In a Drastic turn of Events!
#51
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C55 AMG, CLK550
Hooley, Good luck with all this. Prayer might be in order although it appears you have a handle on what's needed. Good luck!!!!
#53
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2013 C63 AMG P31, 2014 GMC Sierra (6.2)
It will undoubtedly be a long road ahead but you'll learn a lot and and certainly gain a new appreciation for this sort of thing. Again, good luck and we'll all be following this closely!
#54
Hello Hooley,
Correct, a larger pulley on the supercharger itself, Crank pulley must remain stock diameter. Honestly for DynoComp, this shouldn't be that tough, they do alot of amazing projects and they are as far as tuning is concerned they are very good and have a large database of software to pull from. Not to mention they have Dyno Dynamics dyno so its the perfect platform to tune the car on as it is the most realistic & accurate dyno out there.
I would stick with the C55 ECU, and have then totally redo a new software program for you with the C55 ECU and a larger pulley on the supercharger itself, realistically I don't think either of those is your biggest problem... I think the biggest problem is fitment. Sunil @ Motorwerks had to completely change the whole front end of his car to all CLK components (front quarterpanel & hood + custom brackets for front end) thats what worries me the most, not the pulley, not the software. If you have seen his car in person you would understand why that is my largest concern. A lot more work went into lengthening the engine bay than went into things like that, but again you may be able to pull it off without enlarging the engine bay but needless to say... it will be a tight fit.
Correct, a larger pulley on the supercharger itself, Crank pulley must remain stock diameter. Honestly for DynoComp, this shouldn't be that tough, they do alot of amazing projects and they are as far as tuning is concerned they are very good and have a large database of software to pull from. Not to mention they have Dyno Dynamics dyno so its the perfect platform to tune the car on as it is the most realistic & accurate dyno out there.
I would stick with the C55 ECU, and have then totally redo a new software program for you with the C55 ECU and a larger pulley on the supercharger itself, realistically I don't think either of those is your biggest problem... I think the biggest problem is fitment. Sunil @ Motorwerks had to completely change the whole front end of his car to all CLK components (front quarterpanel & hood + custom brackets for front end) thats what worries me the most, not the pulley, not the software. If you have seen his car in person you would understand why that is my largest concern. A lot more work went into lengthening the engine bay than went into things like that, but again you may be able to pull it off without enlarging the engine bay but needless to say... it will be a tight fit.
#55
Hello Hooley,
Sunil @ Motorwerks had to completely change the whole front end of his car to all CLK components (front quarterpanel & hood + custom brackets for front end) thats what worries me the most, not the pulley, not the software. If you have seen his car in person you would understand why that is my largest concern. A lot more work went into lengthening the engine bay than went into things like that, but again you may be able to pull it off without enlarging the engine bay but needless to say... it will be a tight fit.
Sunil @ Motorwerks had to completely change the whole front end of his car to all CLK components (front quarterpanel & hood + custom brackets for front end) thats what worries me the most, not the pulley, not the software. If you have seen his car in person you would understand why that is my largest concern. A lot more work went into lengthening the engine bay than went into things like that, but again you may be able to pull it off without enlarging the engine bay but needless to say... it will be a tight fit.
But yes for those that have seen Sunil try to get the E55 beast in to the regular C class, it is daunting to look at, but that will be the ultimate sleeper.......
#56
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... I think the biggest problem is fitment. Sunil @ Motorwerks had to completely change the whole front end of his car to all CLK components (front quarterpanel & hood + custom brackets for front end) thats what worries me the most, not the pulley, not the software. If you have seen his car in person you would understand why that is my largest concern. A lot more work went into lengthening the engine bay than went into things like that, but again you may be able to pull it off without enlarging the engine bay but needless to say... it will be a tight fit.
edit; rp beat me to it.
#58
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C55,SL55,C63
IMO room wont be an issue these C55 fit SC'ers. this whole fornt of the car is a W209. IMO I would think getting the supercharger installed is the easy part. The tech at the shop said it would take no time to install the SC'er its all the other stuff like heat H/E, running cooling lines and what not. I'm getting a little more faith in this project. question is should i try to get a stock H/E on the cheap or just go with C3P H/E?
#59
IMO room wont be an issue these C55 fit SC'ers. this whole fornt of the car is a W209. IMO I would think getting the supercharger installed is the easy part. The tech at the shop said it would take no time to install the SC'er its all the other stuff like heat H/E, running cooling lines and what not. I'm getting a little more faith in this project. question is should i try to get a stock H/E on the cheap or just go with C3P H/E?
Honestly with what you have going on, I would let the people doing the work make that call. Your sort of at the sign here line...........
I would go C3P if it was me........
#60
Good call, W209 front end saves you alot of time and money. Then the project shouldn't be that difficult then if thats the case. Really just a matter of having them do all the nitty gritty and getting it done.
Keep in mind, you need to work closely with dynocomp since they are doing the tuning and you have to match a pulley with the software. They have to be designed together at the same time, so start off with a plan and once you have figured out exactly what boost psi you want to run and etc then you can decide all the rest. I think realistically 6PSI is a good safe starting point and should give you great deal of power on your engine. Hope that helps.
Keep in mind, you need to work closely with dynocomp since they are doing the tuning and you have to match a pulley with the software. They have to be designed together at the same time, so start off with a plan and once you have figured out exactly what boost psi you want to run and etc then you can decide all the rest. I think realistically 6PSI is a good safe starting point and should give you great deal of power on your engine. Hope that helps.
#63
The biggest problem I see is the 11:1 compression on the M113 5.4 NA motor. You won't be able to run more than 3~4 psi of boost which honestly is a waste of time. Besides, turn those Lysholms screws too slowly and they fall off the efficiency map. You can probably run the boost up to about 5 psi with over enrichment, but that may cost you more power than the additional pressure buys you.
There are a few solutions to this... none of them particularly easy to accomplish. I'll spell them out and let you think about which route you want to go down if running a huge pulley and minimal boost proves unsatisfying.
(1) Tear apart the motor and install low compression pistons. You can drop compression to 9:1 easily this way and run that screw at full speed (or faster)!
(2) You can use a thick copper head gasket to drop compression. No need to disassemble the bottom end to do this, but you probably need to dick around with the chain support/tension to accommodate them. Hard to drop more than 8~10% compression this way though and the chances of gasket failure and your engine grenading is increased.
(3) You can get someone to grind you a set of VERY SPECIAL camshafts which closes the intake valves very very late -- well into the compression stroke late. This turns your engine into an Atkinson/Miller cycle powerplant. What happens is that as the piston goes up and the intake valves stay open you kick some of the ingested air back out of the intake ports! Compression doesn't start until the intake valves close, and because the volume of your combustion chamber at TDC remains the same, effective compression is reduced. And it gets more interesting... your effective displacement is reduced as well since the actual swept volume is also now based on your reduced compression stroke! By the time you get down to 9:1 compression this way, you would also have created the equivalent of a 4.5 liter engine. Lastly, because your expansion stroke remains the same 92mm you now have an asymetrical compression/expansion stroke which makes the engine more efficient at extracting power from every drop of fuel. You'll need to drastically remap your ECU to work the new Miller engine, but it'll be interesting!
Given the 92mm stroke and 11:1 compression, going to 9.0:1 will require an effective stroke of 9 x 92/11 = 75.3mm. So basically, you'll want the intake valve to close after the piston has traveled about 16.7 mm up from BDC. Actually probably an couple of millimeters later than that since intake valves do not close instantaneously a some compression will before they are completely shut. The expansion stroke will still be 92mm giving you a 1.22 expansion to compression stroke ratio. That is pretty optimal for a miller engine actually which typically are between 1.2 and 1.3.
There are a few solutions to this... none of them particularly easy to accomplish. I'll spell them out and let you think about which route you want to go down if running a huge pulley and minimal boost proves unsatisfying.
(1) Tear apart the motor and install low compression pistons. You can drop compression to 9:1 easily this way and run that screw at full speed (or faster)!
(2) You can use a thick copper head gasket to drop compression. No need to disassemble the bottom end to do this, but you probably need to dick around with the chain support/tension to accommodate them. Hard to drop more than 8~10% compression this way though and the chances of gasket failure and your engine grenading is increased.
(3) You can get someone to grind you a set of VERY SPECIAL camshafts which closes the intake valves very very late -- well into the compression stroke late. This turns your engine into an Atkinson/Miller cycle powerplant. What happens is that as the piston goes up and the intake valves stay open you kick some of the ingested air back out of the intake ports! Compression doesn't start until the intake valves close, and because the volume of your combustion chamber at TDC remains the same, effective compression is reduced. And it gets more interesting... your effective displacement is reduced as well since the actual swept volume is also now based on your reduced compression stroke! By the time you get down to 9:1 compression this way, you would also have created the equivalent of a 4.5 liter engine. Lastly, because your expansion stroke remains the same 92mm you now have an asymetrical compression/expansion stroke which makes the engine more efficient at extracting power from every drop of fuel. You'll need to drastically remap your ECU to work the new Miller engine, but it'll be interesting!
Given the 92mm stroke and 11:1 compression, going to 9.0:1 will require an effective stroke of 9 x 92/11 = 75.3mm. So basically, you'll want the intake valve to close after the piston has traveled about 16.7 mm up from BDC. Actually probably an couple of millimeters later than that since intake valves do not close instantaneously a some compression will before they are completely shut. The expansion stroke will still be 92mm giving you a 1.22 expansion to compression stroke ratio. That is pretty optimal for a miller engine actually which typically are between 1.2 and 1.3.
Last edited by dwightlooi; 01-11-2009 at 12:33 AM. Reason: Additional Info
#64
11.0:1 isn't that crazy high, E46 M3 is 11.5:1 and you see SCs being run at 7psi. On 10.5:1 you can run 9+ psi easy. Honestly 6psi is not pushing it that much on an 11.0:1, you should be fine as long as the quality of the tune is very good.
#66
You can always dump fuel to run more boost. But that won't actually get you more power, it'll just get you more boost along with higher fuel consumption. Take it further and you'll lose power and then start fouling the spark plugs.
Last edited by dwightlooi; 01-11-2009 at 09:35 AM.
#67
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Honestly, I would return the AMG supercharger and go Kleemann. You are setting yourself up for a lot of trouble. Kleemann engineered their supercharger specifically for the N/A M113 and its higher compression ratio. Even if you manage to make this setup work...it will be prone to issues later on.
#68
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I've driven mbenzman's W208/55 cabrio with AMG supercharger and can tell you it is scary fast.
I know it puts out much more boost than the Kleemann unit, and has spent a lot of time with getting everything to work together.
Good luck with your project!
I know it puts out much more boost than the Kleemann unit, and has spent a lot of time with getting everything to work together.
Good luck with your project!
#69
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C55,SL55,C63
Some slightly good news
After you guys scared the heck out of me with this whole project, I strolled into the shop that will be doing the install, to ask a truck load of questions (thank you guys). Ken, from Renntech and Richard the owner or the shop showed be an SL55 that was there and started looking over the parts we would need to get the job done. I expressed fear about the whole project. So the guys showed me a whole install file they created back when they did this mod before. IT was complete with detailed pictures, wiring diagrams, and hose placements etc. They said they new how to work around the supercharger clutch and that would not be a problem at all. I was told this is the same setup that renntech used before they had their own SC system. I was also told that I could use a stock C32 Heat Exchanger because i am going to be running far less boost and the SC wont get as hot. Basicly, and I use that word loosely. I will need some gaskets, H/E, and a few pulleys and belts. Once I got all that stuff its install time. Ken from Renntech said he will get the car tuned no problem.
#70
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Awsome! Sounds like you're on your way Hooleyboy!
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
I think jturkel has an OEM C32 HE still for sale...
https://mbworld.org/forums/engine-pe...exchanger.html
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
I think jturkel has an OEM C32 HE still for sale...
https://mbworld.org/forums/engine-pe...exchanger.html
After you guys scared the heck out of me with this whole project, I strolled into the shop that will be doing the install, to ask a truck load of questions (thank you guys). Ken, from Renntech and Richard the owner or the shop showed be an SL55 that was there and started looking over the parts we would need to get the job done. I expressed fear about the whole project. So the guys showed me a whole install file they created back when they did this mod before. IT was complete with detailed pictures, wiring diagrams, and hose placements etc. They said they new how to work around the supercharger clutch and that would not be a problem at all. I was told this is the same setup that renntech used before they had their own SC system. I was also told that I could use a stock C32 Heat Exchanger because i am going to be running far less boost and the SC wont get as hot. Basicly, and I use that word loosely. I will need some gaskets, H/E, and a few pulleys and belts. Once I got all that stuff its install time. Ken from Renntech said he will get the car tuned no problem.
#71
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I seen a pic of the finished product and it looked real nice, Then renntech screws it up with this huge and i mean huge CF cover that looked so bad IMO. Now i got to search for some parts.
#72
I think jturkel has an OEM C32 HE still for sale...
https://mbworld.org/forums/engine-pe...exchanger.html
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
i happen to have my stock C32 Heat Exchanger I took off when I installed my LET Heat Exchanger. Let me know or PM me if you are interested. Good luck on your car! Can't wait to see this beast! It is going to be one bad a$$ mo fo!
#73
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Let me make sure that the C32 heat exchanger is what I need. I'm only going to be running 7psi of boost max, So i'm guessing a huge H/E or c3p H/E might be over kill.
#74