New to me C32 in Das Haus.....brake question
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 189
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2003 C32
New to me C32 in Das Haus.....brake question
Hello. Well things worked out and I've now had my beautiful 2003 C32 for about 2 weeks. I LOVE it. 43K miles.....black/blue interior. Here is a quick exterior shot. 
I'm a previous Audi owner (had a couple of B5 S4's) back in the early 2000's.......but have been away from sport sedans for the last 8 years. Needless to say I'm very happy once again. Nice bonus on this car too........got under it and found that the suspension has been reworked w/ H&R springs/shocks...........and it has aftermarket sways. No markings on the sways, do any of you know the brand by the color
They're a pinkish/purple. 
Anyway, car rides very tight and is pretty darn low so I've got to be careful. Service history is good and IC pump was replaced the day I picked it up. Overall the car really looks and drives like it's a few years old. Only issue I can find is the drivers side roof trim is popping up in the middle of the roof. Got some new clips, maybe that will do the trick?
I do need brake pads. Any suggestions on brand and where to buy. Been out of the game for a while. I was using Ferodo's on my Audi's and really liked them. Rotors are good so I'll replace the pads myself. Any special tips on getting the pistons back to accept new pads? Any special tool needed? How about bleeding and brake fluid. What are you guys using for fluid in these cars? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks guys.
I'm a previous Audi owner (had a couple of B5 S4's) back in the early 2000's.......but have been away from sport sedans for the last 8 years. Needless to say I'm very happy once again. Nice bonus on this car too........got under it and found that the suspension has been reworked w/ H&R springs/shocks...........and it has aftermarket sways. No markings on the sways, do any of you know the brand by the color
They're a pinkish/purple. Anyway, car rides very tight and is pretty darn low so I've got to be careful. Service history is good and IC pump was replaced the day I picked it up. Overall the car really looks and drives like it's a few years old. Only issue I can find is the drivers side roof trim is popping up in the middle of the roof. Got some new clips, maybe that will do the trick?
I do need brake pads. Any suggestions on brand and where to buy. Been out of the game for a while. I was using Ferodo's on my Audi's and really liked them. Rotors are good so I'll replace the pads myself. Any special tips on getting the pistons back to accept new pads? Any special tool needed? How about bleeding and brake fluid. What are you guys using for fluid in these cars? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks guys.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 189
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2003 C32
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Marlborough, CT
2002 C32 AMG
blue brakes
Hi
I just did the brakes on my C32. I went with factory disks, akebono euro pads, blue racing fluid. Seems to all work OK.
If you do the disks and the disc keeper screws (little screw between 2 of the stud holes so the disk can't fall off/jiggle around when working on the brakes) don't immediately want to come off, don't struggle and break torx bits on them, just drill the beotches out with a 3/8 bit and use an easy-out to extract them.
Get a couple from the dealer before starting, though. It sucks to have to stop half way through the job because you don't have a couple of near - worthless screws. They are a couple of bucks apiece @ the dealer. Buy a new brake wear sensor, also. Couldn't re-use mine.
I used a big 12" c-clamp to push the pistons back in. Loosen the bleed screw first so you don't push potentially dirty/contaminated fluid back into the master cylinder. Put a piece of hose on the bleeder screw so fluid doesn't go all over the place.
I made a vacuum bleeder out of a hand vacuum pump and a pickle jar. vacuum bleeding the brakes is so easy, there is no excuse not to do it and replace the fluid.
Cheers!
I just did the brakes on my C32. I went with factory disks, akebono euro pads, blue racing fluid. Seems to all work OK.
If you do the disks and the disc keeper screws (little screw between 2 of the stud holes so the disk can't fall off/jiggle around when working on the brakes) don't immediately want to come off, don't struggle and break torx bits on them, just drill the beotches out with a 3/8 bit and use an easy-out to extract them.
Get a couple from the dealer before starting, though. It sucks to have to stop half way through the job because you don't have a couple of near - worthless screws. They are a couple of bucks apiece @ the dealer. Buy a new brake wear sensor, also. Couldn't re-use mine.
I used a big 12" c-clamp to push the pistons back in. Loosen the bleed screw first so you don't push potentially dirty/contaminated fluid back into the master cylinder. Put a piece of hose on the bleeder screw so fluid doesn't go all over the place.
I made a vacuum bleeder out of a hand vacuum pump and a pickle jar. vacuum bleeding the brakes is so easy, there is no excuse not to do it and replace the fluid.
Cheers!
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