AMGSC

In March of this year, I will be selling my Kleemann kit and going twin-turbo.

Will entertain all reasonable offers.

ProjectC55

Take it off the car first then advertise it because u r known for doing the flip-flop dance.

AMGSC

Forget about the TT. Just found out that next year MB factory will produce 5.5TTs.

I think I'm done investing any more into this car. She runs what she runs when she runs. Then I'm done.

jturkel

lol

Gramma_Benz

....

Dingleberry

lol

DarkXerox

Haha you win good sir

mb_c55amg_guy

awesome....u called it....in less than 4 hours....lol

ProjectC55

Did'nt I tell ya! You're amazing!

How much more attention do you need?

mb_c55amg_guy

LOL...........

crazeazn

hilarious

ABALONE

Damn, i was about to bid on it, was going to start at $30000 Now it's "called off"

AMGSC

Here's the deal. I tried to run 18psi and now Brandon and Cory tells me the blower is not big enough.

Here's the difference between the Kleemann and OEM SC.

OEM IHI: Has a 2:1 step up gear ratio inside the clutch so my 7psi becomes OEM SC's 14psi
OEM IHI: Rotors are hollow allowing to spin faster than Kleemann with less centrigul mass.

KLEEMANN AUTOROTOR: Better intercooler
KLEEMANN AUTOROTOR: Stronger longer lasting components like solid 4-lobe male rotors and more efficient nosedrive.

I was told by Brandon and Cory not to exceed 12psi before heat buildup and additional hp required to drive the larger crank pulley would rob me of 20-30hp while the heat build-up past the point of the SC efficiency would cost me another 40hp so I would need to make an additional 70hp just to break even over my current 12psi pulley.

Since I lowered the compression of my engine so much with reinforced forged pistons and rods and installed a 1500hp tranny, I cannot maximize the power capabilties with my current blower setup. I would not be content with just hitting low 11's so if the car can't make mid-10's then off she goes in a month or two. I will then drop in 2 supersized Garrett turbos and now we are talking. I've got Gary who is an expert in setting up TT kits for Lambos and Ferraris who can get it done in a month or two for under $10K. If I can recoup $5K for Kleemann setup then I'm only out $5K for the TT.

It will still be more powerful than next year's factory 5.5TT since OEM turbos are puny compared to the choices we have in aftermarket.

superstar

TemjinX2

whats your power goal? wouldn't it be easier just to run higher compression pistons and just run less boost? Then to do a whole new turbo conversion.

TemjinX2

supercharged e46 m3 hitting 644whp

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=185391

Dingleberry

centri blowers have much better top end than roots blowers, they're almost like turbos.

TemjinX2

he has a twin screw though.

AMGSC

You cannot run turbos with high compression pistons. It's just the opposite.

Secondly, Stock CR is 11:1 and I had less boost before. The only reason I lowered CR was to run MAX boost and power.

The only way I know of making over 1000hp is by going big turbos.

TemjinX2

you can run FI with higher compression. Its been done many times. Its just more difficult to tune a higher compression car then to go low compression and just jack up the boost.

Just look at hooley c55 and there's a bunch of stock 350z's putting down 400whp on stock internals, and 400-500whp s2000's on stock internals.

You just said kleeman told you your pretty much already running at max boost without losing efficenticy.

The most cost efficient way would be just the go with slightly higher compression pistons..say a 9.5:1 or 10:1 to eek out more power.

But yeah, if you wanna hit 1000hp...turbo is the way to go. You never stated how much hp you want to put down in your other post.

alumar

on a lighter note, mine might to up for sell in 2010 for a very reasonable price.

Just this week recieved 4 new shoes (4x Michelin Pilot PS2), 4 new pads for the Brembo GT's, recently recieved a full service on the supercharger from Kleemann in CO and reinstalled with new intake gaskets, new tensoner and belt. Also a set of factory plugs, 8 new coil packs, 16 new sparkplugs and a full transmission and engine fluid flush.

Latest dyno 440 RWHP and 451RWTQ with timestamp and video of the dyno run. Its in the garage for the winter and will be visiting at least one more track run (1/4 mile) to post a strong 2010 number.

Will be looking for low to mid 20k - car has 67k miles and includes starmark 100k warranty till 8/2010

hooleyboy

Boost makes more power than compression. So a nice drinking analogy would be my mixed drink theory.

If compression is the mixer and boost is the booze. What ever one you have more of will determine the drinks potency.

weak drink: 3/4 parts mixer (11.1 compression) 1/4 part booze (boost)

Stiff Drink: 1/4 part mixer ( 9.x compression) 3/4 parts booze (boost)

So the one with the more booze (boost) will get you drunk faster. In theory. "If" the only difference between a 55NA vs a 55K engine is the compression. The one that can cram more boost in it will be the more potent. So the more booze you fit in that 12once glass... Im sure you know where this is going.

As for tuning: A lower compression car (boost friendly) will be easier to tune. as said by TemjinX2. As long as the compressed air is cooled. High compression cars that have more parts compression than boost. Have no way of really cooling the compressed stuff, in the in the cylinder. It will knock easier, and thats a bad thing.

We all know boost creates heat so.. To much of it will cause detonation/knock as well. That goes the same for High and low C/R engine.

Its really comes down to the sum of the parts. As mentioned 350Z's and G35's are hitting that 400+ WHP mark on stock bottom ends. either from Stillen SC's, APS TT, or what now. The only thing is that motor in its stock form is weak.

The people I've need seen with the VQ35 motor, that have blown them. Has been due to reaching the components limitations for what it can handle.. power wise. No matter what the power adder; turbo, SC, or Nitrous. They all seem to fail at some number just over the 425whp (roughly) or so number . On the stock block. This is not because of bad tuning, rather the rods and pistons just can not handle the pressure/power.

If you have ever seen a diesel motor's components? They are big, heavy and mostly cast iron. In a diesels engines case they run upwards of 17.1 Compression and something like 40psi of boost. thats because that motor needs to knock or detonate the fuel. So for the people who dont know what knock/detonation sounds like. Listen to a diesel pickup as it auto ignites the fuel.

The motor wont blowup, crush a piston, or snap a rod, due to the parts being so strong... Usually with strength comes weight. However the AMG engine uses an extremely high quality cast light weight piston. IMO its one of the strongest pistons you can get from any car mfg. That added with forged rods, lets owners like myself, Blackbenzz, and others run more power than your run of the mill sports car. Like Mustang GT's and Nissan 350Z's

So when a Mustang GT runs 7psi of boost and shoots a piston down into the oil pan. The AMG (55NA) engine will ask for more... And it will handle more.. I know you guys know all this stuff though..

To get the C32 guys in on this. I would think with your lower compression you should be able to make up for the missing 2 cylinders my car has, even with mine being boosted. What I'm trying to say is... The M112, 32 motor should be able to hit power numbers like my car does, around 480whp pending on the day.

What suck about the C32 (I mean sucks in its drawback.) is its supercharger. Some one needs to find away to get the CFM's up. Not so much the boost, but the amount of air the motor flows. Maybe ditch the supercharger and put on a big turbo, or get a better bigger supercharger that flows more.

IDK... I thing the C32 motor can handle it.

Dingleberry

the c32 supercharger blows, pun intended

ABALONE

Well the stock AMG pistons in our 55 engines are really good in a N/A setup. But when going F/I they suddenly become to weak. They are just not designed for that much heat and pressure in a F/I setup. How much Kleemann and other people tell you that it will work, it just won't in the loong run.
Even in the Kleemann low boost setup, if you drive the car hard like you want to do with a fast car, the pistons (ring land) will start taking damage and you will see lost compresion as a result

11,1: CR and high boost will make great power,YES!!! BUT try to take the car down the German Autobahn (or other long highway passes) and let it run hard and long for a few hours, then you will se the difference between lasting for a few 10-12 seconds 1/4 mile races Vs having low CR engine (9,1:1) engine that will withstand the power all day with much less heat!!

So AMGSC, i personally think you could easy run 18 Psi boost with the AUTOROTOR in your set up and still make HUGE power, and still have a engine that is safe.

Just look at the stock W211 E55. CR 9,1:1 ~ 1bar = ~ 500 HP that will last 400000 KM if you do all the services and oil.

Your engine is the same, and to listen to Kleemann saying that you have a to small blower is nonsens IMHO The Lysholm/Autorotor that is in your car is a really top notch blower, and can make 1,0+ bar anyday. And your blower is even ported Kleemann guys will always tell you to go safe to save their products.

Ask them what setup they had in their World Record W210 E55 and they won't tell you a sh*t Making 607 HP and not going over stock pulley 2,8" and 0,42 bar boost, yeaaaaaaaa right Of course they are holding info back regarding to keep custumers cars safe.

Just look at the old Cobras,Lightnings, they have the older Gen 3 Eaton M112 and are making 500 RWHP with aprox 1-1,2 bar of boost.

*Look here for a comparsion*

I have the more efficent Gen 5 MP112 Eaton/Magnuson,
You have the even better Autorotor twin-screw.

You do the math if your car and S/C can handle more boost

Thericker