Juggarnaut

Awesome gains. Around $3+ per whp?

gt4awd

Yes, and I was thinking you could just use the bottom half of the air box as a heat shield, and leave the stock air ram tubing. Total cost would be $65 dollars... Don't think it would work in the summer though... When my setup is finished the filters would be completely shielded from the engine.

mopmgy

I accept with information:It is a Dynocom Chassis Dynamometer capable of calculating up to 1200WHP. Around 35F temperature. No problems today other than a few off readings. 83HP @ 140MPH... A wideband o2 was used to monitor A/F which is spot on. The attached image shows the two best runs using both stock, and modified intake.

aho

Now would you see even more gains with a code3 intake on there as well?

Edit: just noticed your using the Y splitter instead of the T. Guess not.. lol

gt4awd

I wouldn't expect to see any more gains with the full open rear intake like Code3. I basically drilled a bunch of holes in the stock y-splitter, and turned it into a restrictive intake. Even with the cone filter setup I still noticed more supercharger whine having the y-splitter modified. To close it up I just need to tape over the filter opening... Rear intake is all about the extra sound. They showed gains with Code3 because stock restrictive airboxes were in use.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...take-mods.html

jturkel

ok i need some clarification here cause i think i'm apparently confused.

people mistakingly call the stock intake splitter the "y-splitter." the stock C32 splitter is actuall a "T-splitter," hence the shape and the ability to take the back of the T off to make a code3 setup.

The SL55 intake splitter is a "y-splitter"

now you said that you are using a "y-splitter". is that correct? in your videos you posted, you are clearly using a "T-splitter" with the backplate off and some kind of filter over it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTcn3AtSAis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJ0Yhi75Xk4

both of those show you having the stock T-splitter installed.

and then this link: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...take-mods.html

basically shows how you make a DIY Code3 intake setup on a T-splitter

so GT4AWD, what you have is a code3 style intake on the T-splitter (looks just like c32) and then attached cone filters. correct?

gt4awd

Sorry for the confusion. Yes, it is the stock C32 T-splitter. However, I modified the OE y-splitter (air diverter plate) into an intake. The dyno was done with the custom y-splitter intake, and cone filters.

jturkel

what was the order of your dynos? did you dyno the 327whp/374.3wtq first or the 322.6whp/364.8wtq first?

jturkel

ok thanks for the clarification!

aho

Now I'm confused, what's the OE y splitter?

TemjinX2

wow thats impressive.

gt4awd

Great question. Those two best runs were actually the last of the dyno runs. Heatsoak didn't seem to be an issue with that huge fan (and outside temperature)! First two were with custom intake, another two with stock, and the last few with cone filter intake again. The y-splitter intake was open on all runs...

gt4awd

Thanks, also to note I'm at higher altitude...

aho

Gotcha! Thanks!

jturkel

ok.

when you say the y-splitter intake was open on all runs, do you mean you had it installed with the filter on all runs, both with the stock airbox setup and your new custom setup? or do you mean you actually took off the filter and it was running open?

also, have you considered a heat exchanger? you hp numbers are a bit low for a 185 and i know you are being robbed of serious power by not having a heat exchanger. you cant even hit full potential boost on a code3 in 3rd and 4th without a heat exchanger...let alone a 185. get more power! lol

Dingleberry

i just noticed that you have a 185mm. shouldn't you be at 350whp+?

gt4awd

I did run a 340/380, but the dyno tech insisted it was a bad reading. I'm thinking it probably was...

gt4awd

First guess... It was used throughout all the runs.

I've considered larger heat exchanger, but so far I'm really not having problems with IAT cutting the supercharger. I'm leaning more towards separation from coolant system. That alone should solve any IAT problems, right? With it running as a connected system your IAT really depend on what the engine temperature is.

gt4awd

I can throw it on a mustang dyno if you want to see higher numbers!?

aho

Jturkel made 350 on a dyno dynamics and that's the lowest reading dyno. You're getting robbed of horsepower.

gt4awd

Was that with headers and heat exchanger, or without? Torque?

TemjinX2

well regardless of what his overall number is, his delta from stock to his modifed intake is significant.

Dingleberry

maybe, maybe not.

i'd like to see a timing curve plotted on the dyno and a timing curve plotted on the street.

that intake is definitely pulling in a ton of hot air and i suspect that the car is gonna pull timing due to the increased heat.

gt4awd

Really, because the intake isn't even finished and that medium sized shop fan was able to keep temperatures down. The runs were done in 4th gear up to 140MPH. Think of the airflow at that speed?

jturkel

i would like to see this as well as your thoughts reflect my sentiments exactly.

i made 350whp, 359wtq on 91 octane, 80 degrees outside IIRC (a bit warmer than 35 either way lol). no headers. but yes with a heat exchanger.

fact. the delta is what is important here. it is impossible to compare different cars on different dynos under different conditions, etc...

what was the temperature in the room or on the dyno? perhaps some of that 35 degree air was blowing in? idk.....i really think that the filters need to be heat wrapped and the intake needs to supply more direct flow of air to the filters. thats obviously IMO.

as far as airflow, if you look at your dyno, you actually lose power as you approach redline. the hp line tapers downwards....and i'd bet that is a combination of timing being pulled because of high IATs and/or insufficient air flow (perhaps because of not having a direct flow of air to the filters).

i can say that with my 55 setup, mine does not taper off...and i was suffering some heat problems on the dyno.

i think with heat wrap and a more direct air flow, this could be a very effective, consistent, and money-smart setup.