C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Replacing SAM

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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 12:18 PM
  #1  
dkflipse's Avatar
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From: South FLA
C32 AMG
Replacing SAM

My indy mechanic has narrowed down an open circuit issue to my front SAM module, and claims it needs to be replaced. I think the part from the dealer is about $425. Does anybody know what reasonable labor should be/what the stated factory labor requirement is?

TIA
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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2006 E55 2005 Crossfire SRT-6
1.2 R&R front SAM , .2 to update software, .1 to recode SAM, .1 to hook up battery charger so 1.6 total..... Straight from Mercedes-Benz StarTime.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 06:31 PM
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Perfect. Thanks.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dkflipse
Perfect. Thanks.
Your welcome
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ImportLabSRT
Your welcome
if only you worked at a dealership you probably could have gotten closer times......
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by loungn14
if only you worked at a dealership you probably could have gotten closer times......
No comment
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by loungn14
if only you worked at a dealership you probably could have gotten closer times......
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:28 PM
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what problems were you having to have to replace ur sam? thanks
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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My dash had warning lights for both low washer fluid and low coolant - even though both were full. I had an indy mechanic run a STAR diagnosis. That damn software is like auto shop for dummies. It not only describes the problem but even gives you a full color picture of the problem area.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dkflipse
My dash had warning lights for both low washer fluid and low coolant - even though both were full. I had an indy mechanic run a STAR diagnosis. That damn software is like auto shop for dummies. It not only describes the problem but even gives you a full color picture of the problem area.
What a coincidence, I got the same warning lights when I drove my car harshly the other day. The washer fluid and coolant were low. The problem is that the washer fluid was really low while the coolant was 1/2 to 3/4 full.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dkflipse
My dash had warning lights for both low washer fluid and low coolant - even though both were full. I had an indy mechanic run a STAR diagnosis. That damn software is like auto shop for dummies. It not only describes the problem but even gives you a full color picture of the problem area.
First thing to do is replace both sensors. They are run in series to the SAM and one going bad can mimic the other one bad. I'm not sure if it can also confuse the SAM but I'd be damned sure it wasn't just a sensor before ripping into the SAM.

It might be the difference between an indy with a Star diag and a dealer with the experience to interpret the results correctly.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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I hope my SAM isn't going on me. I had the low cooling and low washer fluid warnings. Once I filled the washer they both wend away.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:09 PM
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Too Clever

The series sensors are a great example of a clever solution to eliminate one wire and save about $1 in production costs that has cost owners untold thousands in extraneous repairs.

The "clever" engineering: to signal low, one sensor goes to a high resistance while the other goes to a low resistance. Because not-low is zero resistance, the SAM just measures the non-zero resistance to figure which reservoir is low.

The real-world problem: when a sensor goes bad it can take on any resistance when low or not low, meaning that the problem often gets misdiagnosed.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by whoover
The series sensors are a great example of a clever solution to eliminate one wire and save about $1 in production costs that has cost owners untold thousands in extraneous repairs.

The "clever" engineering: to signal low, one sensor goes to a high resistance while the other goes to a low resistance. Because not-low is zero resistance, the SAM just measures the non-zero resistance to figure which reservoir is low.

The real-world problem: when a sensor goes bad it can take on any resistance when low or not low, meaning that the problem often gets misdiagnosed.
Thank you, this is some really good information. With mine the coolant sensor was replaced but you are saying the washer sensor may be bad and sending the wrong resistance back to the SAM. So I should get the washer sensor replaced then empty the washer fluid to see if it trips the coolant low warning.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kevkranker
Thank you, this is some really good information. With mine the coolant sensor was replaced but you are saying the washer sensor may be bad and sending the wrong resistance back to the SAM. So I should get the washer sensor replaced then empty the washer fluid to see if it trips the coolant low warning.
Exactly. Always replace these sensors together.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:43 PM
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make sure to get 05+ front SAM...
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 02:53 PM
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I just replaced the front SAM for a 2001 C240 at Helms Brothers Mercedes in Queens New York today. The part costs $391.68, and 3 hours labor at $110 per hour. I had a problem starting the car. It would intermittantly have no crank at all. Then after inserting and removing the smartkey a few times it would crankup and start perfectly. One time it started up just fine but would not let me shift out of park after I pressed the brake. I also got an ABS and low brake lining warning light. I hope the new SAM solves the problem. So far so good.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 02:56 PM
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front SAM install shouldn't take more than 30min...
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack_2001C240
I just replaced the front SAM for a 2001 C240 at Helms Brothers Mercedes in Queens New York today. The part costs $391.68, and 3 hours labor at $110 per hour. I had a problem starting the car. It would intermittantly have no crank at all. Then after inserting and removing the smartkey a few times it would crankup and start perfectly. One time it started up just fine but would not let me shift out of park after I pressed the brake. I also got an ABS and low brake lining warning light. I hope the new SAM solves the problem. So far so good.
If it doesn't go away, it's probably your CPS Crank Position Sensor. They go bad so often, my mechanic keeps one in stock at all times.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 03:52 PM
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I DON'T COME HERE ANYMORE
I always make sure my crank is to the left No sensor needed :lol:
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