SilverBulletAMG

After reading this thread and the links within, I'm beginning to worry about boost leak with my setup. Is this a big enough issue to warrant tearing it down, getting new cork gaskets, and a can of Gasgacinch (never heard of it but trust Splinter and will grab a can) and starting from scratch?
I have the LET spacers and some sort of thin wimpy gaskets. Come to think of it, I was told by the shop last time it was there I may need my head gaskets replaced soon. I wonder if it's not blow by from not having a good enough seal?

Koru_Kinshi

You have a website or link where I can pick up these wonderful gaskets?

SilverBulletAMG

Post #12 above.

Koru_Kinshi

Thanks. They sell an intake, too???

SilverBulletAMG

I'm pretty sure the intake is just for the SRT boys.

c32used

I think as long as you install the regular gaskets you are ok. But if you wish to feel better then get the Needswings cork gasket and start over. I have not heard of boost leak to be very prominent while having the MB steel or NW cork gaskets. I just chose the NW cork gasket alone since I believe my car runs pretty cool anyways.

c32AMG-DTM

+1

I'm on the OEM gaskets with phenolic spacers, and datalogged 20.7 PSI of boost at the track last year. So if I was leaking boost, it must've been pretty minimal

If I was doing the install again today, I'd use the NW gaskets - but not sure I'd tear it apart and reinstall with 'em unless there was a symptom/reason to do so... JMHO.

c32used

Hey what datalogger are you using? With my setup I would like to know mine.

jturkel

excellent writeup, overdrive!

i was looking for a DIY for removing the manifolds next week so i can install a new product () and this is perfect! much appreciated!

ALSO, does ANYONE know the IAT sensor location? Is it at the intercooler y-pipe?

ML500K

Yep!

jturkel

thank you!

racerxoffl

I know its a crazy old thread.

http://racerx.4nracing.com/w203/SpacersInstall/

Is what mine looked like, after years of knowing my IC is bad I can say nothing "bad" has happened yet.

I was one of the "lucky" ones to buy the C3P IC and send it back many times. Brandon finally "made it right" so no complaints there.

I am only posting because my C3P supplied boost pipes gave out yesterday and I hoped someone had posted their dimensions so I don't have to wait for cooldown to source some boost pipe today.

I will follow up later today when I have them replaced.

Don

amgstyle

i saw your pics and that's what in manifold and the inlets before the valves look like. i'm about to replace my intercooler soon but was wondering wat you used to clean all the gunk off. wat type of cleaner and wat brushes or tools worked best? thanks

racerxoffl

I must say, doing it at home is no fun.

I used "greased lighting" and limited amounts of brake clean trying to be environmentally friendly. I also used a nylon cooking scraper, razor blades, and brass wire brushes. I then disposed of the bucket of slime at my local auto parts store, not before I stepped in it one night rummaging through the garage (what finally motivated me to go dump it) yes barefoot.

Now then if you can take them to a shop and use a parts washer you will not slice the crap outa your fingers.

BTW to all the people who say: YOU MUST HAVE 3.375 ID tube you are incorrect.

I was able to push 2.25 on FINE and if anything it fits snugly, and tapers closer to the ID of the pipes.







Edit:

Nothing but paper towels were used down the runners towards the valves, and then vacuumed and last blown out with compressed air. If you do clean to that extent turn the motor over by hand so nothing enters the cylinders.

King320

So I have this Friday off and I'm thinking about cleaning out my intake manifold gaskets. After doing my reading on the subject, I'm comfortable with the actual manifolds since they'll be off the car, but I'm nervous about cleaning the actual ports that go down into the valves.

For those of you who have done this before, how did you keep gunk from falling down into the valves and into the cylinders? Some muscle car forums have said to hand turn the engine until your desired valve is closed, but this apparently would require removing the plugs.

I would like to clean this out before a piece of it breaks off on it's own and gets in the cylinders, but I don't want to make a mess of things. Any advice?

Edit: I know OP addressed this issue by saying he was just very careful to clean from the bottom of the port to the top, but I'm wondering if there is a safer way. I can just see myself knocking some of at junk into the engine.

francoisisp

ok from what i remember when i did mine when you clean it, its more like a pasty substance thats if you have a leaking IC of course but for me i used carb cleaner, damn the rag in cleaning compount and go from there if you make a mess use a vacum to suck the sluff out, good luck if your cleaning make sure you buy a 12 pack before cause you might need it while you are doing the cleaning.

King320

I asked my mechanic about this and he said doing a BG fuel service should burn all the gunk out of the engine including the intake manifold. Thoughts?

Newzchspy

I was never a big believer in the phenolics since temperature equilibrium eventually negates their effectiveness on multiple hard runs. However, now that they're installed on the C32, I must say that the results are interesting. After a long hard drive home, I can still touch the intake on the car and they are warm to the touch. Previously, they had to cool for an hour before this was possible. So, do they make a difference, I dunno, BUT in my case, they do appear to have worked. FWIW, I used the Needswings gaskets and Code 3 phenolics. I know the old E55 guys swore by them and I am becoming a believer. Anything to insulate the heat source would have to help.

fleishman

boo why cant I see the pictures in the original DIY?

Jacob Goodapple

Bringing this back from the dead...

I have seen extended bolts sold for use with the phenolic spacers, but I didn't see anyone mention them within this (very useful) thread. Any input there?