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The theory is: We don't have enough static camber (I can only get 1.3 degrees with a camber bolt, and not willing to use a washer), and as the car rolls during cornering, the outside wheel leans the wrong way (positive camber), which reduces grip. A bigger front bar reduces roll, and therefore reduces the detrimental camber change, and lowers the net loss of grip. Reducing roll-induced camber change offsets the weight transfer.
ONLY ADJUSTMENT DEALERS OR ALIGNMENT SHOPS HAVE TO WORK WITH IS FRONT AND REAR TOE !
NO CAMBER OR CASTER TO RESOLVE PREMATURE/COSTLY EDGE TIRE WEAR, STEERING PULL OR TO COMPENSATE FOR ALTERING HEIGHT, LOAD CARRYING, FITTING WIDE PROFILE TIRES/WHEELS OR SIMPLY HAVING ONGOING ADJUSTMENT CAPABILITY TO RETURN TO FACTORY SPECS AFTER CURB KNOCK DAMAGE.
TRACK DAYS BEING ABLE TO REDUCE UNDERSTEER/LAPTIMES – BY GOING DEEPER INTO THE CORNERS WITH IMPROVED TRACTION AND BRAKING RESPONSE!
CAMBER – Allows to actually change the tire contact angle resolving costly, premature edge tire wear, improving traction/understeer/oversteer (TOE only alters wheel direction).
CASTER – Correctly resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control, along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
No more ongoing trips to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands because of Toe only adjustment OEM. Or the frustration of installing (Front only) ‘offset’ bolts – to find they are inaccurate one only position – offering a minimal .3 of one degree!
We have changed all that. Up to 4 times the adjustment range of these “one” position bolts. With single wrench precise adjustment and importantly - on car accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack!
This K-MAC patented design breakthrough of on car adjustment has also eliminated the need over the last 40 or so years of time consuming disassembly each time to change settings.
Front bushings have twice the load bearing area of OEM. Yet still 2 axis/self aligning without the use of oil and air voids. Allowing also improved brake and steering response.
Rear bushings provide precise Camber for the first time and extra Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility.
Both front and rear kits come with instructions and bush extraction and insertion tubes.
W203 Front Camber and Caster kit #502216K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kit #502526K $480
MB World members (USA/Canada) delivery $30 one kit or $40 front and rear.
Can pay by PayPal or call our toll free number 1888 414 0762 to quote Visa or MasterCard.
My apologies to FutureAMGXX for the digression on your thread... :>
My experience after one autocross and a track day is that going to a bigger front H&R bar has made the car more balanced, and I believe it has reduced the front understeer. Power-on oversteer is more controllable with the OEM rear bar than with the H&R. All of this is with the stock springs.
The theory is: We don't have enough static camber (I can only get 1.3 degrees with a camber bolt, and not willing to use a washer), and as the car rolls during cornering, the outside wheel leans the wrong way (positive camber), which reduces grip. A bigger front bar reduces roll, and therefore reduces the detrimental camber change, and lowers the net loss of grip. Reducing roll-induced camber change offsets the weight transfer.
Got a few new things done. I replaced the passenger front door check strap and added an aux input cable!
Also a few weeks ago after I got the rear sway bar installed, I had the local muffler shop do a true dual exhaust and x pipe from the secondaries back! (Almost like picture below)
I also found these cool door piddle light projectors. I was just going to replace the bulbs with LEDs, but decided to get these instead!
Got a few new things done. I replaced the passenger front door check strap and added an aux input cable!
Also a few weeks ago after I got the rear sway bar installed, I had the local muffler shop do a true dual exhaust and x pipe from the secondaries back! (Almost like picture below)
I also found these cool door piddle light projectors. I was just going to replace the bulbs with LEDs, but decided to get these instead!
At night:
Lights look Kool I put led in mine, and I had to change the drivers side door check strap to.
Just got my wheels back from powder coating today! I think they turned out great!!
Before:
After:
The old tires that came on there when I bought it were getting some pretty serious inside shoulder wear. I went ahead and put new Toyo Proxes T1 Sports on all the way around!
Last edited by FutureAMGxx; 05-27-2016 at 10:35 PM.
I assume that a CLK63 caliper? I have the same brakes all round, amazing stopping power.
Thanks! Yes basically, they came off an 05 slk55 the 340mm 6pot! I also have the 4 pot rears. Getting ready to sandblast and repaint them!
Did you end up putting a 2.5mm spacer on the fronts if you used the c55 rotor?
Last edited by FutureAMGxx; 05-29-2016 at 08:15 PM.
Well my stock brakes were pretty worn, so yeah its a big difference.
The brakes were amazing on track, I was out breaking a 355 Ferrari, and they just kept hauling the car down from 100+ over and over without breaking sweat. They work better once there a bit hotter, that's noticeable difference from stock.
Well my stock brakes were pretty worn, so yeah its a big difference.
The brakes were amazing on track, I was out breaking a 355 Ferrari, and they just kept hauling the car down from 100+ over and over without breaking sweat. They work better once there a bit hotter, that's noticeable difference from stock.
They also look a million times better, lol.
Awesome! Yes I have read they are pretty amazing and one of the best mods! Very excited!
I finally got my brake upgrade finished!! I ended up getting 6 piston front calipers off of a 2005 SLK55 AMG and 4 piston rear calipers off of a 2006 CLK AMG. I bought them from another member on this forum from Australia. They took quite a while to get here but when they finally arrived I got to work; starting by stripping the paint off. I repainted the calipers a nice yellow color with an engine/caliper paint from the auto parts store using several coats of primer, followed by color, stickers, and clear coat. The calipers came with only rear pads so I ordered front pads for the SLK55 calipers along with C55 front rotors and S55k rear rotors. I also ordered kevlar lined braided brake cables and 3 bottles of Red Line track brake fluid.
Today I got it all put together and on the car resulting in a much more attractive and way better braking C55! The calipers only required a small spacer on the front and the rear for fitment!
I also had to trim off part of the rear rotor shields so that the bigger calipers would fit!
03-22-2016, 01:27 AM
