C32 Acceleration
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,318
Likes: 171
From: Silicon Valley, CA
C63 AMG, P30
C32 Acceleration
Hello all,
I recently got a C32. It is in immaculate condition. Here is the deal.
When I drive the car normally and give it gas it pulls really hard. THEN, when I do a solid pull up to redline once the car will feel great. If I do it again within 30 or 45 seconds or even push the car to 5k RPM the car does not pull nearly as hard.
Does any one know what the deal is? Did I get a bad car?
Thanks for the help!
I recently got a C32. It is in immaculate condition. Here is the deal.
When I drive the car normally and give it gas it pulls really hard. THEN, when I do a solid pull up to redline once the car will feel great. If I do it again within 30 or 45 seconds or even push the car to 5k RPM the car does not pull nearly as hard.
Does any one know what the deal is? Did I get a bad car?
Thanks for the help!
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
C32
do a bit of research on this forum, there is plenty of folks that have been thru this if not all C32 owners, yes CM 30 will do well, so as Meriziere, its a DIY job, the pump is located on the front pass side in front of the weel. Wiring will required some mods.
good luck
good luck
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 360
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
2018 GLE350
Sounds like an issue I was having just last week. Red line would cause the car to run like a Toyota Prius. (maybe not that bad, but something was definitely wrong 
)
Turned out to be the intercooler pump. Easy and common fix - can be done in less than an hour.
One way to really tell (at least for me) is to run the car on the freeway. Play around a bit (be sure it's nice and warm) and then put the car into 3rd gear. (At the appropriate speed of course) Usually you'll notice issues right around 60mph. Flooring it causes the car to feel like a sluggish V6. And indeed it is because the ECU shuts down the SC. The ECU is ensuring the SC doesn't over heat.
Do quick search on the "Ford Lighting pump C32 DIY" I purchased a pump on ebay that included the wire connector and pump for 110 bucks. (Mbenz charges 375 I think) Once changed out, holy ba jubus that car was fast again
Hope that helps you or some other fellow Googler in the future
PUMP: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Part Number I used: 392022002 (OEM is 392022003)
)Turned out to be the intercooler pump. Easy and common fix - can be done in less than an hour.
One way to really tell (at least for me) is to run the car on the freeway. Play around a bit (be sure it's nice and warm) and then put the car into 3rd gear. (At the appropriate speed of course) Usually you'll notice issues right around 60mph. Flooring it causes the car to feel like a sluggish V6. And indeed it is because the ECU shuts down the SC. The ECU is ensuring the SC doesn't over heat.
Do quick search on the "Ford Lighting pump C32 DIY" I purchased a pump on ebay that included the wire connector and pump for 110 bucks. (Mbenz charges 375 I think) Once changed out, holy ba jubus that car was fast again
Hope that helps you or some other fellow Googler in the future
PUMP: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Part Number I used: 392022002 (OEM is 392022003)
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,318
Likes: 171
From: Silicon Valley, CA
C63 AMG, P30
So it really does seem like it is the intercooler pump. Looks like I'll be ordering that today. I'm going to get the johnson pump since I want to mod my car in the future for more power. Thanks for your help
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City
C32, 911 SC
Another quick way to check whether your IC pump is working or not is by running the car hard, then park it and turn off the engine.
Then quickly run to the front fender (passenger side) by the bumper and listen to the pump humming. If the pump hums, then you're okay. If not, then it needs to be changed.
Good luck and post pictures!
Then quickly run to the front fender (passenger side) by the bumper and listen to the pump humming. If the pump hums, then you're okay. If not, then it needs to be changed.
Good luck and post pictures!
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 360
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
2018 GLE350
I dunno about everyone else here, but I can usually hear mine wind up when I start the car on a warm day after about 15 seconds or so. (Never really timed it to be honest) But you can hear it winding up. It's on the left side of the car right behind the fog light. (Right side if your sitting in the car)
You might also want to check the fuse. It's in the trunk. (7.5 fuse) I can't remember the exact slot. I think maybe slot 6. (Do a search for IC fuse, it's here on mbworld somewhere)
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,152
Likes: 0
From: murfreesboro,tn
2003 porsche 996 turbo
apeusa for 149$. the pump kicks in at 2000 rpm. if you rev the engine after its good and hot and the pump isnt running its toast.
remove the top of the pump and unsolder the electrical connector and the resistor. solder them to the new pump and use heat shrink to seal it up and its now plug and play. wrap the cm30 in a bicycle inner tube to take up the space and the oem mounts now work. done. bleed and retest
remove the top of the pump and unsolder the electrical connector and the resistor. solder them to the new pump and use heat shrink to seal it up and its now plug and play. wrap the cm30 in a bicycle inner tube to take up the space and the oem mounts now work. done. bleed and retest
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,152
Likes: 0
From: murfreesboro,tn
2003 porsche 996 turbo
to do this properly then yes. you could just wrap the wires together but not how i do things. the resistor is to absorb the any excess charge when the pump kicks on so i replaced it with a new resistor and soldered it in place
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
2002 C32 AMG
An I/C pump failure would cause the S/C to cut out completely within a very short period of time. I couldn't do more than 1-2 pulls from 0-60 before it cut the S/C out. You will feel like you have 100HP with the pump cut out. If you're just feeling like the car is a bit more sluggish I don't agree that it's the pump failure. I would say that it's just normal heatsoak. Our engines have serious issues with efficient cooling.
If you could monitor IAT's with a data logger you could also see what's going on. Normal IAT's at WOT are around 50-60ish degrees Celcius. S/C cuts out at exactly 93 degrees Celcius.
If you could monitor IAT's with a data logger you could also see what's going on. Normal IAT's at WOT are around 50-60ish degrees Celcius. S/C cuts out at exactly 93 degrees Celcius.
Last edited by Autotechnica; Jul 12, 2011 at 08:11 AM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,318
Likes: 171
From: Silicon Valley, CA
C63 AMG, P30
An I/C pump failure would cause the S/C to cut out completely within a very short period of time. I couldn't do more than 1-2 pulls from 0-60 before it cut the S/C out. You will feel like you have 100HP with the pump cut out. If you're just feeling like the car is a bit more sluggish I don't agree that it's the pump failure. I would say that it's just normal heatsoak. Our engines have serious issues with efficient cooling.
If you could monitor IAT's with a data logger you could also see what's going on. Normal IAT's at WOT are around 50-60ish degrees Celcius. S/C cuts out at exactly 93 degrees Celcius.
If you could monitor IAT's with a data logger you could also see what's going on. Normal IAT's at WOT are around 50-60ish degrees Celcius. S/C cuts out at exactly 93 degrees Celcius.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City
C32, 911 SC
If you are going to do your IC pump, I would recommend buying an upgraded heat exchanger and ISO kit as well. If you plan on modding your car (sounds like you are), it would also minimize the need to flush the coolants again and again (at $12 a gallon for Zerex G-05, that could be pretty pricey).
I would say that HE is a must on any C32s for consistency reason. Get it now along with ISO kit from needswings and you don't have to worry about your car heatsoaking and can kill M3s left and right
.
I would say that HE is a must on any C32s for consistency reason. Get it now along with ISO kit from needswings and you don't have to worry about your car heatsoaking and can kill M3s left and right
.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City
C32, 911 SC
Get Eurocharged HE (that's the one I have) or I have also heard that some members here have PLM and have nothing but praises for them.
My summer wheels are staggered Brabus replica. I like the look and it doesnt seem that I lose hugely noticable acceleration compared to my stock wheels.
My summer wheels are staggered Brabus replica. I like the look and it doesnt seem that I lose hugely noticable acceleration compared to my stock wheels.
