tune up sugestions
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s/c 99 c43 amg
tune up sugestions
ok so my c43 has got 80,000k, looks like driver side head needs new gasket too, could that be one of the reasons y the car doesnt feel as strong?? i replaced fuel filter cut out everything from inside of air box for better flow and seemed like it made a noticible differnce. what else can i change as far as tune up wise?
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s/c 99 c43 amg
lol, maf is already out. where can i find decent price plug wires theyr kinda pricey on the net. also should i replace my crank sensor ive heard they go bad just like the maf.
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#5
prob not the headgasket but its the valve cover gasket that needs replacing.
air, fuel, oil, trannsmission, and cabin filter will need to be replaced.
if u do swap the maf just buy the one from the audi 1.8turbo and swap the housings so u can save youself 360 dollars.
air, fuel, oil, trannsmission, and cabin filter will need to be replaced.
if u do swap the maf just buy the one from the audi 1.8turbo and swap the housings so u can save youself 360 dollars.
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MBHustla858 - So you are saying that the sensor from the Audi is the same sensor as the C43. I took the following Bosch Part No. from the sensor on our C43 - F 00C 2G2 032. Are you able to confirm that the Audi sensor is the same? Do you know if the VW 1.8T sensor is the same?
The cheapest I have found the VW sensor is about $150 from 1stvwparts.
The cheapest I have found the VW sensor is about $150 from 1stvwparts.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
prob not the headgasket but its the valve cover gasket that needs replacing.
air, fuel, oil, trannsmission, and cabin filter will need to be replaced.
if u do swap the maf just buy the one from the audi 1.8turbo and swap the housings so u can save youself 360 dollars.
air, fuel, oil, trannsmission, and cabin filter will need to be replaced.
if u do swap the maf just buy the one from the audi 1.8turbo and swap the housings so u can save youself 360 dollars.
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e30t387 - If MBHustla858 is correct basically you remove two 5 point security screws from each housing, take the sensor out of the Audi housing and insert it into your housing. I believe the VW 1.8T MAFs are the same as the Audi 1.8T MAFs. 1stvwparts.com sells the VW part for about $150.
The question I have asked MBHustla858 is he can confirm the Audi sensor part number with the one I posted for our C43.
The question I have asked MBHustla858 is he can confirm the Audi sensor part number with the one I posted for our C43.
#10
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Plugs at 100,000
Trans fluid and filter,if not done already.
Leave the wires alone,if not abused when the plugs are changed properly they will last over 150k.
Maf get the insert from
http://germanstar.net/MAF.htm
129 bucks oem bosch.just remove the old one from the maf body install the new one ,button it back up and off you go.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
Unless the maf is tossing a code or codes p0170 p0173 there is no need to replace it,aclean it properly with crc brand maf cleaner and that is all the maint it needs if it is non CEL.
Leave the wires alone,if not abused when the plugs are changed properly they will last over 150k.
Maf get the insert from
http://germanstar.net/MAF.htm
129 bucks oem bosch.just remove the old one from the maf body install the new one ,button it back up and off you go.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
Unless the maf is tossing a code or codes p0170 p0173 there is no need to replace it,aclean it properly with crc brand maf cleaner and that is all the maint it needs if it is non CEL.
Last edited by ohlord; 10-25-2007 at 03:30 PM.
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Good post I posted the cars for everyone's info
PART NUMBER 1120940048X
Fits...
All C230 1997 - 2000
All C280 from 1997
All C43
All CLK320, CLK430
All E320 from engine 104995-050147
All E320 from 1998
All E430
All ML320, ML430, ML500, ML55
All S320 from 1997
All S430, S500, S55 from 2001
All SL320 from engine 104991-022858
All SLK230, SLK320
PART NUMBER 1120940048X
Fits...
All C230 1997 - 2000
All C280 from 1997
All C43
All CLK320, CLK430
All E320 from engine 104995-050147
All E320 from 1998
All E430
All ML320, ML430, ML500, ML55
All S320 from 1997
All S430, S500, S55 from 2001
All SL320 from engine 104991-022858
All SLK230, SLK320
Last edited by StapleGun; 10-26-2007 at 06:09 AM.
#13
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........... There are many members in this section that have had their plugs changed at 70k,80k,etc.I think all of them that will tell you at that mileage, it was time to change them.I just had 4 of mine pulled (69k) and I can say that when I get back from Chappys event they are all getting replaced.
#14
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You read that wrong or I worded
it poorly,if the wires are treated with care i.e. not yanked on,twisted or improperly moved they will last far longer then the plugs.
You are completely correct about the plugs,in our w210 100k they look and gap oe,in the higher compression and demand you guys put on the big power motors plugs can be changed sooner.
I was not saying the plugs would last 150000,(the wires will) if not abused when you change the plugs.
quote from my post above
"Leave the wires alone,if not abused when the plugs are changed properly they will last over 150k."
You took it out of context,the subject of the sentence was the Wires
You are completely correct about the plugs,in our w210 100k they look and gap oe,in the higher compression and demand you guys put on the big power motors plugs can be changed sooner.
I was not saying the plugs would last 150000,(the wires will) if not abused when you change the plugs.
quote from my post above
"Leave the wires alone,if not abused when the plugs are changed properly they will last over 150k."
You took it out of context,the subject of the sentence was the Wires
Last edited by ohlord; 10-26-2007 at 01:12 AM.
#15
Hey buddy this crank shaft sensor is it hard to swap it,cuz I bought one but haven't installed it yet, is it put in a tight place or what?
Does it need to be programmed with a computer or what my mechanic told me he must use the computr to make it work properly?
Mine isn't busted yet the car is only 80,000km
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
It's simply not a matter of mileage on those wires or the plugs at 150K I would expect a car to be close to ten years old - rubber deteriorates, and usually cracks waay before 150K. On my ol' 911 the bakelite connectors tended to crack, I would have a nice light show in my engine compartment from the spark arcing all over my engine compartment. I would never have plugs sit in a car for over 50K, but hey that's just me
Regarding the CPS (kowalski) - it's not tough, you'll need an etorx bit (a seven, just a guess at this point in time) - Now if you have Magic's hands you're doomed. It's a simple remove and replace with new one. It's on the driver's side bell housing, just aft of the cylinder bank - follow the electrical connection. I'm off to worky work, I'll try to get you a reference pic later on...
Regarding the CPS (kowalski) - it's not tough, you'll need an etorx bit (a seven, just a guess at this point in time) - Now if you have Magic's hands you're doomed. It's a simple remove and replace with new one. It's on the driver's side bell housing, just aft of the cylinder bank - follow the electrical connection. I'm off to worky work, I'll try to get you a reference pic later on...
Last edited by StapleGun; 10-26-2007 at 06:56 AM.
#17
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My maf went bad and never threw a code and there are many posts and threads where this has been very evident. Cleaning the MAF is a total waste of time.
Put it this way ,like a popular MB mechanic from this forum says,the MAF's are like light bulbs, they can go at any time,many times without warning. This insert you guys posted is a good alternative vs replacing the whole maf so kudos to the person who found it.
PS It is not wise to keep the spark plug wires on the car for 150k miles! Chg them way b4.
Last edited by ProjectC55; 10-26-2007 at 06:14 AM.
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Regarding the MAF, I had to change the turn signal switch on our C43, meaning I had to disconnect the battery before removing the airbag. Since reconnecting the battery the 1-2 shift stumble is gone. I hear what everyone is saying about the MAF and I really appreciate ohlord's finding the sensor for a great price, but I am not convinced the MAF can go bad without other symptoms, i.e. codes, other running problems like flat spots, etc. I also believe they can be cleaned effectively. If you follow Porsche Pete's Boxster Board, they clean their MAFs fairly regularly with good results and they are basically the same Bosch design. For now, I will monitor the car but I think the ECU needed a "reset" on our car.
As for the plug wires, I have seen M-B that are 40 years old with their original plug wires in good shape, but physically and electrically. They're solid core, i.e. wire core, and should not deteriorate if not mishandled. If the wires are in doubt they should be measured for resistance with an ohmeter. M-B technical literature does not recommend changing them as a routine. It does recommend checking them for resistance if they are suspect. I believe they are to measure 2K ohms - but it is marked on the spark plug end connector. The resistance is in the spark plug end connector. On the M112/113 the weakest link is the brass coil end connector which will collapse and ruin the wire if you are not very careful reinserting it into the coil. Of course, if it makes you feel better, who is to say changing them is a bad thing? Just expensive even at $77.
As for the plug wires, I have seen M-B that are 40 years old with their original plug wires in good shape, but physically and electrically. They're solid core, i.e. wire core, and should not deteriorate if not mishandled. If the wires are in doubt they should be measured for resistance with an ohmeter. M-B technical literature does not recommend changing them as a routine. It does recommend checking them for resistance if they are suspect. I believe they are to measure 2K ohms - but it is marked on the spark plug end connector. The resistance is in the spark plug end connector. On the M112/113 the weakest link is the brass coil end connector which will collapse and ruin the wire if you are not very careful reinserting it into the coil. Of course, if it makes you feel better, who is to say changing them is a bad thing? Just expensive even at $77.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
well i ordered the 1.8t maf, swaped sensor into my housing and let me tell you car runs great no longer hesitates when i floor it or when it shifts, so thumbs up to all u guys youve been a great help, as for the plugs i got a set but can anyone tell me the gap on them? as for wires thats my next thing looks like one of them is cracked so im just gonna replace them, any one know a good place for me to get a set, they are kinda pricey. my valve cover gasket looks like it needs replacing but im pretty sure i can do that myself as well.
#20
MBHustla858 - So you are saying that the sensor from the Audi is the same sensor as the C43. I took the following Bosch Part No. from the sensor on our C43 - F 00C 2G2 032. Are you able to confirm that the Audi sensor is the same? Do you know if the VW 1.8T sensor is the same?
The cheapest I have found the VW sensor is about $150 from 1stvwparts.
The cheapest I have found the VW sensor is about $150 from 1stvwparts.
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That is the same sensor as the 2.0 VW (that used to be about $50 - now it is $150). I guess it works fine judging from e30t387's post, but the actual sensor part number is different than the one in our C43.
C43 p/n F 00C 2G2 032
VW p/n F 00C 2G2 025
The part number is on the sensor itself. e30t387 - could you take a careful look at the sensor you removed and confirn m the part number above.
As it stands, I think I would go with the German Star part - cheaper too.
C43 p/n F 00C 2G2 032
VW p/n F 00C 2G2 025
The part number is on the sensor itself. e30t387 - could you take a careful look at the sensor you removed and confirn m the part number above.
As it stands, I think I would go with the German Star part - cheaper too.
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s/c 99 c43 amg
That is the same sensor as the 2.0 VW (that used to be about $50 - now it is $150). I guess it works fine judging from e30t387's post, but the actual sensor part number is different than the one in our C43.
C43 p/n F 00C 2G2 032
VW p/n F 00C 2G2 025
The part number is on the sensor itself. e30t387 - could you take a careful look at the sensor you removed and confirn m the part number above.
As it stands, I think I would go with the German Star part - cheaper too.
C43 p/n F 00C 2G2 032
VW p/n F 00C 2G2 025
The part number is on the sensor itself. e30t387 - could you take a careful look at the sensor you removed and confirn m the part number above.
As it stands, I think I would go with the German Star part - cheaper too.
yes you are correct the part numbers are different, but its working. if i would of read about the other sensor earlier i wouldve picked that up as its cheaper.
#23
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Those wires
are like armor plate,don't abuse them,put fire to them,yank them,and they will last.To each his own though,if you test resistance as above and it checks to spec,why spend several hundreds of dollars to change them?Plugs,like I said in the amg big motors can be changed sooner then oe interval if desired.Notice a lot of this forums members drag times so that will beat em up more then sedate street use
The CPS diy is over on the w210 forum at benzworld.org and pretty much goes for most variants.
MAF's are calibrated on such fine outputs that if they are going bad they -will- throw a light,most times before they even show any sort of drive issues.
And cleaning properly does help in most cases where dirt and such have affected the mafs ability to properly cool the platinum wire.
If the member above failed to get satisfactory results cleaning his maf with the proper crc brand cleaner,then his had failed or he cleaned it improperly,the insert needs to be removed to clean it,and then reinstalled back into the maf body.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
The CPS diy is over on the w210 forum at benzworld.org and pretty much goes for most variants.
MAF's are calibrated on such fine outputs that if they are going bad they -will- throw a light,most times before they even show any sort of drive issues.
And cleaning properly does help in most cases where dirt and such have affected the mafs ability to properly cool the platinum wire.
If the member above failed to get satisfactory results cleaning his maf with the proper crc brand cleaner,then his had failed or he cleaned it improperly,the insert needs to be removed to clean it,and then reinstalled back into the maf body.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
A little more on the CPS ---> LINK
Yep - I bought some 40 year old spark plug HIGH tension leads (spark plug) wires on ebay for $2.00 and put 'em on my C43. The rubber was 'supple' and even stood up on its own, just like an erection. Yeah...ok
'ohlord' I think the last time a 5 spot left your wallet, Lincoln must've been clean-shaven and the 'Washington' next to it was squinting....
Yep - I bought some 40 year old spark plug HIGH tension leads (spark plug) wires on ebay for $2.00 and put 'em on my C43. The rubber was 'supple' and even stood up on its own, just like an erection. Yeah...ok
'ohlord' I think the last time a 5 spot left your wallet, Lincoln must've been clean-shaven and the 'Washington' next to it was squinting....
Last edited by StapleGun; 10-26-2007 at 06:44 PM.
#25
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Retired at 52
now 57,have the means to do what I please.Spending money on wires at 100k miles is not one of them,even honest mercedes techs will tell you the wires last if taken care of.
The link to the air sensors insert is from me to you guys,not because I'm cheap,I just shop wisely.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
some toys on the way to autocross
The link to the air sensors insert is from me to you guys,not because I'm cheap,I just shop wisely.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
some toys on the way to autocross