gt4awd

The shop owner was doing the runs, and never went past 5.8RPM. I asked him why, and he said that he didn't want to push it too hard. I think he was usually letting off towards the end. That's the drop in power you see...

jturkel

hmm ok. i guess that could explain it, depending on how soon he let off. in your dyno, you started losing power with the curve tapering down starting at around 5200rpm.

either way, finish up that intake and then lets critique this more seriously, since this is not the finished product. GL with the intake!

gt4awd

jturkel, could you post your dyno sheet please? Also to note we did the runs in 4th not 3rd. Should that make any difference?

jturkel

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...hp-359wtq.html

for some reason, i forgot to mention in my first post in that thread that i had a heat exchanger in, but i did.

as far as 3rd versus 4th gear, i'm not too sure to be honest.

AJBoost

Great job on the intake, especially for the money! I think the results WOULD be very different with it on the street though. 35F, no way is the engine bay going to ever be that cold. The added heat and a normal warm day could cause detonation. At the minimum, timming would be pulled to keep from detonating.

Bottom line, I like the project. It's a little too "honda" looking on the C32 for me, but the heat is a real concern. With my Subaru, changing the intake with requires a re-tune of the pcm to stay in safe a/f and timming parameters. Just a little fyi.

Albert Hernandez.

gt4awd

12.2 was the lowest A/F ratio reading we got. LET did a great job on the ECU tune. Even corrected for my higher altitude. The supercharger would disengage, and timing would be cut as you get after IAT too high before any detonation could take place, I think. I don't think it looks riced out, but I guess some people would. Should look better when I'm finished.

How large are the openings on the sl55 t-splitter? Ask, because I can only run around 2 1/4" piping with the c32 splitter. The filter is capable of supporting up to 3.5" piping.

Beaker

This thread has taught me a lot on intakes since I just installed a code 3 intake myself I'm curious as to the theory behind it all.

Can someone tell me if its possible to have the IAT's display on your steering display?

I just replaced a intercooler pump that was literally cutting in and out every 5 minutes (5 on and 5 off) that now works great, albeit a big leak initially due to not clamping one of the hoses.. oops

AJBoost

You know, with enough heat anything is possible. All boosted cars come with some sort of knock fail safe. But one look at any Subaru or Mitsubishi forum and it's clear to see detonation is a real and dangerous thing for any engine.

On my stage 2 dyno tune my intake temps were significantly higher than the outside temps. By ALOT. Anyway, it's just something to be aware of.

As for appearance, its so subjective. But I like NOT having a huge intake and FMIC pipes all over the place! Lol, i'm sure that has to do with the Subaru's engine bay.

jturkel

no. it is not possible to have the IAT's display on your steering display. only the engine coolant temperatures (ECT). i purchased an OBDII gauge to monitor and watch my IATs, boost, etc...it is definitely a nice addition

with the code3 intake, your IATs may rise a few degrees. i believe even Brandon said that in his description of the code3 intake product. however, the benefits outweigh the costs of this intake.

Beaker

thanks.

I think on the hot days here though I migth have IAT issues even with the new IC30.

what's the best way to keep them low, even on hot days? I've read heat wrapping but probably the code 3 straight replace heat exchanger will do the trick?

jturkel

CM30 you mean? lol

if you want to spend some money:
1) larger heat exchanger
2) split coolant system
3) you've done the CM30
4) heat wrapping could work. no one to my knowledge has shown any results on the C32 though.
5) if you are super serious about cooling, you could use meth-injection and nitrous for cooling....you could also custom coat the intake manifolds with a heat-resistant coating

gt4awd

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNlIRBXC6-o

Video of the dyno runs if anyone is interested. Straps were a little loose that first run. It almost jumped the dyno with an unexpected downshift...

M-bENZ

what is your stock numbers before that setup ? did you gain ?

Andy

gt4awd

Custom Intake - 327.6WHP/374.3WTQ
Custom Intake - 322.6WHP/364.8WTQ
Stock Intake - 308.9WHP/355.4WTQ
Stock Intake - 305.8WHP/359.3WTQ

I never had the vehicle dyno'ed stock.

SilverBulletAMG

I made a ton of runs on mine from everything between 2nd and 4th gear and it didn't make a measurable difference. Even did a few runs recording from 1st through 4th WOT the entire time. Most seem to run dyno mode and measure from 3rd gear however.

SilverBulletAMG

Good news here is it showed a gain on a dyno. I assume the hood was up, engine fairly cool, and had a large fan blowing on the engine/intake? (I can't watch the video at work, so I'm just assuming here till I see the video)

As for the dyno numbers themselves, here is a comparison of the same car (350Z), same operator, different dynos....just so you can see where your numbers on that dyno match up with others. Point being Dynocom is very generous.

Dynocom results:
Best run: 340.9whp / 315.0 ft-lbs


Mustang Dyno Results:
Best Run: 306whp / 254ft-lbs


Dynojet Results:
Best Run: 311whp / 260ft-lbs
Source:

jturkel

i found this exact source yesterday. it appears they read quite high. i wish GT4AWD had a stock/baseline dyno so we could see what he really is working with and how much total gains (delta) he has seen.

this site is what makes me think he is actually having major cooling issues and just not knowing it because he isnt monitoring IATs or timing.....asuming that these dynocom dynos actually read that high (i've read elsewhere they are usually within 1% of dynojets)

320 dreamer

josh you know this has been done for yrs on the srt-6 forum. without running tubes to the front of the rad, this setup wont last 5 minutes in the summer. shielding , cones in the engine bay, drilling the backplate all done ad nauseam . full sl55 setup or dual cai or modded oem is the only way to get consistent airflow and hp

kindafast

Your car sounds sick!

jturkel

i know...thats why i've said what i've said so far. it needs direct air flow and needs to be away from heat.....and the cooler ambient temps right now are working in his favor.

and thats why i have the full sl55 setup....and still trying to come up with another way for a needswing style dual intake to fit and work (though likely at the cost of part of my firewall lol)

320 dreamer

heres a thought josh.
instead of going thru the rad support how about 90* down along the rad and and point thru the center lower grille? kinda bimmer style

jturkel

by center lower grille, are you referring to the center mesh grille in front of the heat exchanger?

if so, problem there is its proximity to the ground.....high chance of puddle or water splashing up, getting on/into the filter...hydrolock.....death lol. also, i'm sure there will be good exposure in front of or near that grille, but there will also be some heat as it sits right in front of those rotating pulleys....also, if the car is gunned and jerks a little bit, i may be a bit concerned as to how much the intake moves about....and would hope it wouldnt ever come into contact with any of the rotating pulleys or belt lol.

unless you're referring elsehwere.....an extreme way would be to drill holes and cut out a part of the headlight on each side and place some kind of filter on each side there like Blackbenzz has ( IIRC )....but obviously, thats a bit extreme. i'm sure there is a way....hopefully one will be discovered soon

320 dreamer

you have the right idea josh. no worry about hydrolock the water would never make the trip up the tubes and thru the 90 bend.
my 32 has tons of room from the front of the engine to the rad. more than enough to get down to the lower grill

jturkel

hmm. i'll take a look at it later for clearance and such and talk over it and other potential mods for the M112k later over beers with Hooley lol.

gt4awd

Actually the best runs were made with hood down, engine at normal operating temperature (80-90C), and a large fan blowing on the front.
I really don't think dynocom, or at least the one I was on reads that high. If that were the case I would be looking at serious power loss as if the car were stock, and it sure doesn't feel stock... Another thing to note is his dynocom is special and includes sensors to monitor effects of temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, and altitude. Without this the Dynocom would read a lot higher. I think his setup is nearly as accurate as dyno dynamics... Can't say for sure.
So do I, but I don't, and I'm not going to revert back to stock for a baseline... I could, but that is too much work IMO...
Just drill holes in the hood, and place them outside... Now that's extreme full on exposure.
Sure does... You should hear it in person!