batteries...hope it helps

The battery was diagnosed as faulty by the dealer when it showed no symptoms (car was in for something elst), and I was certainly not going to pay dealer pricing and labor for a battery. So I just deferred. I didn't even give it a thought until this morning. It's probably the original battery. Almost 7 years on an original battery is pretty good.

Yepper, sounds like battery to me, ML does it all the time when battery goes bad (due to lack of driving it). Could have been that dreaded 89 octane too??

however, if the car started and was running the alt was prob generating enough voltage to provide the correct power.

the sometimes not going into gear thing just sounds like a neutral saftey switch to me..

in my oponion it was probably just a burp in the ecu ( as i believe that the shift points are set there?) the high ideling is just becuase it was cold out. higher end cars usually have warmup sequences. if i were you. i would have the battery tested again just to make sure its faulty. however, a faulty battery does not sound like the issue to me

Glenn, let it gooooooo. We have given Vic crap in his threads, now your smattering it everywhere.

By the way, I don't run 93 either.







I can only get 91.

Change that thing A.S.A.P. A week battery puts more strain on the alternator. Basically, the voltage regulator never sees a full charge and thus keeps the alternator's output on constantly. This will overheat the regulator and kill your alternator.

Reputable automotive battery shops or even Sears provide temp power to your vehicle so as not to disrupt any programming set ups before removal of your battery. Good luck. And do it asap.

At $1100-$1300 for a new alternator, installed at the dealer, that's good advice.

+1,000,000

Don't forget to recalibrate steering angle sensor: turn wheels all the way to left and than all the way to the right.- avoid annoing message : ESP OFF PLEASE VISIT WORKSHOP and BRING A SUITCASE OF CASH

FYI, a nuetral saftey switch prevents the vehicle from starting in gear and is irrelavant to what is being described. In other words if that switch is bad car won't start at all, there is a switch on the brake pedal of which if it goes bad then the car won't go into gear. If voltage to tcu is below voltage recommended it will go into gear but will not go of course that's when battery and alternator are both not to specs.

Ditto here!

I was just afflicted with the infamous seat control battery drain problem, and experienced nearly the same problems you did.

On a slow crank my car will not shift out of 1st gear, and the Winter/Summer traction switch will not function. After the slow crank the car "lurches" when moving the shift selector into reverse, and even more so going into drive.

Stopping and restarting may or may not correct the problem.

No problems on a normal crank with the battery just off the trickle charger.

I will be fixing the seat control issue ASAP

Battery replaced and all is fine. Thanks for the info, guys. Original battery went 6+ years, so I've got nothing to complain about.

I am putting a new battery in the SRT tomorrow. I have been fighting an intermittant CPS fault for about six weeks. It wouldnt start when I installed the moded manifolds this week and I hooked up the battery charger at 200a crank and it started fine. Took it off and no start. Re-connect, instant start. Mine is the original battery also. I'll find out tomorrow if I fix my CPS fault.

MikeR

** Installed new battery and all is well since this post

The new "hot mod" for the C32 is getting a functioning battery!

PS: My driver's seat bottom heater is broken AGAIN. I don't know if I have teh energy to have it fixed.