C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

PTE Modded THERMOSTATS

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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jturkel
so looks like best way to go is

ic coolant: separated from engine with additional reservoir, larger heat exchanger, pump, heat wrapped components if truly desired

engine coolant: -10 fan mod, pte tstat

correct?
While I don't (yet) have all those pieces to the puzzle personally, yes - I think the approach listed is likely the best way to go.

I actually really like the simplicity of C3P's reservoir/separation system - if they didn't have a bad rep for customer service, I'd strongly lean in that direction. A truck mounted tank is probably optimal because you can go quite a bit bigger - but I like the KISS approach of having it all in the engine bay as a bolt-in, fully reversible solution.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #27  
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i believe the increase in engine temps on the srt-6 is from the mounting of the supercooler in front of the engine radiator. this is what is occuring on my slk32. increase in temps of approx. 10 degrees C.
if you are using the oem overflow for the i/c then you will need an additional resovoir. if the oem overflow is for the engine i think even the let will be suffiecent without an overflow. with the cm 30 and a larger h/e the temp drop is drastic.
i may suggest do the i/c separation with no overflow for now. you can always add it later
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 05:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by c32AMG-DTM
While I don't (yet) have all those pieces to the puzzle personally, yes - I think the approach listed is likely the best way to go.

I actually really like the simplicity of C3P's reservoir/separation system - if they didn't have a bad rep for customer service, I'd strongly lean in that direction. A truck mounted tank is probably optimal because you can go quite a bit bigger - but I like the KISS approach of having it all in the engine bay as a bolt-in, fully reversible solution.
yah i like the code3 one too, except for the reason you state and the price is way too high....i hear they drastically inflate their prices over what it costs them to get things built

Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
i believe the increase in engine temps on the srt-6 is from the mounting of the supercooler in front of the engine radiator. this is what is occuring on my slk32. increase in temps of approx. 10 degrees C.
if you are using the oem overflow for the i/c then you will need an additional resovoir. if the oem overflow is for the engine i think even the let will be suffiecent without an overflow. with the cm 30 and a larger h/e the temp drop is drastic.
i may suggest do the i/c separation with no overflow for now. you can always add it later
i may do this, as i'm not sure how much time i have to fab up brackets and set up a reservoir, let alone find a place to make it fit.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 05:31 PM
  #29  
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jturkel have you watched woody's videos on youtube? it will explain so much!
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 05:33 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
jturkel have you watched woody's videos on youtube? it will explain so much!
nope. can you send me a link?
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #31  
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I think the c3p separation/reservoir/ice is a good choice but what i always ask that the place that they put it is after the radiators that means all heat coming from the engine radiator will be in contact with the reservoir, am i wrong?
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
i may suggest do the i/c separation with no overflow for now. you can always add it later
so are you saying the extra reservoir isnt even necessary? if thats the case, then is it safe to do Tighed1's setup for the time being?
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 06:10 PM
  #33  
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i dont have a resovoir for my i/c setup and have had no fluid loss at all.
heres the link to the videos. they are really informative
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...taaa-daaa.html
i know the let is smaller than my supercooler but i think you can separte with no issues. its so easy even if it heats up you can return to oem in 5 minutes
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Robert AMG
I think the c3p separation/reservoir/ice is a good choice but what i always ask that the place that they put it is after the radiators that means all heat coming from the engine radiator will be in contact with the reservoir, am i wrong?
its more an issue of its the only real place it will fit
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 10:53 PM
  #35  
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ok guys. just spoke with Patrick of PTE

he layed out the pricing to me
Group Buy:

$156.00 ( Normal priced at $180.00) for a V-8 Kompressor
$100.00 ( Normally $140.00) for a V-6 Kompressor

as far as purchasing one, email him if you are interested at tynerfla@bellsouth.net. once he has finished make each set of group buys, he will contact you.

and i am in NO WAY affiliated with PTE. just relaying information.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 10:59 PM
  #36  
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That's great pricing for the GB! Kudos to PTE for doing this run and helping out members who want a cooler engine.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 07:44 AM
  #37  
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
Parts are in From Germany

Hello All:
The parts came yesterday, So I will start the build some today. The GB exceeded the 10 needed to get the price break . I would also like to extend this to the C-55 owners . I will set aside 5 modded assy for you GUYS. See there is Luv for the N/A group. Thanks to all whom participated. Tomorrow I'm off to the Abaco's, Be back Sunday
Cheers _PTEngineering

Last edited by PTE; Jul 23, 2009 at 07:47 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 01:33 AM
  #38  
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Thats awesome! Ok C55 guys.......your wish came true! if anyone wants a tstat, shoot Patrick an email at tynerfla@bellsouth.net. awesome guy to work with. can't wait to get mine!
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 01:44 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jturkel
Thats awesome! Ok C55 guys.......your wish came true! if anyone wants a tstat, shoot Patrick an email at tynerfla@bellsouth.net. awesome guy to work with. can't wait to get mine!

Pat is great to work with. The stat was one of my first mods when I had the c55 and it worked great. He also got me some cams.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 09:11 PM
  #40  
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did my tstat swap today. temps running approx 85 *C. very happy! whole swap took less than 10 minutes and loss of 1/2 gal antifreeze. easiest mod to date. THANX PATRICK!!!!
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 09:30 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
did my tstat swap today. temps running approx 85 *C. very happy! whole swap took less than 10 minutes and loss of 1/2 gal antifreeze. easiest mod to date. THANX PATRICK!!!!
great to hear! i should be getting mine from ups on friday! is there a DIY you followed to switch it out? i honestly don't know where its located in the car. i also need to fully change my coolant mixture to like 80/20 or 90/10 in favor of water.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jturkel
great to hear! i should be getting mine from ups on friday! is there a DIY you followed to switch it out? i honestly don't know where its located in the car. i also need to fully change my coolant mixture to like 80/20 or 90/10 in favor of water.
really simple.
1 remove the 2 clips on top of the fan
2 remove the fan elec plug and pull out the fan.
3 remove the serpentine belt
4 remove the idler pulley to the left of the tensioner
5 now you can see the tstat
6 remove the aluminium tube in front of the s/c pulley
7remove the radiator hose from the tsat and move it out of the way
8 remove the 2 torx bolts holding the tstat in and replace with the new tstat. if you have the new tstat handy you will lose only minimal fluid
9 reinstall is reverse of removal.
10 refill fluid with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze per m/b manual

start car and turn heater on full run for approx 10 mins. recheck fluid and take it for a run . i did a 200 mile cruise to fully purge the system and check for leaks
if you are going to flush the system its a great time to do the i/c separation you are only dealing with 2 hoses and they can be returned to oem in no time. use the female rubber plugs from autozone to plug off the hoses. the separtion will take longer than the flush and tstat mod combined!

Last edited by 320 dreamer; Jul 25, 2009 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
really simple.
1 remove the 2 clips on top of the fan
2 remove the fan elec plug and pull out the fan.
3 remove the serpentine belt
4 remove the idler pulley to the left of the tensioner

5 now you can see the tstat
6 remove the aluminium tube in front of the s/c pulley
7remove the radiator hose from the tsat and move it out of the way
8 remove the 2 torx bolts holding the tstat in and replace with the new tstat. if you have the new tstat handy you will lose only minimal fluid
9 reinstall is reverse of removal.
10 refill fluid with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze per m/b manual

start car and turn heater on full run for approx 10 mins. recheck fluid and take it for a run . i did a 200 mile cruise to fully purge the system and check for leaks
shizer.......my tensioner pulley bolt is completely stripped. F. i might need to employ that method mentioned in the srt6 forum: http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...er-pulley.html (even though i can swear i've unsuccessfully tried it before).

does the belt HAVE to come off? does the idler pulley HAVE to come off?

Last edited by jturkel; Jul 25, 2009 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jturkel
shizer.......my tensioner pulley bolt is completely stripped. F. i might need to employ that method mentioned in the srt6 forum: http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...er-pulley.html (even though i can swear i've unsuccessfully tried it before).

does the belt HAVE to come off? does the idler pulley HAVE to come off?
yes to both!. my tensioner is also screwed. by snugging the 15mm nut tighter and then using a 1/2 " breaker bar and socket i was able to slip the belt off. having a second set of hands would help. on the reinstall the pulley had some antifreeze on it and it actually helped it slip on. (antifreeze is some slippery stuff!)
the belt has to come off to get the pulley off because 1 of the torx bolts for the tstat is BEHIND the pulley
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 02:27 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
yes to both!. my tensioner is also screwed. by snugging the 15mm nut tighter and then using a 1/2 " breaker bar and socket i was able to slip the belt off. having a second set of hands would help. on the reinstall the pulley had some antifreeze on it and it actually helped it slip on. (antifreeze is some slippery stuff!)
the belt has to come off to get the pulley off because 1 of the torx bolts for the tstat is BEHIND the pulley
but wont that loosen the entire tensioner pulley? not just like turn to give the serpentine belt system some slack to take it off?

i'm just concerned that i won't be able to get it back on b/c i recall that it really needed some cranking on to get the belt on after i installed the 185
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 02:58 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by jturkel
but wont that loosen the entire tensioner pulley? not just like turn to give the serpentine belt system some slack to take it off?

i'm just concerned that i won't be able to get it back on b/c i recall that it really needed some cranking on to get the belt on after i installed the 185
with the bigger pulley you may have an issue. i just eased the 1/2" breaker and it allowed my stock setup to slip on. just have to try or spend 197$ for a new tensioner!
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 03:02 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 320 dreamer
with the bigger pulley you may have an issue. i just eased the 1/2" breaker and it allowed my stock setup to slip on. just have to try or spend 197$ for a new tensioner!
yah thats probly what i'll have to do. though i think you can get the bolts by themselves without getting a whole new tensioner.
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 04:40 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jturkel
yah thats probly what i'll have to do. though i think you can get the bolts by themselves without getting a whole new tensioner.
just remember how easy the tensioner torx bolt stripped! the tstat bolts are torx also and anything but a firm fit will strip the heads. then you will have a leaking tstat and a stripped tensioner.
have a friend help and slip the belt off. you should be able to get it back on with some patience
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #49  
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got mine today! can't wait to install!......though i think i need a whole new tensioner setup still, which i dread messing with.....
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 12:13 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Gramma_Benz
Oooops, sorry, I missed the earlier post by amx1397 saying the same thing.

**************************************************


This thermostat on a SRT-6:

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...installed.html

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PTE Modded THERMOSTAT installed - Today , 02:23 PM

well I finialy got around to installing my PTE Modded THERMOSTAT, if only we knew what this thermostat was going to do for us,, I would have installed it in the day i got it from Patrick ,, I have not set up the fan mod as of yet but almost don't need it , I am in south Florida where the temp stays above 80 and during the day lately we have had 95 degree temp. and my car stays one notch below the 1/2 mark.normal is one needle above the 1/2 mark being that i do not have the fan mod done yet after an hour of driving (city) my temp. goes back to factory setting,, but wait when the fan mod is in my temp will be one notch below the 1/2 mark all the time. right after the install i drove 62 miles to the track, tecked in and then let it cool,,, temp at the track was 84 degrees,, made 3 1/4 mile runs 12.71,, 12.76 ,, 12.78,, now my temp is comming up,, my last run was 13.01 the thing is this thing works to keep your car cooler and run stronger thanks patrick for this mod. jim


https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ermostats.html
now I have a PTE Modded THERMOSTAT installed in my E55 engine in my srt6 crossfire, my temp in South Florida runs 180 to 190,, One of three e55's in crossfires by Accelerated Ind love it the car and the PTE thermostat
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