C55: Eurocharged shorties are in!
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
C55: Eurocharged shorties are in!
I finally got around to installing the shorty headers in my C55. It was fairly simple but not something I'd look forward to doing on my back in the driveway. That isn't to say you can't do it there. Having a lift available was a big bonus.
I left the car at work on Friday so it wouldn't be cooking from the 30 minute drive up there. Saturday morning, a friend picked me up and we hit the shop about 9:00. Once the air cleaner and air intake tubes were off the car we pulled the plug wires. Popping the bolt off the coils allow you to flip them up onto the intake and out of the way. We then picked it up and went after the exhaust. The pipes came off the manifolds with the aid of a 14" extension with a wobbly 10mm socket made onto it. Big help there. Then, we dropped the bolts holding it to the transmission. The rubber hangers didn't want to let go so we unbolted the hangers from the car and set the entire exhaust aside in one piece.
The manifold nuts came off without too much fuss. A 10mm wrench and 1/4" drive ratchet made short work of it. A short extension, a common socket, and a deep socket did the trick. It's easy to bump the starter lead so you might want to disconnect your battery first. Expect the manifold nuts to pull some studs out but that's no big deal. You can remove the nuts and spin the studs back in later. The manifolds drop out with plenty of clearance.
Removing the steering column extension and popping the bottom bolt of the engine mount lets you rock the engine to the side and provides plenty of clearance to slide the headers in.
It all went back together without issue. At first glance it was looking ugly for some of the manifold nuts but there was better access than I expected.
It was all buttoned up (after considerable polishing of the exhaust tips to remove black overspray) and good to go around 4:00.
There's plenty of clearance everywhere and the exhaust fits properly. I have not noticed any extra noise from them.
It's good stuff. This old hot rodder gives them two thumbs up.
I left the car at work on Friday so it wouldn't be cooking from the 30 minute drive up there. Saturday morning, a friend picked me up and we hit the shop about 9:00. Once the air cleaner and air intake tubes were off the car we pulled the plug wires. Popping the bolt off the coils allow you to flip them up onto the intake and out of the way. We then picked it up and went after the exhaust. The pipes came off the manifolds with the aid of a 14" extension with a wobbly 10mm socket made onto it. Big help there. Then, we dropped the bolts holding it to the transmission. The rubber hangers didn't want to let go so we unbolted the hangers from the car and set the entire exhaust aside in one piece.
The manifold nuts came off without too much fuss. A 10mm wrench and 1/4" drive ratchet made short work of it. A short extension, a common socket, and a deep socket did the trick. It's easy to bump the starter lead so you might want to disconnect your battery first. Expect the manifold nuts to pull some studs out but that's no big deal. You can remove the nuts and spin the studs back in later. The manifolds drop out with plenty of clearance.
Removing the steering column extension and popping the bottom bolt of the engine mount lets you rock the engine to the side and provides plenty of clearance to slide the headers in.
It all went back together without issue. At first glance it was looking ugly for some of the manifold nuts but there was better access than I expected.
It was all buttoned up (after considerable polishing of the exhaust tips to remove black overspray) and good to go around 4:00.
There's plenty of clearance everywhere and the exhaust fits properly. I have not noticed any extra noise from them.
It's good stuff. This old hot rodder gives them two thumbs up.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
There may be a bit of a performance difference on an otherwise mechanically stock engine but the effect is cumulative when combined with other mods. Long tubes would make a nice difference but I'm not interesting in spending $2000 to get 15 hp.
These things should get along nicely when I move to better cats. They'll be even nicer should I drop a 113k in it or add a bottle.
Why did I do it?
Well, I'm a hot rodder and these were cheap.
I spent the last 3 years commuting in a spunky (but not fast) little Chrysler 200 Super S. The year before that was spent in a smart. Prior to the smart the main ride was a Chrysler Concorde Limited. You have to go back too many years to find my SRT6 daily driver.
I got through it by driving my twin turbocharged 7.2 liter 1965 Plymouth. That car is now gone and I'm using the C55 to scratch my itch until I can build my roadster.
#6
Shorty headers rarely make a difference in sound compared to manifolds. Sometimes you hear a bit more of the engine due to the thinner walls (compared to iron manifolds) and multiple tubes vs the single log we have.
There may be a bit of a performance difference on an otherwise mechanically stock engine but the effect is cumulative when combined with other mods. Long tubes would make a nice difference but I'm not interesting in spending $2000 to get 15 hp.
These things should get along nicely when I move to better cats. They'll be even nicer should I drop a 113k in it or add a bottle.
Why did I do it?
Well, I'm a hot rodder and these were cheap.
I spent the last 3 years commuting in a spunky (but not fast) little Chrysler 200 Super S. The year before that was spent in a smart. Prior to the smart the main ride was a Chrysler Concorde Limited. You have to go back too many years to find my SRT6 daily driver.
I got through it by driving my twin turbocharged 7.2 liter 1965 Plymouth. That car is now gone and I'm using the C55 to scratch my itch until I can build my roadster.
There may be a bit of a performance difference on an otherwise mechanically stock engine but the effect is cumulative when combined with other mods. Long tubes would make a nice difference but I'm not interesting in spending $2000 to get 15 hp.
These things should get along nicely when I move to better cats. They'll be even nicer should I drop a 113k in it or add a bottle.
Why did I do it?
Well, I'm a hot rodder and these were cheap.
I spent the last 3 years commuting in a spunky (but not fast) little Chrysler 200 Super S. The year before that was spent in a smart. Prior to the smart the main ride was a Chrysler Concorde Limited. You have to go back too many years to find my SRT6 daily driver.
I got through it by driving my twin turbocharged 7.2 liter 1965 Plymouth. That car is now gone and I'm using the C55 to scratch my itch until I can build my roadster.
Keep us updated when you get to the cats, would love to learn what that process might look like.
#7
Cool. I just found the Eurocharged headers on Amazon for $500, and I might just do it.
I'm unfamiliar with what to do with the cats, do the new headers bolt right up to the existing cats?
What would you recommend replacing the stock cats with (besides just a pipe, I'd like to be legal). Just magnaflow universal cats?
I'm unfamiliar with what to do with the cats, do the new headers bolt right up to the existing cats?
What would you recommend replacing the stock cats with (besides just a pipe, I'd like to be legal). Just magnaflow universal cats?
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The Eurocharged shorties bolt up to the factory cats. I didn't have to change or modify anything.
If you want to change the exhaust, go with a decent pair of cats and ditch the 4 stock pieces.
If you want to change the exhaust, go with a decent pair of cats and ditch the 4 stock pieces.
#9
Hey Feets, that again for the help in the other thread with the fuel sending unit. Glad to get that squared away.
Now, onto the exciting stuff... I've got my Eurocharged headers still in their box in the trunk of my car. Looking forward to getting them on, however I wanted to make sure I get all of the necessary equipment before I start taking things apart.
From my understanding, I'll need new manifold gaskets (8 separate ones), as well as new copper bolts for the studs. Would you recommend anything else? Did you get new seals for the cats?
Thanks!
Now, onto the exciting stuff... I've got my Eurocharged headers still in their box in the trunk of my car. Looking forward to getting them on, however I wanted to make sure I get all of the necessary equipment before I start taking things apart.
From my understanding, I'll need new manifold gaskets (8 separate ones), as well as new copper bolts for the studs. Would you recommend anything else? Did you get new seals for the cats?
Thanks!
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Expect several of the exhaust studs to come out with the nuts.
Check your header box. It likely has some hardware included.
The cats might need some new hardware in the back. Instead of separating the cats I dropped the exhaust in one piece.
The plug wires will need to be removed so it's a good time to throw plugs at it if needed.
Check your header box. It likely has some hardware included.
The cats might need some new hardware in the back. Instead of separating the cats I dropped the exhaust in one piece.
The plug wires will need to be removed so it's a good time to throw plugs at it if needed.