The jerk has returned.
#1
![Angry](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif)
I had about 15 days to savor my "fixed" C32 before the jerk returned completely. At first just the really slow speed awkward scenario jerk was there. Then the slow way down then speed way up jerk returned. Now the stop and go at a moderate pace jerk has returned to me today. Same old story, 1500-2000 rpm in 2nd gear=jerk.
I guess I could go back to my dealer, but what's the point. Perhaps I could work on a lemon law suit against MB. However, considering my car works as pure transportation and that other C32s have this problem I'm afraid they'd chalk this up to "normal behavior".
The only think I know for sure is that I have a $50K Mercedes Benz that drives worse than any other car I've ever owned: from $15K domestic crap to $75K BMW bliss.
I think I will just cut my losses and either tough out the remaining term on my lease or give in and trade it away before my lease is up (and get pounded by depreciation). Either way, after that I'll never buy another MB product. I never would have suspected design and engineering would be their fatal flaw
I guess I could go back to my dealer, but what's the point. Perhaps I could work on a lemon law suit against MB. However, considering my car works as pure transportation and that other C32s have this problem I'm afraid they'd chalk this up to "normal behavior".
The only think I know for sure is that I have a $50K Mercedes Benz that drives worse than any other car I've ever owned: from $15K domestic crap to $75K BMW bliss.
I think I will just cut my losses and either tough out the remaining term on my lease or give in and trade it away before my lease is up (and get pounded by depreciation). Either way, after that I'll never buy another MB product. I never would have suspected design and engineering would be their fatal flaw
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Last edited by Lou Zer; 02-11-2003 at 01:17 AM.
#3
I'm sorry to hear about that Lou Zer. If it makes you feel any better I still have that same jerk even after I updated to the '03 module. Haven't heard from my service guy in awhile after letting him know the problem wasn't fixed. I guess it's a little bit better than before but the only time I don't feel it is if I brake or accelerate harder than normal. In traffic, however, the jerk never fails
. I'm still going to try to get it fixed. Not optimistic anymore but I have this car for another 3 years so might as well.
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#4
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2002 C32 and 1999 F-150 Lightning
I'm sorry to hear that Lou...I'm actually picking up my car today (hopefully) from an A service and fixing the tranny problem. My service writer said the tech performed some adaptations whatever that means. We'll see I guess.
#5
Thanks for the consolation. I've been thinking this over and come to these conclusions:
1) Aggressive driving=adapted jerk. The jerk didn't reappear consistently till after this weekend. This weekend I did some aggressive driving making use of the manumatic to keep the rev's up. Mind you this was on public roads in traffic so it wasn't that aggressive.
2) Disconnecting the battery will reset me to no jerk. The only thing different between my most recent repair attempt and the previous repair attempt is I know for sure they disconnected the battery this time. I had to reset my clock etc. I have read here that disconnecting the battery will clear out the "adaptations".
So does anyone know if I need to remove the ground cable on the battery or is there a more convenient fuse I can pull. I plan to reset the adaptations and try again. This time I'll baby the $%^& out of my $50K uber sedan for 1K miles and see if the stupid $%^& thing gets the picture: NO MORE JERKING!
P.S. I got a new car survey from MB in the mail recently. I've been holding off on filling it out. Guess what grades I'll be giving my C32
1) Aggressive driving=adapted jerk. The jerk didn't reappear consistently till after this weekend. This weekend I did some aggressive driving making use of the manumatic to keep the rev's up. Mind you this was on public roads in traffic so it wasn't that aggressive.
2) Disconnecting the battery will reset me to no jerk. The only thing different between my most recent repair attempt and the previous repair attempt is I know for sure they disconnected the battery this time. I had to reset my clock etc. I have read here that disconnecting the battery will clear out the "adaptations".
So does anyone know if I need to remove the ground cable on the battery or is there a more convenient fuse I can pull. I plan to reset the adaptations and try again. This time I'll baby the $%^& out of my $50K uber sedan for 1K miles and see if the stupid $%^& thing gets the picture: NO MORE JERKING!
P.S. I got a new car survey from MB in the mail recently. I've been holding off on filling it out. Guess what grades I'll be giving my C32
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#6
It gets better:
The car will now jerk in 3rd gear too (same rpm window) and my BAS/ESP visit workshop light came on AGAIN today![Mad](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
I think it's time I contact my state's attorney general and see what my options are.
The car will now jerk in 3rd gear too (same rpm window) and my BAS/ESP visit workshop light came on AGAIN today
![Mad](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
I think it's time I contact my state's attorney general and see what my options are.
#7
Thought I'd pop in and give everyone a teaser. My car is in the shop now. In fact it has been for more than a week
The long and short of it is that I'm waiting on parts back ordered from the Father Land. The repair regiment is a bit different this time than in that past, and different than any that I've seen posted here. Once things are wrapped up I'll post here with more info and results.
It's a shame MB has made it so hard to get my problem addressed. My dealership has been very persistent in working on this problem. But to hear them tell it, they have run into many problems getting a straight story from MB about what the problem is and what to do to address it.
In light of this, I just passed up on my wife's first choice for a new car, a new SLK. Instead we went with her second choice, a new Infiniti G35C. I just can't afford to have all my eggs in the MB basket.
Watch this space for updates.
![Mad](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
It's a shame MB has made it so hard to get my problem addressed. My dealership has been very persistent in working on this problem. But to hear them tell it, they have run into many problems getting a straight story from MB about what the problem is and what to do to address it.
In light of this, I just passed up on my wife's first choice for a new car, a new SLK. Instead we went with her second choice, a new Infiniti G35C. I just can't afford to have all my eggs in the MB basket.
Watch this space for updates.
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#9
I did get a E320 for a loaner. It's not bad, but it sure isn't a C32 either ![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Well, I actually got the car back ahead of schedule today. I've only driven it home from the deale,r but so far so good. Later on I'll post the full list of repairs, but sufice to say for now it's two pages long.
The gist of it is shipping out my transmission control module, to Baltimore I believe, for referbishing of some sort coupled with opening up the transmission and replacring some parts. The valve that the ECU uses to control lock up appears to have been redesigned.
Well, crossing my fingers that this fix will have staying power.
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Well, I actually got the car back ahead of schedule today. I've only driven it home from the deale,r but so far so good. Later on I'll post the full list of repairs, but sufice to say for now it's two pages long.
The gist of it is shipping out my transmission control module, to Baltimore I believe, for referbishing of some sort coupled with opening up the transmission and replacring some parts. The valve that the ECU uses to control lock up appears to have been redesigned.
Well, crossing my fingers that this fix will have staying power.
#11
Ok here is the complete run down as a service to folks here on the board:
BAS/ESP Light (2nd repair)
Code C1185 after short test. Checked values. Membrane travel sensor not reading correctly. Removed master cylinder, replaced sensor, reassembled, and tested. Also replaced SOP retainer (this is just a lock clip, not related to my problems).
Transmission Jerk Cause:
Valve Body (Electro-Hydr.), R & R / Repl.
Control Module - for electronic transmission (722.6), Repl.
Automatic transmission Electronic Shift Adaptation, Perf.
Electrical System, Test
1 211-270-00-06 Valve Gear
1 030-545-30-32 Switch
4 001-989-21-03-10 Trans fluid
1 140-271-00-80 Gasket, trans
1 140-991-00-55 Lock pin.
So that's it in a nutshell. So far the car has been jerk free. In addition it is much more responsive. There is no more "slack take-up" when I get on the gas as there was before. It's lead to a couple of embarrassing but enjoyable tire squealing turns. Now the $50,000 question is will it stay that way.
BAS/ESP Light (2nd repair)
Code C1185 after short test. Checked values. Membrane travel sensor not reading correctly. Removed master cylinder, replaced sensor, reassembled, and tested. Also replaced SOP retainer (this is just a lock clip, not related to my problems).
Transmission Jerk Cause:
Valve Body (Electro-Hydr.), R & R / Repl.
Control Module - for electronic transmission (722.6), Repl.
Automatic transmission Electronic Shift Adaptation, Perf.
Electrical System, Test
1 211-270-00-06 Valve Gear
1 030-545-30-32 Switch
4 001-989-21-03-10 Trans fluid
1 140-271-00-80 Gasket, trans
1 140-991-00-55 Lock pin.
So that's it in a nutshell. So far the car has been jerk free. In addition it is much more responsive. There is no more "slack take-up" when I get on the gas as there was before. It's lead to a couple of embarrassing but enjoyable tire squealing turns. Now the $50,000 question is will it stay that way.
#13
![Unhappy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/icons/icon9.gif)
Wow, it took all of 3 days for my BAS/ESP malfunction to come back. Pathetic, just pathetic. Anyone who has had this error successfully resolved care to fill me in on what needs to be done, please? On the plus side my transmission remains very responsive and smooth. We'll see how long that lasts too
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
#14
Trans Jerk
Ok here is the complete run down as a service to folks here on the board:
BAS/ESP Light (2nd repair)
Code C1185 after short test. Checked values. Membrane travel sensor not reading correctly. Removed master cylinder, replaced sensor, reassembled, and tested. Also replaced SOP retainer (this is just a lock clip, not related to my problems).
Transmission Jerk Cause:
Valve Body (Electro-Hydr.), R & R / Repl.
Control Module - for electronic transmission (722.6), Repl.
Automatic transmission Electronic Shift Adaptation, Perf.
Electrical System, Test
1 211-270-00-06 Valve Gear
1 030-545-30-32 Switch
4 001-989-21-03-10 Trans fluid
1 140-271-00-80 Gasket, trans
1 140-991-00-55 Lock pin.
So that's it in a nutshell. So far the car has been jerk free. In addition it is much more responsive. There is no more "slack take-up" when I get on the gas as there was before. It's lead to a couple of embarrassing but enjoyable tire squealing turns. Now the $50,000 question is will it stay that way.
BAS/ESP Light (2nd repair)
Code C1185 after short test. Checked values. Membrane travel sensor not reading correctly. Removed master cylinder, replaced sensor, reassembled, and tested. Also replaced SOP retainer (this is just a lock clip, not related to my problems).
Transmission Jerk Cause:
Valve Body (Electro-Hydr.), R & R / Repl.
Control Module - for electronic transmission (722.6), Repl.
Automatic transmission Electronic Shift Adaptation, Perf.
Electrical System, Test
1 211-270-00-06 Valve Gear
1 030-545-30-32 Switch
4 001-989-21-03-10 Trans fluid
1 140-271-00-80 Gasket, trans
1 140-991-00-55 Lock pin.
So that's it in a nutshell. So far the car has been jerk free. In addition it is much more responsive. There is no more "slack take-up" when I get on the gas as there was before. It's lead to a couple of embarrassing but enjoyable tire squealing turns. Now the $50,000 question is will it stay that way.
#15
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W203, W211, W219, W212
My dealer has changed all the parts mentioned above about a year ago. It was a smooth sail until the jerk came back a few weeks ago.
#18
I had about 15 days to savor my "fixed" C32 before the jerk returned completely. At first just the really slow speed awkward scenario jerk was there. Then the slow way down then speed way up jerk returned. Now the stop and go at a moderate pace jerk has returned to me today. Same old story, 1500-2000 rpm in 2nd gear=jerk.
I guess I could go back to my dealer, but what's the point. Perhaps I could work on a lemon law suit against MB. However, considering my car works as pure transportation and that other C32s have this problem I'm afraid they'd chalk this up to "normal behavior".
The only think I know for sure is that I have a $50K Mercedes Benz that drives worse than any other car I've ever owned: from $15K domestic crap to $75K BMW bliss.
I think I will just cut my losses and either tough out the remaining term on my lease or give in and trade it away before my lease is up (and get pounded by depreciation). Either way, after that I'll never buy another MB product. I never would have suspected design and engineering would be their fatal flaw![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I guess I could go back to my dealer, but what's the point. Perhaps I could work on a lemon law suit against MB. However, considering my car works as pure transportation and that other C32s have this problem I'm afraid they'd chalk this up to "normal behavior".
The only think I know for sure is that I have a $50K Mercedes Benz that drives worse than any other car I've ever owned: from $15K domestic crap to $75K BMW bliss.
I think I will just cut my losses and either tough out the remaining term on my lease or give in and trade it away before my lease is up (and get pounded by depreciation). Either way, after that I'll never buy another MB product. I never would have suspected design and engineering would be their fatal flaw
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#20
I had the jerking problem too.. Ever since I ordered and installed my wires and plugs from LETmotorsport I have been jerk free. It's been over 2 months now and no isses. So I don't know if it was the plugs and wires or was it pure coincidence. Anyone have the plugs and wires from LET and still having the jerk issue?
#21
I had the jerking problem too.. Ever since I ordered and installed my wires and plugs from LETmotorsport I have been jerk free. It's been over 2 months now and no isses. So I don't know if it was the plugs and wires or was it pure coincidence. Anyone have the plugs and wires from LET and still having the jerk issue?
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#22
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anyways, I took it back, they fixed it by replacing the torque-converter which I could've told them wouldn't do ****. It stayed fixed for about a week.
When I came back again they said (and I quote) "You're just going to have to live with it."
The other MB dealer I despise the least won't do anything with it anymore either. The one I despise 2nd least is just too far away for me to even try it.
Search for posts about putting in a 2003+ TCU - some have had luck with that.