CLKCLK

Hi all,

I belive some of you have been into this situation before and I am seeking for helps now.

After my Let/Erocharged guide idle pulley failed month ago, I cleared the code after installing a new pulley and belt. Now my car fails CA smog test. The car does pass emission test, but fails due to the C (calystic), O (oxygen sensor), OH (oxygen heater sensor) are not ready. The car needs a drive cycle to initiate the 3 codes. The tech told me that I only need one of the three ready to pass the smog. However, it doesn’t matter how I drive, the car will not flag the three codes.

I have been driving more than 800 miles (freeway/local-1mile trip/100 mile trip) but still not able to make it ready. I have also tried to contact LET/Eurocharged couple times already to see if they somehow can bypass the check, but there is no answer from them.

I am seeking for help now if anyone has the drive cycle instructions for C32. Or if you know any source to bypass these.

Thanks in advance!

Gramma_Benz

Did you see this post?

https://mbworld.org/forums/3885819-post8.html

The following "universal" drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This generic OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to "sit" overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.


1. Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
3. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

https://mbworld.org/forums/3945189-post15.html
normal driving you'll need somewhere between 800-900 miles. three tanks of gas at least.

last time when I did this I made 3-4 trips to the smog test ppl because of it.
__________________

CLKCLK

Thank you Gramma_Benz, I have tried this procedure tiwce, but still can't set the codes. It's really hard (and alsmost impossible) to go from 55mph to 0 without stepping on the brake you know that right? especially in the Bay

Does anyone have one for C32?
Thanks,

320 dreamer

sunday morning around 3 am is when i do the drive cycles and thats the one i use

splinter

Do you have a scanner to verify OBD II test readiness?
Some ECU tuners alter the signals from the oxygen sensors... https://mbworld.org/forums/4091838-post7.html

Advise you mail off the annual car taxes to Sacramento before their due date in order to avoid late penalties.
There’s a three month grace period before the draconian wallop of California’s emissions compliance statutes can deliver their full brunt.

Seldom one to intentionally pollute the environment or consume more than my fair of hydrocarbons, I’ve nevertheless had to jump through various hot rodding hoops since the '70s.
Rather pleased the ‘off-highway use only’ C blows almost a clean as a spring breeze (less than 4% of allowable HC, CO and NOx standards) during its stringent biennial tailpipe inspections.

Lenin

Contact Tony from Eurocharged. Get you ECU flashed to stock. Take the inspection test. Then flash your tune back.

CLKCLK

I've just come back from the 3rd try but still can't set it ready. Is your car stock or modded? That procedure just doesn't work for my car.

I do have a scanner to test the readiness. Everything is good except the 3 are flashing . I am not sure if LET alter my O2 signals. I've tried to pm them couple times, but no response. Does anyone know?

It seems more difficult to contact them now then back to the day. Before I usually get response within 4hr or a day and 2 day turn around for sending/re-flashing/receiving my ECU. But now pm-ed 4 days without response. I am not quite sure how longer it will take if I send my ECU out. and not sure if it will work.

This sistuation is a headache

Thanks a lot for your helps and any help is much appreciated!

320 dreamer

im still working on my drive cycle. was told it may take 4 or more drives to get everything to read. and im heavily modded with full dyno e/c tune

CLKCLK

5th try already. I feel stu&&& for trying it. It just never works at least on my car. It seems like ECU modded cars are having the readiness issue.

So if you have a scanner and your car has an ECU tune, please check and post your readiness. If this is truelly a problem, we have to re-flash our ECU to stock for smog?
Please add to the list below your readiness:
1.CLKCLK Pulleys/tune Readiness (NO) Not ready codes: C, O, OH

320 dreamer

im getting the same codes as you are. i had an additional code but after the first drive cycle it went away. i have a dashdaq but i dont think it reads these codes., so i wont know until i go back and try emmissions again. i cant say the tune did this because my tune was done in dec and i tried emmissions in april after many battery disconnects for work and code clearing before the dashdaq.
so ill try to pass next week and report back!

Lenin

That's what I said. And Splinter said more or less the same thing. Call Tony. Don't send him PMs or emails. If that doesn't work, call Jerry. Maybe you can do a remote flash using the Galletto cable or EC's own remote kit.
The tune does turn off signals from the oxygen sensors and unlike the Kleemann tune that fools the system into communicating "all is well", the EC tune just makes them communicate nothing. I use Ross-Tech to read the readiness but I'm at the beach now. Will post my readings when I get back.

c32used

Question??? Can these codes be turned on on same tune or are we forced to go to stock tune?

Lenin

Your tuner should have a copy of your last tune. That's the file that should be changed.

02C32guy

I know Cali is a nightmare as far as emissions go, but here in PA, if I had the problems you have, I would just search out a "lick 'em and stick 'em" inspection station. Basically, just an unscrupulous tech who will just sell you inspection stickers.

CLKCLK

You will be running on exact same tuned file except the witches for those rear O2 sensor signal are turned back on. They were turned off on previous tunes. It's a free retune, but you have to spend like $100 for shipping and down time.

SETSEROCK

why wont eurocharged just [pck up there phone/amswer messages???

WhiteC320

Thanks Gramma Benz. It worked for me. I had a battery drain on my C320 and had to disconnect my battery every time I come
home otherwise next day my car is dead. After failing the inspection couple times I realized that this was the problem
since all memory gets erased after battery disconnect. I would hope for some chip that would store driving info beyond
the power disconnect. Anyway I had to leave my battery connected for a change and got up in the night to start the car
for a while and then again early in the morning I went for a highway drive (when road is pretty much empty). Went to car
mechanic afterwards, he checked the OBD2 readiness with his OBD instrument and I had to take care of one more thing to be
able to pass (had initially 4 sensors not ready, after first drive, had 3 left. I repeated the drive cycle once again
afternoon when the traffic is not soo bad and went back to the mechanic who checked it again and there was only 1 sensor
not ready (can have max. 2 not ready to pass). So I went immediatelly to the air station and passed the test. I drove all
together about 70 miles in 2 cycles (highway and city).
Back to the battery drain: if you open the driver side comparment with the fuses (open driver door-left side of the
dashboard has a cover-open it), there are 2 green fuses at the very top-front side. I took those out and tested the seats
and they were not working (since most c class have battery drain caused by the seat motor power drain when idle).
Problem: all the door funtions are dead (cannot lock/unlock with remote, cannot open window while driving, etc.). No
good.
Put back in the fuses. Look under the seats (front). There are 2 wire harnesses. Press on the sides of the plastic
connectors and disconnect both of them (after adjusting your seats to needed positions). After I did this I left my car
overnite (and till today) and there is no more battery drain and all my other (and door) functions work fine as they used
to. Later I will connect one seat back and switch them around to see if both of them are causing the drainage problem of
just one.

Gramma_Benz

Welcome.

Do this to fix your seat problem. Otherwise it's about $400 to replace your seat modules.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/262131-temjinx2s-20-seat-control-battery-drain-fix.html#post3068555

Thanks again goes to TemjinX2.