Preparations all done ready for my 65mm pulley and Eurocharged remap
In preparation for it's power hike I treated it to some new parts with a new fuel filter, new panel filters I also have a Code 3 intake style modification so it should breath great anyway and also a new set of NGK Iridium plugs.
While switching the plugs I started by first removing 1 plug per cylinder and carrying out a compression test for no reason other than to make sure the engine is in good health which they are all good compression and all within 4psi of each other and all the plugs (Bosch platinum tip) are all in great condition showing there all firing clean.
Fuel filter and plugs were last changed 32K ago:


I made a tool years ago to get the plug leads off these Merc's which makes getting them off easy and as usual it made light work of getting them off especially given the limited space on the rear cylinders it's not pretty as it only took about 2 minuets to knock up but it works great:



While under the air boxes I addressed the breather box leaks both sides more so the left bank, it had new cam cover gaskets a short while ago but they didn't see or realise the breather boxes where also leaking:




That leaves just a few more jobs to get done as the parts are not coming till tomorrow so I'll know what I'm doing tomorrow night.
I noticed the oil filter housing to block and oil filter housing to oil cooler are both leaking so I ordered the genuine seals which should be delivered tomorrow morning so will also change the oil and filter at the same time:



My pulley will also arrive tomorrow so I'll pop that on too and while I'm at it I change the bearings in both the Idler pulley's and the tensioner pulley with the new uprated ones I have 6303ZZ bearings for the idler and tensioner and for the supercharger idler I have a 6203ZZ , the stock bearings are rated to 15,000rpm and my new ones are 17,000rpm and just generally a better quality bearing and there a hell of a lot cheaper than new pulley's.
In preparation for it's power hike I treated it to some new parts with a new fuel filter, new panel filters I also have a Code 3 intake style modification so it should breath great anyway and also a new set of NGK Iridium plugs.
While switching the plugs I started by first removing 1 plug per cylinder and carrying out a compression test for no reason other than to make sure the engine is in good health which they are all good compression and all within 4psi of each other and all the plugs (Bosch platinum tip) are all in great condition showing there all firing clean.
Fuel filter and plugs were last changed 32K ago:


I made a tool years ago to get the plug leads off these Merc's which makes getting them off easy and as usual it made light work of getting them off especially given the limited space on the rear cylinders it's not pretty as it only took about 2 minuets to knock up but it works great:



While under the air boxes I addressed the breather box leaks both sides more so the left bank, it had new cam cover gaskets a short while ago but they didn't see or realise the breather boxes where also leaking:




That leaves just a few more jobs to get done as the parts are not coming till tomorrow so I'll know what I'm doing tomorrow night.
I noticed the oil filter housing to block and oil filter housing to oil cooler are both leaking so I ordered the genuine seals which should be delivered tomorrow morning so will also change the oil and filter at the same time:



My pulley will also arrive tomorrow so I'll pop that on too and while I'm at it I change the bearings in both the Idler pulley's and the tensioner pulley with the new uprated ones I have 6303ZZ bearings for the idler and tensioner and for the supercharger idler I have a 6203ZZ , the stock bearings are rated to 15,000rpm and my new ones are 17,000rpm and just generally a better quality bearing and there a hell of a lot cheaper than new pulley's.




I only had about the amount sandwich out as there was before I removed them and it seems to look worse than it was as it was minimal really.
I'm happy to DIY as it's my trade I'm a garage owner of a long established garage that I've been part of for 16 years and the garage has been in business with my current business partner since 1965
Last edited by dpbayly; Feb 8, 2016 at 03:42 PM.



On the way home I had the Torque app running on the phone to just see if there was a difference so I accelerated not to hard and only up to 5000rpm and my boost reached just under 18psi so it all looks good and on target,
I wont push it any more till after the remap at Eurocharged, I know people do just bolt the pulley on and go but I'd rather know for sure my fuelling is running spot on.
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On the way home I had the Torque app running on the phone to just see if there was a difference so I accelerated not to hard and only up to 5000rpm and my boost reached just under 18psi so it all looks good and on target,
I wont push it any more till after the remap at Eurocharged, I know people do just bolt the pulley on and go but I'd rather know for sure my fuelling is running spot on.
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They offered the steel or duraluminium one at the same price £230 GBP delivered, I went with the steel one only because of other people's misfortune with the aluminium ones from other manufactures.

Check out this video I made of the old idler. Caught it just in time I'm thinking, strangely it made no noticeable noise on the car under tension luckily I checked all the idlers and tensioner when I fitted the new 65mm pulley the other night:




I'll look this belt wrap kit up later.
I've just got back from my day at Eurocharged where they mapped it for the intake and pulley and WOW what a difference it's like a different car,
It's so quick I love it
The reported way to do this is to modify the centre cap like I have then also trim the bulk head rubber seal in the centre which is what I did.



