power loss
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s/c 99 c43 amg
power loss
ok im new here though maybe someone can help me with the problem im having with my 99 c43, here goes, when i get on it the car goes but when it shifts into next gear it slows drastically then picks up again after a couple of rpms, any ideas of what might be wrong? i was thinking maf. or def something electric maybe. i replace fuel filter k&n drop in filters and sparkplugs jus for tune up runs better but still does the same. any help or sugestions are apreciated.
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Enterprise rent-a-car!!!
Could be the air mass sensor. Good way to test is reduce the load on the engine (ie less gas pedal input) see if it shifts better and has more power.
#5
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Ditch the K/N filters
they will ruin a maf.
Go to harbor freight tools and pick up the 94169 obd2 scanner,under 50 bucks and handy to have if it saves even one trip to the stealership.Or go to autozone and get the codes read for free.Post em here when you get them,and pm me also in case I am busy on the 210 forum.
Get the codes,do not go to the dealer,it can be fixed if you don't mind a little diy.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
Go to harbor freight tools and pick up the 94169 obd2 scanner,under 50 bucks and handy to have if it saves even one trip to the stealership.Or go to autozone and get the codes read for free.Post em here when you get them,and pm me also in case I am busy on the 210 forum.
Get the codes,do not go to the dealer,it can be fixed if you don't mind a little diy.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Yep, as 'ohlord' stated - I ditched the K&N's, whether it affects the MAF either way has been a point of contention repeatedly on the forum. My view is the gains in HP are miniscule and the MAF is not cheap. Changing the MAF is a ten minute job. When my CEL was on in my vehicle, my code reader indicated, P01710 and P0173, which was fuel trim right, left bank, respectively.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
yea i figured it would be the maf, my buddy has a reader he brought home from ray catena so ill ask him to see what codes its throwing, and ill post it up, thank you guys for the great help.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
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Well, ten minutes vs. $300 - at least it was worth a try. I am puzzled by the MAF theory though. Our runs fine except during the 1-2 shift. It acts like the timing retard during the shift is too long. Also, it doesn't do it every time. So, while I don't doubt the folks that are recommending a new MAF I am having trouble understanding why it works. Why does the MAF pick that one moment to screw up? I have had MAFs fail before and it was much more consistent.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Don't be too puzzled as these cars age, there are all kinds of areas that will eventually need your attention, especially electrical. You have 02 sensors (four), fore and aft of the catalytics, a Crank Position Sensor (which if you have not replaced, I would encourage you to, easy DIY as well) and all kinds of thermocouples, sensors, air pump, etc...these cars are very fickle. I love my C43, however, I think it's a fragile car. BTW - I hope you at least did a flush & fill on your transmission.
Contact a couple sellers on the 'bay' - I got mine for under two bills shipped and was a genuine Bosch, yellow-boxed MAF. My original was cleaned twice to no avail - completely disassembling it, including the security torx, and ended up being a complete waste of my time. All the symptoms you're describing point to a bad MAF. If I have not said it before, It's a very easy DIY. Part numbers are below...
0 280 217 810 and 113 094 00 48
Contact a couple sellers on the 'bay' - I got mine for under two bills shipped and was a genuine Bosch, yellow-boxed MAF. My original was cleaned twice to no avail - completely disassembling it, including the security torx, and ended up being a complete waste of my time. All the symptoms you're describing point to a bad MAF. If I have not said it before, It's a very easy DIY. Part numbers are below...
0 280 217 810 and 113 094 00 48
Last edited by StapleGun; 10-24-2007 at 08:36 AM.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
Don't be too puzzled as these cars age, there are all kinds of areas that will eventually need your attention, especially electrical. You have 02 sensors (four), fore and aft of the catalytics, a Crank Position Sensor (which if you have not replaced, I would encourage you to, easy DIY as well) and all kinds of thermocouples, sensors, air pump, etc...these cars are very fickle. I love my C43, however, I think it's a fragile car. BTW - I hope you at least did a flush & fill on your transmission.
Contact a couple sellers on the 'bay' - I got mine for under two bills shipped and was a genuine Bosch, yellow-boxed MAF. My original was cleaned twice to no avail - completely disassembling it, including the security torx, and ended up being a complete waste of my time. All the symptoms you're describing point to a bad MAF. If I have not said it before, It's a very easy DIY. Part numbers are below...
0 280 217 810 and 113 094 00 48
Contact a couple sellers on the 'bay' - I got mine for under two bills shipped and was a genuine Bosch, yellow-boxed MAF. My original was cleaned twice to no avail - completely disassembling it, including the security torx, and ended up being a complete waste of my time. All the symptoms you're describing point to a bad MAF. If I have not said it before, It's a very easy DIY. Part numbers are below...
0 280 217 810 and 113 094 00 48
yea i problem continues, and i did try cleaning my maf but like u said complete waste of time ,i gonna order one today 250 isnt that bad, so ill let you all know with this problem if it is in fact the maf if ot u wont have to waste your money but im 99% sure that thats what it is.
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StapleGun - Thanks. I am very familiar with the O2 sensor setup, transmission, etc. It is essentially the same as our 1999 E430 and 2000 C280SE. The C43 only has 42K on it so it is fairly young as these cars go. Since it code free and runs flawlessly otherwise, I think I will wait a bit and see what happens with e30t387's car. I am also looking into other cars that may use the same sensor internals, i.e. the sensor itself less the housing. On the VR6 VW's we found that the sensor for a 2.0 was the same. We could buy a 2.0 MAF for a fraction of the price of a VR6 MAF and then swap the sensor from housing to housing.
Otherwise, I really haven't had much trouble with the mechanical side of the 112/113 series motors and engine management systems nor the 722.6 transmissions. I do the plugs every 4 years and do the trans every 30-40K (at least the 1999's have a converter drain). I have never had a CPS fail, although I changed the one in the E430 as a precaution at about 40K. The C280SE is over 100K on the original. I guess I just have good luck.
I don't agree with changing the plug wires. They are solid core and as long as one doesn't disturb the coil end, which has a somewhat fragile brass connector, they will last forever just like all the old M-B wires.
Otherwise, I really haven't had much trouble with the mechanical side of the 112/113 series motors and engine management systems nor the 722.6 transmissions. I do the plugs every 4 years and do the trans every 30-40K (at least the 1999's have a converter drain). I have never had a CPS fail, although I changed the one in the E430 as a precaution at about 40K. The C280SE is over 100K on the original. I guess I just have good luck.
I don't agree with changing the plug wires. They are solid core and as long as one doesn't disturb the coil end, which has a somewhat fragile brass connector, they will last forever just like all the old M-B wires.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
If that part is a fraction of the price (MAF sensor) keep us posted as to where to find and the price, if it's substantially cheaper I'm sure many of us will buy spares.
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StapleGun - MBHustla868 may have some info in this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c43-amg-w202/215243-tune-up-sugestions.html. We'll see.
For the VW's a 2.0 sensor was $50 and a VR6 was $300 - big savings. But I already checked and the 2.0 sensor carries a Bosch Part No. of F 00C 2G2 025. The C43 sensor is F 00C 2G2 032 so no match there. The numbers are on the sensor itself, not the housing.
For the VW's a 2.0 sensor was $50 and a VR6 was $300 - big savings. But I already checked and the 2.0 sensor carries a Bosch Part No. of F 00C 2G2 025. The C43 sensor is F 00C 2G2 032 so no match there. The numbers are on the sensor itself, not the housing.
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ohlord's post on another thread is a great alterantive to buying the whole MAF
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=215243
That is exactly what I was hoping to find.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=215243
That is exactly what I was hoping to find.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
so i typed in our maf part number on google and it took me to the vw vortex forums apparently our sensor is the same as the vr6 and apparently the 2.0 8v as well , dont quote me on that but thats what i saw im pretty sure im right. if so u can pick up a 2.0 maf for real cheap.
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The thread over on vwvortex is where I found the thread about changing the sensor instead of the entire MAF. However, the Part No. for the 2.0 sensor is different than that on our C43 - I mentioned this in an earlier post on this thread. Apparently you found that it works OK (the Audi sensor is the same Part No. as the 2.0 sensor). Still, the germanstar part is correct and costs less.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
The thread over on vwvortex is where I found the thread about changing the sensor instead of the entire MAF. However, the Part No. for the 2.0 sensor is different than that on our C43 - I mentioned this in an earlier post on this thread. Apparently you found that it works OK (the Audi sensor is the same Part No. as the 2.0 sensor). Still, the germanstar part is correct and costs less.
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98 c43, 2004 e55, 1997 toyota supra turbo, 1994 rx7 LS6/T56
you might able to get a airmass for cheap, but you will still need to relearn all your throttle stops, angles, and reset the fuel adaptation after the airmass replacement. I think it can be only done thru the MB diagnostic tool.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Hey OPTION - Once my MAF was replaced, my car immediately ran better and have not seen the CEL since...it was a simple plug and go, no diagnostic tool required BTW.