DIY: Phenolic Spacers and Gaskets
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Volvo
DIY: Phenolic Spacers and Gaskets
This weekend, since it was “O.K” weather in the bay area, I decided to install the Needwings Gaskets, I also have the Code 3 Phenolic Spacers and during this DIY, I will show you how to install them. I am no way a mechanic and I am not ASE certified, I am a Computer Engineer who’s pretty handy with tools. Do this at your own risk as I take no responsibility on what you do, I simply posted this as a guide with pictures.
I wasn't sure if there was a DIY so i made one anyway
Tools Needed:
1. Torx 30 Driver
2. 7mm 3/8 Socket
3. 3/8 Socket Wrench
4. Small Flashlight
5. Maybe a Flathead
6. Your gaskets or Phenolic Spacers
Open the Hood, Remove the Top Cover (The one with the Mercedes logo on it) Lift on both sides (They are Clips holding it in) Don't just yank it off or you will break the clips
Now its time to take off the Air boxes/Intake. First undo the clip at the back of the air box on the "Y Splitter"
Then there are 2-3 clips holding the air box in place, Give a little force and yank up the 2 air boxes like so.
Pull both air boxes out
Now it’s time to remove the "Y Splitter" From the Throttle Body
First there are 2 clips holding this black Y-Splitter in.
1 on the top Right, The other on the bottom of the "Y Spliter" on the left.
Note: This is a very tight space, and getting this piece out is a PITA, Be careful not to Break the tabs off the "Y Splitter" It takes some time to get it out.
Located the bolts on the left and right manifold, Use your Torx 30 Driver and carefully start to unfasten the bolts. (I took all the bolts out because when it came time to remove the intake manifolds they kept trying to thread themselves back in)
Note: The bolts are different sizes, The Bolts closest to the firewall are the longer ones, There are a medium sizes ones that go in the middle and the short ones go into the closest ones to you while you working, Do not Mix Them up.
Look behind the throttle body, You will notice at the end of each intake manifold there is a tube that goes down to a Y Splitter below the throttle body. You will also notice that each manifold on the y-splitter has a clip holding it in. You now need to use your 7mm Socket with your Socket Wrench and unscrew the 2 Bolts closest to the manifolds.
Note: It is a tight fit but very possible to unscrew them, You may need to move the gray line (Shown in pictures) to get to it. You do not need to screw them all the way, just enough so the clip is loose.
Once both clips are loose, Remove the intake manifolds, I found it is easier to lift them from the front and pull up and wiggle it out from the rubber connector from the back. May need a few tugs.
Note: Please make sure you have nothing loose on you like a ring or anything that can fall off. Make sure all screws are undone.
You now have part of your intake Valves exposed. Please keep anything loose or that can fall out keep away from the intake holes. Do not drop anything in there or you will have to disassemble your engine even further.......
Since they are exposed, I Put a couple shop Towels in each hole to plug them up.
Continued on Post 2
I wasn't sure if there was a DIY so i made one anyway
Tools Needed:
1. Torx 30 Driver
2. 7mm 3/8 Socket
3. 3/8 Socket Wrench
4. Small Flashlight
5. Maybe a Flathead
6. Your gaskets or Phenolic Spacers
Open the Hood, Remove the Top Cover (The one with the Mercedes logo on it) Lift on both sides (They are Clips holding it in) Don't just yank it off or you will break the clips
Now its time to take off the Air boxes/Intake. First undo the clip at the back of the air box on the "Y Splitter"
Then there are 2-3 clips holding the air box in place, Give a little force and yank up the 2 air boxes like so.
Pull both air boxes out
Now it’s time to remove the "Y Splitter" From the Throttle Body
First there are 2 clips holding this black Y-Splitter in.
1 on the top Right, The other on the bottom of the "Y Spliter" on the left.
Note: This is a very tight space, and getting this piece out is a PITA, Be careful not to Break the tabs off the "Y Splitter" It takes some time to get it out.
Located the bolts on the left and right manifold, Use your Torx 30 Driver and carefully start to unfasten the bolts. (I took all the bolts out because when it came time to remove the intake manifolds they kept trying to thread themselves back in)
Note: The bolts are different sizes, The Bolts closest to the firewall are the longer ones, There are a medium sizes ones that go in the middle and the short ones go into the closest ones to you while you working, Do not Mix Them up.
Look behind the throttle body, You will notice at the end of each intake manifold there is a tube that goes down to a Y Splitter below the throttle body. You will also notice that each manifold on the y-splitter has a clip holding it in. You now need to use your 7mm Socket with your Socket Wrench and unscrew the 2 Bolts closest to the manifolds.
Note: It is a tight fit but very possible to unscrew them, You may need to move the gray line (Shown in pictures) to get to it. You do not need to screw them all the way, just enough so the clip is loose.
Once both clips are loose, Remove the intake manifolds, I found it is easier to lift them from the front and pull up and wiggle it out from the rubber connector from the back. May need a few tugs.
Note: Please make sure you have nothing loose on you like a ring or anything that can fall off. Make sure all screws are undone.
You now have part of your intake Valves exposed. Please keep anything loose or that can fall out keep away from the intake holes. Do not drop anything in there or you will have to disassemble your engine even further.......
Since they are exposed, I Put a couple shop Towels in each hole to plug them up.
Continued on Post 2
Last edited by OverDrive; 03-02-2009 at 07:59 PM.
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Now that you have your manifolds off, there are a couple things you can do...
When I took mine off I notice inside manifolds they were very gunky, (Only have 45k on the motor at the time of this post)
Now some of this is due to the PCV (Blow by Oil) being sucked through the Throttle body to the supercharger and compressing it in the intake manifolds. There is another DIY posted by another member here for a small solution on fixing some of this oil buildup. https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...n-c32-diy.html
Other than that my valves look like they were brand new as you can see in the photo. Since I had both manifolds off, I took the liberty to clean all the crap out and cleaned up the some of the gunk around the valves.
Cleaned Manifolds
After both were cleaned, I went ahead and opened up my gaskets and started to install them. I installed these gaskets because I read after 14.5 psi there are small boost leaks, and plus I’m installing Phenolic spacers so why not just buy new gaskets. Now each manufacture is different on the Phenolic spacers. On the Code 3 there thick, So they provide you with 2 new bolts and 2 spacers for the bolts. Pretty easy to figure out.
Line up the gaskets or spacers so they are aligned with the holes. Don't foget to remove the plugs or (Shop towls in my case) on the intake holes, before installing.
Note: I did not install my Code 3's Due to I’m having my manifolds redone coming up, and will use them after. Personally I think what I did with mine are good enough and really no need for the code 3’s.
Reinstall the manifolds, Be careful and make sure you line up the bolts and they thread in correctly. For tightening, (Not sure if there is a TQ spec on them) mine were pretty loose when I took them off, I tighten them Hand tight then 1/2 turn more. Make sure you tighten them like you would with tightening a rim lug nuts (Star Pattern). Do the DIY in reverse order to reinstalling everything...
For those who are intrested, I made my own Code 3 style Intake a while back for less then $10.00
Hepa Filter (3 layers) - $6.00
Small Mesh - $3.00
Enjoy
When I took mine off I notice inside manifolds they were very gunky, (Only have 45k on the motor at the time of this post)
Now some of this is due to the PCV (Blow by Oil) being sucked through the Throttle body to the supercharger and compressing it in the intake manifolds. There is another DIY posted by another member here for a small solution on fixing some of this oil buildup. https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...n-c32-diy.html
Other than that my valves look like they were brand new as you can see in the photo. Since I had both manifolds off, I took the liberty to clean all the crap out and cleaned up the some of the gunk around the valves.
Cleaned Manifolds
After both were cleaned, I went ahead and opened up my gaskets and started to install them. I installed these gaskets because I read after 14.5 psi there are small boost leaks, and plus I’m installing Phenolic spacers so why not just buy new gaskets. Now each manufacture is different on the Phenolic spacers. On the Code 3 there thick, So they provide you with 2 new bolts and 2 spacers for the bolts. Pretty easy to figure out.
Line up the gaskets or spacers so they are aligned with the holes. Don't foget to remove the plugs or (Shop towls in my case) on the intake holes, before installing.
Note: I did not install my Code 3's Due to I’m having my manifolds redone coming up, and will use them after. Personally I think what I did with mine are good enough and really no need for the code 3’s.
Reinstall the manifolds, Be careful and make sure you line up the bolts and they thread in correctly. For tightening, (Not sure if there is a TQ spec on them) mine were pretty loose when I took them off, I tighten them Hand tight then 1/2 turn more. Make sure you tighten them like you would with tightening a rim lug nuts (Star Pattern). Do the DIY in reverse order to reinstalling everything...
For those who are intrested, I made my own Code 3 style Intake a while back for less then $10.00
Hepa Filter (3 layers) - $6.00
Small Mesh - $3.00
Enjoy
Last edited by OverDrive; 03-02-2009 at 07:56 PM.
#4
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Great write-up and photos! - this will prove very useful to those installing spacers and / or gaskets.
I hope I'm wrong, but I think you have a touch of Leaky-Intercooler-itis.
Check out the caked solid on the sides of your intake walls in this photo:
I hope I'm wrong, but I think you have a touch of Leaky-Intercooler-itis.
Check out the caked solid on the sides of your intake walls in this photo:
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[QUOTE=boohooramblers;3387285]Great write-up and photos! - this will prove very useful to those installing spacers and / or gaskets.
I hope I'm wrong, but I think you have a touch of Leaky-Intercooler-itis.
Check out the caked solid on the sides of your intake walls in this photo:
QUOTE]
Yep thats part of it some of that is the pcv oil mixing as well... Almost looks like clogged arteries for a car... I cleaned all that out while i was doing this diy, Another mod... Maybe a diy for that coming up for the s/c intercooler... depends when i get the part
I hope I'm wrong, but I think you have a touch of Leaky-Intercooler-itis.
Check out the caked solid on the sides of your intake walls in this photo:
QUOTE]
Yep thats part of it some of that is the pcv oil mixing as well... Almost looks like clogged arteries for a car... I cleaned all that out while i was doing this diy, Another mod... Maybe a diy for that coming up for the s/c intercooler... depends when i get the part
Last edited by OverDrive; 03-02-2009 at 08:25 PM.
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#9
Good write up and good call not overtightening the bolts. I snapped one of mine using a cheap torque wrench. Luckily for me I only snapped the bolt and didn't have to break out the tap and die set!
Last edited by hkycoldrct; 03-02-2009 at 10:04 PM.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
I got the LET spacers. Do I need to buy another gasket? I see 2 in the picture and I know LET doesn't give one...
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes with all PHENOLIC SPACERS you will need a total of 4 gaskets. One below and one above the plate.
By the way, the MB gasket is a stamped embossed steel gasket, where did you get the cork gaskets
I personnaly would have PREFERED the cork, but have just NEVER seen them before.
See yeah
PS: GREAT DIY wite to the OP
By the way, the MB gasket is a stamped embossed steel gasket, where did you get the cork gaskets
I personnaly would have PREFERED the cork, but have just NEVER seen them before.
See yeah
PS: GREAT DIY wite to the OP
#12
Senior Member
Yes with all PHENOLIC SPACERS you will need a total of 4 gaskets. One below and one above the plate.
By the way, the MB gasket is a stamped embossed steel gasket, where did you get the cork gaskets
I personnaly would have PREFERED the cork, but have just NEVER seen them before.
See yeah
PS: GREAT DIY wite to the OP
By the way, the MB gasket is a stamped embossed steel gasket, where did you get the cork gaskets
I personnaly would have PREFERED the cork, but have just NEVER seen them before.
See yeah
PS: GREAT DIY wite to the OP
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2002 SLK 32 AMG
overdrive, wat did you use to clean up that caked solid on the sides or your intake walls? i have the same problem but didn't know wat to use to clean it up. while cleaning it, wat did you do so that some of that gunk didn't fall into where the valves are?? thanks and great write up
also wat did you use to clean up the intake manifolds??
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Lets see, Well i had some seafoam so I got my shop towel a little damp with seafoam and was very careful started from the bottom of the runners and rubbed up (Its not flakey just gooey). As for the Intake Manifolds, I used a bunch of Simple green and a powerful garden hose and washed/rub all the gunk out. After I put both the intake manifolds in the oven at 350 Degrees for 10 mins to be sure all the water was out. Both Turned out great
#17
Phenolics
Originally Posted by c32used;3387504[B
]Wow thanks Overdrive I have the Needswings gasket also and wanted to do a DIY. THANKS for you thread.
Yes, Vic, BUt you sold me your LET Spacers, so how is that going to work
Glenn
** BTW, NICE DIY for the /phenolics/gaskets!!! Can't wait to install Vic's, I mean MINE!!!
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01 slk320, 01 e55, 02 c32, 06 ml500
hello, just found the thread, the picture here...
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...44b969ad4bbdbd
shows you are using the oem mercedes gaskets also. DO NOT do that, its defeating the purpose of getting rid of the oem gaskets, with phenolics it should go from top down...
intake manifold plenums
cork/rubber gasket
phenolic spacers
cork/rubber gasket
intake runner mating surface
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...44b969ad4bbdbd
shows you are using the oem mercedes gaskets also. DO NOT do that, its defeating the purpose of getting rid of the oem gaskets, with phenolics it should go from top down...
intake manifold plenums
cork/rubber gasket
phenolic spacers
cork/rubber gasket
intake runner mating surface
#22
hello, just found the thread, the picture here...
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...44b969ad4bbdbd
shows you are using the oem mercedes gaskets also. DO NOT do that, its defeating the purpose of getting rid of the oem gaskets, with phenolics it should go from top down...
intake manifold plenums
cork/rubber gasket
phenolic spacers
cork/rubber gasket
intake runner mating surface
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...44b969ad4bbdbd
shows you are using the oem mercedes gaskets also. DO NOT do that, its defeating the purpose of getting rid of the oem gaskets, with phenolics it should go from top down...
intake manifold plenums
cork/rubber gasket
phenolic spacers
cork/rubber gasket
intake runner mating surface
1. intake manifold plenums
2. cork/rubber gasket
3. intake runner mating surface
#23
Sorry just saw this...I am only installing the cork/rubber gasket...it alone helps against boost bleeding out and the phenolic spacers well its harder to control the boost bleeding out with those on but not impossible to reduce boost bleeding so I opted to just go with the rubber/cork Needsings gasket alone to minimize boost bleeding the most.
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01 slk320, 01 e55, 02 c32, 06 ml500
correct, spraying the top of the gasket with some 3m super77 and letting it tack for a minute and then sticking them to the underside of the manifold plenum is the way to go
#25
Super Moderator
3M’s Super 77 serves its purpose admirably in the construction trades; its intended use.
Some utilize the superior sealing characteristics of Gasgacinch. Eases disassembly and reinstallation preparations on subsequent teardowns, too. First used it to successfully seal the pressurized cases on a Hodaka Super Rat in ‘72 - at ten.
It’s rightfully earned its place in my consumables cabinet ever since.
http://www.gasgacinch.com/gasgacinch_003.htm
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&autoview=sku