Wow what a difference! the car drives like a Mercedes for a change! interestingly, it got rid of some annoying hesitation problems and vibrations I was experiencing.

How many miles do you have on yours? I've got 35k and I'm planning to change it soon, but I know my car had the valve body replaced at some point so I don't know for sure how many miles are on the fluid right now.

Fluid change can make a difference in shifting, it can also extend the life of your transmission. I change mine every 40,000 miles in any Mercedes that I have had.

Mercedes-Benz recommends changing the transmission fluid in the transmissions at 100,000 miles.

However if you live in hot weather climates (Like Arizona, where summer temperatures can exceed 110+ degrees for 4+ months etc...) Mercedes-Benz recommends changing the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles due to the extreme temperatures can wear/break down the fluid to not perform optimally.

Mercedes-Benz recommends AMG vehicles should be changed every 39,000 miles, especially if you drive it hard.

I definately drive mine like it should be driven, plus I like to use the manual shifting a good bit (mostly for downshifting) so I know that probably adds a little extra wear.

Its worth it. Do it... Don't wait on it..
Mine felt a lot smoother afterward. (changed it ard 40k)

Where did you get it done? Dealer? DIY?

How much did it cost you, if you don't mind me asking?

yeah its definately worth it. The shift feel is so much better.

Factory Recommended Transmission Service

Recommended at 39,000 miles

Vehicles equiped with a .6 transmission - $279
Vehicles equiped with a .9 transmission - $359

Transmission Service Includes the Following

• Remove transmission pan
• Replace transmission filter & pan gasket
• Renew fluid (5 quarts synthetic transmission fluid)
• Road test to verify proper gearshift performance

*Consult your dealership for exact pricing on your model*

Check here for service and maintenance details of what they do and approx costs.
A & B Services and Maintenance costs

Check here for complete post
A & B Service and Resetting

I would recommend if your going to change the fluid, you might want to look into changing the transmission valve/solenoids while they have it open if you want quicker shifting (be sure to check if you have brown tops, if you do then you might want to switch to the blue tops for quicker more accurate shifts).

But beware it does shift harder, a few people here have done it. See this post for more info if your interested in transmission mods.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...mod-cheap.html

Can this be done on a C32?? dose anyone have the part # for the blue tops?

I know mine has to be due, or overdue for a transmission oil change. Previous owner said he had it done, but provided no service records. My experience with him wasn't good, so it's one of the first things on my list once the c32 gets out of my garage. At the dealership a while back I asked how much it would cost to flush the transmission, and they said something in the $500 dollar range. Then stated normally just drop the pan, and change fluid is $300 some. However, I thought for a proper change the differential must be drained as well. Is that part of the basic transmission service? Where they hook it up to a machine, and run 9 quarts, or so through everything, or is that a transmission flush only?

Does anyone know if there are any checkballs or anything crazy that will fall out if I remove my valve body to upgrade those solenoids? Are there any gaskets that I will need for the valve body?

In that post https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...mod-cheap.html The part numbers are listed there for the blue tops (check the other reference link in post).

As far as the gaskets or other items im not sure, Hooleyboy might be able to answer as he did this to his transmission by himself.

As far as the C32 I'm not sure, check the post link above, there is a way to check the production time of the transmission in their system that will tell you when the brown top to blue top conversion took place from factory.

I have 101,000 miles.

the cost was $329 at the dealership. Their estimate was $359 though. They also inspected everything, discovered my aftermarket plugs :-), found a crack in my flex plates (??) and saw that I had leaky motor mounts. They also mentioned that the air cleaners were dirty. I was planning to change the tranny fluid myself, but it was going to cost almost $250 so I figured I'd save myself the headache and get it done.

Today I felt like I was driving a new car. The transmission's grip has never been so good! I was spinning tires unintentionally.

Nice, glad to hear it drives like new.

Did you notice any improved shifting when you do it manually, less delay?

Did you consider the brown top / blue top pressure value/solenoid switch?

I haven't noticed an improvement when manually shifting, but I don't really use that feature a lot. I am going to change the solenoids but I wanted to make sure the tranny wasn't slipping or anything in case I had to replace bands or apply levers.

I've always experienced a delay when manually upshifting, but it usually downshifts fairly quickly.

the service I got was a "flush" according the the service adviser. I was charged for 6 quarts of fluid I believe so they couldn't have replaced it all.

Mike

Interesting... If that's all they're doing we're getting ripped off.

well, there are 3 quarts of fluid in the pan and 4+ in the converter. but usually you need an extra 2 or 3 quarts to pour in as the fluid comes out of the line. then again, I don't know for sure.

Search my thread on the process. If I recall it was what 14L for a full flush?

I'm guessing that's to have as little old fluid left as possible. if you follow the directions, you will drain and replace about 3 quarts out of the pan, but that's going to mix with the other 3-4 dirty quarts still left in the converter. when you drain that, you're draining out about 1/2 of what's in there so when you refill you still have 25%(or so) dirty fluid left. I don't believe there is any way to replace the fluid completely all at once without taking it apart. however, if you drain and refill a gallon at a time a few times, you will continue to lower the % of dirty fluid left. The way I've done it myself in the past is to just disconnect the line to the radiator and let it drain into a 5 gallon jug as I pour new fluid in at the same time.

after i had changed out the fluid in the pan, the fluid coming out of the cooler line was just as dark as the fluid that i had drained from the pan. it took another 8 quarts of fluid to get it to be as light as the brand new fluid i was pouring in.

also i would not recommend draining off of the cooler line and refilling simultaneously, because you are not measuring exactly the in/out, so it's possible to overfill/underfill and run the risk of cavitation of the trans oil pump. what i do is fill up an empty 1 quart atf bottle, shut off car, replenish 1 quart and continue doing this until i've done the 8 quarts.

that's definitely the safest way!

I used a fluid extractor and sucked out approx 2 quarts thru the dip stick pipe 4 times in a row on my c32. After replacing the 2 quarts, i would drive the car for 10 mins or so shifting thru all gears, and then do the next 2 quarts. By the end i figued most of the old fluid was replaced. never did cure the tranny jerk though

Where is the tranny dip stick tube? I see an oil dipstick tube, but not a tranny tube?