Hello all,

I recently got a C32. It is in immaculate condition. Here is the deal.

When I drive the car normally and give it gas it pulls really hard. THEN, when I do a solid pull up to redline once the car will feel great. If I do it again within 30 or 45 seconds or even push the car to 5k RPM the car does not pull nearly as hard.

Does any one know what the deal is? Did I get a bad car?

Thanks for the help!

heat exchanger issue, most probably a bad intercooler pump

why do you say that? Can I get a Johnson CM30 and how hard is the install?

do a bit of research on this forum, there is plenty of folks that have been thru this if not all C32 owners, yes CM 30 will do well, so as Meriziere, its a DIY job, the pump is located on the front pass side in front of the weel. Wiring will required some mods.

good luck

Thanks dan, I really appreciate it.

Sounds like an issue I was having just last week. Red line would cause the car to run like a Toyota Prius. (maybe not that bad, but something was definitely wrong )

Turned out to be the intercooler pump. Easy and common fix - can be done in less than an hour.

One way to really tell (at least for me) is to run the car on the freeway. Play around a bit (be sure it's nice and warm) and then put the car into 3rd gear. (At the appropriate speed of course) Usually you'll notice issues right around 60mph. Flooring it causes the car to feel like a sluggish V6. And indeed it is because the ECU shuts down the SC. The ECU is ensuring the SC doesn't over heat.

Do quick search on the "Ford Lighting pump C32 DIY" I purchased a pump on ebay that included the wire connector and pump for 110 bucks. (Mbenz charges 375 I think) Once changed out, holy ba jubus that car was fast again

Hope that helps you or some other fellow Googler in the future

PUMP: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Part Number I used: 392022002 (OEM is 392022003)

So it really does seem like it is the intercooler pump. Looks like I'll be ordering that today. I'm going to get the johnson pump since I want to mod my car in the future for more power. Thanks for your help

Another quick way to check whether your IC pump is working or not is by running the car hard, then park it and turn off the engine.

Then quickly run to the front fender (passenger side) by the bumper and listen to the pump humming. If the pump hums, then you're okay. If not, then it needs to be changed.

Good luck and post pictures!

Alright I'l try that sometime today. Do you mean like redline or just to like 4.5k or so? Thanks for the help.

You don't HAVE to red line, but you at least want to give her a good run around town. The point is to get the SC up and going. If it's getting to hot (which during the summer shouldn't be to hard) the IC pump should engage. If not, well, you know you have an issue.

I dunno about everyone else here, but I can usually hear mine wind up when I start the car on a warm day after about 15 seconds or so. (Never really timed it to be honest) But you can hear it winding up. It's on the left side of the car right behind the fog light. (Right side if your sitting in the car)

You might also want to check the fuse. It's in the trunk. (7.5 fuse) I can't remember the exact slot. I think maybe slot 6. (Do a search for IC fuse, it's here on mbworld somewhere)

I checked the fuse, it seems good. I think I'm just going to have to buy the pump tonight. Does anyone know where I can get it for the best price?

apeusa for 149$. the pump kicks in at 2000 rpm. if you rev the engine after its good and hot and the pump isnt running its toast.
remove the top of the pump and unsolder the electrical connector and the resistor. solder them to the new pump and use heat shrink to seal it up and its now plug and play. wrap the cm30 in a bicycle inner tube to take up the space and the oem mounts now work. done. bleed and retest

Oh so there is soldering involved? I think I should be able to figure it out. Thanks!

to do this properly then yes. you could just wrap the wires together but not how i do things. the resistor is to absorb the any excess charge when the pump kicks on so i replaced it with a new resistor and soldered it in place

Well just like you, I like to do things right the first time. But I just want to make sure I know what I'm doing right.

An I/C pump failure would cause the S/C to cut out completely within a very short period of time. I couldn't do more than 1-2 pulls from 0-60 before it cut the S/C out. You will feel like you have 100HP with the pump cut out. If you're just feeling like the car is a bit more sluggish I don't agree that it's the pump failure. I would say that it's just normal heatsoak. Our engines have serious issues with efficient cooling.

If you could monitor IAT's with a data logger you could also see what's going on. Normal IAT's at WOT are around 50-60ish degrees Celcius. S/C cuts out at exactly 93 degrees Celcius.

Well this is my situation. I can only do a few pulls and then my car literally won't move. I could be like floored and the car would still only gain 5 mph ever few seconds. It is sloowwww

I cannot imagine the engine would perform so poorly after only a few pulls... It's not even sluggish, it's just terribly slow!

If you are going to do your IC pump, I would recommend buying an upgraded heat exchanger and ISO kit as well. If you plan on modding your car (sounds like you are), it would also minimize the need to flush the coolants again and again (at $12 a gallon for Zerex G-05, that could be pretty pricey).

I would say that HE is a must on any C32s for consistency reason. Get it now along with ISO kit from needswings and you don't have to worry about your car heatsoaking and can kill M3s left and right .

hahah I'll check out needswings right now. Btw we have the exact same car . I have a silver c32 with the brabus wheels.

Get Eurocharged HE (that's the one I have) or I have also heard that some members here have PLM and have nothing but praises for them.

My summer wheels are staggered Brabus replica. I like the look and it doesnt seem that I lose hugely noticable acceleration compared to my stock wheels.

Oh nice, mine aren't the reps. But they will be my summer and winter wheels lol I'm actually thinking now about getting a set of winter wheels...