Koru_Kinshi

2nd gen pulley from jturkel. Now I know the 3rd gen is out, but I'd rather save the $200. :P

So...

How much do I torque the SC pulley to put it back on? I know it's supposedly really low or something. Around 20 ft lbs? Also, what would I use to torque it that gently???

Gramma_Benz

http://www.code3performance.com/C32/install/pulley_install.html

And a Torque Wrench...

Have fun!! Did you get the intake too? That helps a lot too.

Koru_Kinshi

I already looked at that. It doesn't give specifications as to how much you torque the bolt. Oh, and I didn't get the Code 3 intake at the risk it's going to be too loud. I intend to get an SL 55 intake, though if I can find one at a decent price.

Edit: I'm blind. I saw it. 20 Nm. Isn't that a bit...'soft'? Sounds like barely hand tight.

TemjinX2

you dont want to risk breaking the bolt.

Gramma_Benz

Yup, numerous people have broken the bolt as it's OEM hollow to keep people from over torquing the bolt.

BTW, I loved the supercharger whine, I wish I had it back. I even took out the hood molding towards the rear firewall to allow heat to escape and get more cold air(Cowl Induction) and it was super loud at first, but then I got to love the sound. And interestingly enough, I found that the Code3 intake had much better throttle response although less overall power than the SL55 intake.

jturkel

+1 to all of this.....code3 had better throttle response and low end power. i was able to chirp the tires much easier. sl55 makes more power overall though.

Koru_Kinshi: Have you finished installing it yet? results? hopefully the s/c pulley came in one piece. i wrapped it carefully.

SilverBulletAMG

Too loud?!lol Never. The sound is the reason I'm sticking with the C3P intake over any other option out there. I will gladly sacrifice a few ponies up top for the fantastic "overall" sound and throttle response.

c32used

I love your sig video

Did you Dyno your car I thought it showed track time prior? Because now it shows power at the wheel

Koru_Kinshi

Not yet. I need to buy some Torx. I'm also leery about the whole 20 Nm thing. I know it's roughly 14.75 ft-lbs of torque, but you can't 'measure' that on a torque wrench with a gauge. Will 15 ft-lbs kill it?

Also, doesn't the SL 55 intake make the car sound burly as well, or no? On the flip side, will having K&N/Green filters comboes with the Code 3 cause issues with anything?

Decisions, decisions...more power, or more sound...

jturkel

it did show track time....but a member asked if that reflected my new setup, which is does not....i picked up at least 2 CLs on a VERY strong manual LS1 camaro with full exhaust (long tubes, y-pipe, catback) and lid.....Mike (hooley) can vouch for how fast that car is

i havent been to the track recently but will hopefully go soon to update ETA/traps though conditions (temps, DA) will be quite different

14.75 is right. i know it sounds weird, but it is.

yes the SL55 sounds deeper, more burly. you can here more sound with the code3. more s/c whine....almost cobra like when you take of the weather stripping/molding that lines the top of the firewall. i ran K&Ns in my C32 AMG AirBoxes with the C32 amg intake setup with no problem. its all good get that pulley on there! you should be ok with 15 ft/lbs

Gramma_Benz

Actually, you just need a smaller calibrated torque wrench. some go from 5-50 ft lbs, so start out at 0 foot lbs. Sears makes some pretty cheap $25 ones that start from zero and go up in 2.5 increments. Or, maybe just check with a couple friends and see if they have any that are set to measure smaller increments.

And yes, the SL55 intake sounds burley, but has about 1/10th the amount of S/C whine as the Code3 did.

Koru_Kinshi

I still need to buy an SL 55 setup. I think I'll take burly & powerful over throttle & banshee. :p

jturkel

you install the pulley yet?

jagass

I know there's a specific amount of torque to apply...Of course use torque wrench...

Koru_Kinshi

Doing it tonight. Still a bit uneasy about the torque thing, and I was recommended to use something called Loctite, so...going to do that too.

SilverBulletAMG

NO! Don't use Loctite. No need for it and you stand a chance of breaking the head the next time you go to remove it. Don't worry about it coming lose. It is fragile, but it's not made of glass. The directions give a specific number for a reason. Crank it to 15 and be done with it.

jturkel

no need for loctite. thats only for stuff like the idler pulley or crank pulley. 14.75 ft/lbs and call it a day

boohooramblers

I gave him that controversial recommendation - here's my rationale (and I may be wrong):

I'm of the opinion that conservative use of Loctite Blue 242 is ok when the bolt is tightened exactly to the torque specified - any time I've reinstalled my clutch bolt, and then gone about removing it, the extra torquing required to free the bolt has been negligible.
The bolt is torqued to 14.75 ft-lb. This is really best done with an inch-lb scale torque wrench (177 in-lb).
I use aircraft paint remover to get rid of the old Loctite when I want to clean the thread up.

Then again, if we were doing this by the book, we shouldn't be reusing the old bolt. Supposedly an M8 1.25 x 25mm hardened steel bolt does the job, but I'd rather find an exact replacement.

This bolt was never designed by MB to be removed and reinstalled (as you know, you cannot just purchase a new clutch!).
Due to the material comprising that particular bolt (hollow, etc.), I maintain that every time it is torqued to tighten (or remove), it is deformed ever so slightly.
I certainly wouldn't want to take chances reinstalling an old (and possibly deformed) bolt onto a clutch assembly that rotates at speeds in excess of 14,000 rpm.

CLKCLK

Whether you break or not to break the bolt, it’s just hard to see and I can’t believe you hold it that long jk…