Battery Drianing But not from the Seats..
Are there anyother places that might be a sorce?
P.S I have a 2002 C32
Thanks again
Good luck!
Ok so I dissconnect the battery from the + side and connect my meter to one side + battery and the other gose to the + cable for the car?
Sorry you kinda lost me.
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e.g. The first time I had the battery drain problem, we hooked up the ammeter, then pulled the fuse for the passenger seat control module. Then the battery draw dropped to a negligible draw, so I knew it was that seat module that was bad.
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also, what is the normal battery voltage? i think my gauge was reading somewhere between 12.4 (while at idle) and 13 or so while driving.
Also, just parked my car. Came back five minutes later, put the key to the position just before turning the car on. Battery voltage reading between 12.1-12.4. Ugh.....starting to worry about my car. I already have my idler pulley bearing (or both of them going out). Thank god it is going in the shop on Thursday for an overhaul
Last edited by jturkel; Oct 6, 2009 at 02:41 AM.
also, what is the normal battery voltage? i think my gauge was reading somewhere between 12.4 (while at idle) and 13 or so while driving.
Also, just parked my car. Came back five minutes later, put the key to the position just before turning the car on. Battery voltage reading between 12.1-12.4. Ugh.....starting to worry about my car. I already have my idler pulley bearing (or both of them going out). Thank god it is going in the shop on Thursday for an overhaul
This is exactly what happened to me when my CPS(Crank Position Sensor) went out. It would turn over more than usual before it started. Then it got progressively worse. Wouldn't start until the car cooled down, so I got it replaced ASAP. Luckily my mechanic keeps one in stock at all times since they go bad so often.
This is exactly what happened to me when my CPS(Crank Position Sensor) went out. It would turn over more than usual before it started. Then it got progressively worse. Wouldn't start until the car cooled down, so I got it replaced ASAP. Luckily my mechanic keeps one in stock at all times since they go bad so often.
you dont think this can be pulley related do you? oddly enough, like the day after i noticed my idler pulley/bearings going, the car has been struggling more and more to start up.
and for the crank position sensor, is there a code it should throw? i have a reader. i did some research and while i havent replaced mine yet (and i'm at 86K or so)....but it doesnt seem like i have symptoms i think..?.....doesnt feel like the car wants to stall out at a red light or suddently shut off. feels strong while driving minus the bearing/pulley issue.
edit.....voltage now down to 11.7-11.9
anyone know what the voltage is suppposed to be at when the car is sitting and key is in position just before motor turns on?
Last edited by jturkel; Oct 6, 2009 at 03:04 AM.
you dont think this can be pulley related do you? oddly enough, like the day after i noticed my idler pulley/bearings going, the car has been struggling more and more to start up.
and for the crank position sensor, is there a code it should throw? i have a reader. i did some research and while i havent replaced mine yet (and i'm at 86K or so)....but it doesnt seem like i have symptoms i think..?.....doesnt feel like the car wants to stall out at a red light or suddently shut off. feels strong while driving minus the bearing/pulley issue.
edit.....voltage now down to 11.7-11.9
anyone know what the voltage is suppposed to be at when the car is sitting and key is in position just before motor turns on?
Y'all with 185mm overdrive pulleys: what is the output from your alternators?
I did this and it shows 0 I dont see any power being used..
Here is a pictures of what i did.
Last edited by doom239; Oct 7, 2009 at 02:00 AM.
I made this a nightly routine.. until I unplugged the over head console.... problem was gone.



