Looking to upgrade you C32???
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From: CO
02 C32 AMG, 2012 S550
Looking to upgrade you C32???
I wanted to start a thread getting everyones C32 performance upgrades and their thoughts about them. How much hp did it give you, how did it feel different, was it worth the cost/performance etc.
I bought my car with the pulley and ECU tune already on it so I don't really know what a stock C32 feels like and have nothing to compare to. I'm looking at upgrading but not sure what would be best. This could also help out for all the other C32 guys looking to make upgrades
I have a Kleemann pulley which is 178m correct? What kind of power am I losing by staying with that pulley vs. the 185mm??
I bought my car with the pulley and ECU tune already on it so I don't really know what a stock C32 feels like and have nothing to compare to. I'm looking at upgrading but not sure what would be best. This could also help out for all the other C32 guys looking to make upgrades
I have a Kleemann pulley which is 178m correct? What kind of power am I losing by staying with that pulley vs. the 185mm??
Last edited by reflex92; Feb 17, 2011 at 03:54 PM.
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From: SoCal
2018 GLE350
I have a fully stock C32 (I dunno I've always preferred OEM stock) and I have to say the car on it's on is very fast.
If you already have the Pulley and ECU tune, I suppose you could look at maybe headers and exhaust. I'm sure the real experts will pop in shortly and give you some better suggestions
If you already have the Pulley and ECU tune, I suppose you could look at maybe headers and exhaust. I'm sure the real experts will pop in shortly and give you some better suggestions
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From: Salt Lake City
C32, 911 SC
I was debating between 178 and 185. The benefit of 178 is that you can run stacked pulley with 178 and Code 3 SC pulley to give you similar boost to 185. I've read about this on Crossfire forum.
You will have to do a retune if you run stacked 178 and Code 3 SC though to make sure your afr is safe.
You will have to do a retune if you run stacked 178 and Code 3 SC though to make sure your afr is safe.
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From: CO
02 C32 AMG, 2012 S550
Oooo stacked you say...please tell me more 
Where can I find a code 3 pulley? From the little research I did on the site it looks like they are hard to find. Anyone selling one or know where to find one?
Where can I find a code 3 pulley? From the little research I did on the site it looks like they are hard to find. Anyone selling one or know where to find one?
Last edited by reflex92; Feb 17, 2011 at 05:46 PM.
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02 C32 AMG
178 stacked with code3 is similar to 185. someone once thought that there is a chance that the 178 stacked combo MIGHT be better b/c it would be slightly less rotating mass on the crank and, with the code3 stacked, you would get the same boost level but, again, have less parasitic loss due to the lighter/smaller crank pulley. there is ZERO evidence for this, and there will always be a little more belt slip with a smaller s/c pulley, so i stuck with the tried and tested 185. very happy with it. i would recommend the NW PSK for anyone that gets it.
....for either setup, a tune is a MUST....as is a heat exchanger. you will not see anywhere near the potential max boost/power levels with either setup (or even a plain 178 for that matter) without an upgraded one.
....regarding the exhaust comment, once you've got a stacked 178 setup or 185 with an intake and tune, you'll likely only see 10-15whp MAX WITH a retune with headers. that is the only exhaust mod that really nets you some tangible HP/TQ. higher flow primaries, deleted secondaries, and resonator will, if anything, maybe gain you like 5whp AFTER doing headers and save you some weight and make it sound nicer
....for either setup, a tune is a MUST....as is a heat exchanger. you will not see anywhere near the potential max boost/power levels with either setup (or even a plain 178 for that matter) without an upgraded one.
....regarding the exhaust comment, once you've got a stacked 178 setup or 185 with an intake and tune, you'll likely only see 10-15whp MAX WITH a retune with headers. that is the only exhaust mod that really nets you some tangible HP/TQ. higher flow primaries, deleted secondaries, and resonator will, if anything, maybe gain you like 5whp AFTER doing headers and save you some weight and make it sound nicer
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02 C32 AMG
code3performance no longer sells them. check the srt6 website. they might have them there
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I was debating between 178 and 185. The benefit of 178 is that you can run stacked pulley with 178 and Code 3 SC pulley to give you similar boost to 185. I've read about this on Crossfire forum.
You will have to do a retune if you run stacked 178 and Code 3 SC though to make sure your afr is safe.
You will have to do a retune if you run stacked 178 and Code 3 SC though to make sure your afr is safe.
I'd say a Code 3 stacked to a 178 or 181 is probably the optimal way to go for pulley mods. Add a Tune and Quaife and you've got a legitimate 12.4-12.5 car .
and as Josh says, the cooling is very important............
Last edited by Newzchspy; Feb 17, 2011 at 06:42 PM.
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From: Philadelphia, PA
2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
Kleemann pulley kit, Kleemann ECU tune, Kleemann LTHs w/ DPs, res delete, stock intake w/ K&Ns, EC HE, CM30. Happy with both the performance (quite noticeable over stock) and the reliability.
Would try the SL55 intake, but like having my front engine cover and don't want to hack it up to use it. I know, that sounds dumb.
Would try the SL55 intake, but like having my front engine cover and don't want to hack it up to use it. I know, that sounds dumb.
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2002 C32, 2012 S550
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C32, 911 SC
Definitely do a tune if you decide to run 178+Code 3 pullies, or you can do 185+tune and call it a day and maybe sell your 178 separately.
Some people mentioned CEL blinking for running 185 with no tune. I did run 185 without a tune for a week and had to keep my rpm under 5K, that was the hardest week for my right foot
I would also do a dyno run to check for your baseline. But some of the faster C32s runs the following mods for maximum hp:
1. 185 mm pulley
2. ECU tune (dyno tune preferably)
3. SL55 Intake (y-pipe and snorkels) + K&N filters
4. Shorty headers (LTH is very expensive)
And our cars are prone to heatsoak and other things, so the following are required to ensure performance consistencies, increase reliability and get the most out of your mods:
1. Heat exchanger
2. IC pump
3. Intercooler separation kit
4. Needswings Pulley Saver Kit
5. NGK one step colder plugs
6. Resonator delete (better sound)
7. Secondary cats delete
8. R-compound tires
I am sure I am forgetting something, but that's all I can think of now. My car dynoed 297 whp/298 trq when I was stock on a Dynojet and a hot 100F temperature to give you an idea. I still need to do another dyno runs to see where I am at now.
Some people mentioned CEL blinking for running 185 with no tune. I did run 185 without a tune for a week and had to keep my rpm under 5K, that was the hardest week for my right foot
I would also do a dyno run to check for your baseline. But some of the faster C32s runs the following mods for maximum hp:
1. 185 mm pulley
2. ECU tune (dyno tune preferably)
3. SL55 Intake (y-pipe and snorkels) + K&N filters
4. Shorty headers (LTH is very expensive)
And our cars are prone to heatsoak and other things, so the following are required to ensure performance consistencies, increase reliability and get the most out of your mods:
1. Heat exchanger
2. IC pump
3. Intercooler separation kit
4. Needswings Pulley Saver Kit
5. NGK one step colder plugs
6. Resonator delete (better sound)
7. Secondary cats delete
8. R-compound tires
I am sure I am forgetting something, but that's all I can think of now. My car dynoed 297 whp/298 trq when I was stock on a Dynojet and a hot 100F temperature to give you an idea. I still need to do another dyno runs to see where I am at now.
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Definitely do a tune if you decide to run 178+Code 3 pullies, or you can do 185+tune and call it a day and maybe sell your 178 separately.
Some people mentioned CEL blinking for running 185 with no tune. I did run 185 without a tune for a week and had to keep my rpm under 5K, that was the hardest week for my right foot
I would also do a dyno run to check for your baseline. But some of the faster C32s runs the following mods for maximum hp:
1. 185 mm pulley
2. ECU tune (dyno tune preferably)
3. SL55 Intake (y-pipe and snorkels) + K&N filters
4. Shorty headers (LTH is very expensive)
And our cars are prone to heatsoak and other things, so the following are required to ensure performance consistencies, increase reliability and get the most out of your mods:
1. Heat exchanger
2. IC pump
3. Intercooler separation kit
4. Needswings Pulley Saver Kit
5. NGK one step colder plugs
6. Resonator delete (better sound)
7. Secondary cats delete
8. R-compound tires
I am sure I am forgetting something, but that's all I can think of now. My car dynoed 297 whp/298 trq when I was stock on a Dynojet and a hot 100F temperature to give you an idea. I still need to do another dyno runs to see where I am at now.
Some people mentioned CEL blinking for running 185 with no tune. I did run 185 without a tune for a week and had to keep my rpm under 5K, that was the hardest week for my right foot
I would also do a dyno run to check for your baseline. But some of the faster C32s runs the following mods for maximum hp:
1. 185 mm pulley
2. ECU tune (dyno tune preferably)
3. SL55 Intake (y-pipe and snorkels) + K&N filters
4. Shorty headers (LTH is very expensive)
And our cars are prone to heatsoak and other things, so the following are required to ensure performance consistencies, increase reliability and get the most out of your mods:
1. Heat exchanger
2. IC pump
3. Intercooler separation kit
4. Needswings Pulley Saver Kit
5. NGK one step colder plugs
6. Resonator delete (better sound)
7. Secondary cats delete
8. R-compound tires
I am sure I am forgetting something, but that's all I can think of now. My car dynoed 297 whp/298 trq when I was stock on a Dynojet and a hot 100F temperature to give you an idea. I still need to do another dyno runs to see where I am at now.
+1, cept for # 1 above. There are some very strong running C32s with the Code 3 pulley and other mods you list. It may not give the pure boost of the 185, BUT I have never heard of anyone having to worry about throwing a CEL with it either. I have never thrown a CEL with mine BUT C32 Used has thrown many a CEL with his 185.
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+1, cept for # 1 above. There are some very strong running C32s with the Code 3 pulley and other mods you list. It may not give the pure boost of the 185, BUT I have never heard of anyone having to worry about throwing a CEL with it either. I have never thrown a CEL with mine BUT C32 Used has thrown many a CEL with his 185.
On the pulley size. I was the only one running a 185 and c3 pulley stacked. I had new injectors, and upgrading fueling. Remember I also was gasket matched through the plenums and sc, as well as ported everything.
Do a c3 or a 185 (and tune) and call it a day......
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From: Salt Lake City
C32, 911 SC
Newz,
I agree, I guess I should say it depends on where you live whether you'd throw CEL with 185 or not I live 5000 ft above sea level and has never thrown any CEL with my tuned 185.
I was thinking that perhaps the thin air was pulling on the timing, thus the 185 is not giving full boost even in 25 F temperature.
I agree, I guess I should say it depends on where you live whether you'd throw CEL with 185 or not
I live 5000 ft above sea level and has never thrown any CEL with my tuned 185. I was thinking that perhaps the thin air was pulling on the timing, thus the 185 is not giving full boost even in 25 F temperature.
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I agree, I guess I should say it depends on where you live whether you'd throw CEL with 185 or not I live 5000 ft above sea level and has never thrown any CEL with my tuned 185.
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
Newz,
I agree, I guess I should say it depends on where you live whether you'd throw CEL with 185 or not I live 5000 ft above sea level and has never thrown any CEL with my tuned 185.
I was thinking that perhaps the thin air was pulling on the timing, thus the 185 is not giving full boost even in 25 F temperature.
I agree, I guess I should say it depends on where you live whether you'd throw CEL with 185 or not
I live 5000 ft above sea level and has never thrown any CEL with my tuned 185. I was thinking that perhaps the thin air was pulling on the timing, thus the 185 is not giving full boost even in 25 F temperature.
That makes sense. Whereas 185-pullied cars at lower altitude routinely see 22+ PSI max. Just the nature of the beast, when dealing with supercharged systems driven mechanically off of crank rpms. As I understand it, modern turbo motors don't suffer to quite the same extent, as the turbos can be driven relatively harder at altitude to meet the boost targets and lambda values the ECU is looking for.
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From: Salt Lake City
C32, 911 SC
2. ECU tune (dyno tune preferably)
3. SL55 Intake (y-pipe and snorkels) + K&N filters, $350 for 55K intake from parts.com plus $90 for K&N
4. Shorty headers (LTH is very expensive), I heard that headers are a pain to install but figure $700 for shorties or $1300 for LTH
And our cars are prone to heatsoak and other things, so the following are required to ensure performance consistencies, increase reliability and get the most out of your mods:
1. Heat exchanger, $400 ish+$200 installation
2. IC pump, $150+$100 installation
3. Intercooler separation kit, $50
4. Needswings Pulley Saver Kit, $230+install it at once with your crank pulley
5. NGK one step colder plugs $85
6. Resonator delete (better sound) $45
7. Secondary cats delete (tried to do this, but no local shop is willing)
8. R-compound tires
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Newz,
I agree, I guess I should say it depends on where you live whether you'd throw CEL with 185 or not I live 5000 ft above sea level and has never thrown any CEL with my tuned 185.
I was thinking that perhaps the thin air was pulling on the timing, thus the 185 is not giving full boost even in 25 F temperature.
I agree, I guess I should say it depends on where you live whether you'd throw CEL with 185 or not
I live 5000 ft above sea level and has never thrown any CEL with my tuned 185. I was thinking that perhaps the thin air was pulling on the timing, thus the 185 is not giving full boost even in 25 F temperature.
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Code 3 (if found) , 181 or 185 crank with Tune, less than a thousand bucks.........EC has a special on them and no one knows the C32 like Jake from EC.........(he had one)
Again, if you go with 181 or 185, you need a Needswings PSK for it too or you'll overdrive everything
