I had a very very hard time finding info on how to change the mount on a c43. So I plunged right in myself. I bought the mounts and so far I have only changed the driver side.
Here's how to do it.

1- hold the car up with a jack stand on the frame of the cars body. High enough to crawl under the car. Put something on the back tires so car wont slide (just incase).

2. turn your wheels all the way left (if doing the driver side mount). unbolt the "strut"looking thing at the botton front of the engine. you will need a wrench to hold one side as you unscrew the other side ( its also a 16mm nut). Than slide/push back the strut towards the passenger side to move it out of the way. Removing this "strut? thingy will give you room to squeeze your hand up to remove the top bolt of the mount. be very carefull as you slide your had up to get to the top bolt. the little frame that holds the bolt of the strut thingy will cut your arm as the tip of that metal is sharp.

3. use a 1/2 inch rachet (smallest handle you can find or have) with a 16mm socket. line it up to the top bolt and remove bolt. On my car both bolts where NOT hard to untighten. Took some pressure but that as much as I thought (I am kinda of strong tho). Make sure you take a good look at the silver cover that will fall out when you remove the bolt. just put it back the same way. its just a cover for protection of the rubber of the mount (i believe).

4. Now remove the lower bolt, which requieres a smaller socket ) i forgot the size,maybe 13 or 14.

5. put the jack under the engine oil pan (silver looking cover) towards the driver side mount and lift up slowly. Once the engine has lifted a little you will be able to move the mount out of place. no need for wood under pan but its your call, i did not damage anything

6. at this point you will have to pull the mount out of the frame of the car. you want to pull it out from the FRONT side. If you can have someone help you raise the engine with the jack a little bit at a time you will be able to clear the mount. I had to do it by myself so I had to raise the engine a little and check to see if the mount cleared than raise engine again and so forth.

7. now just put the new mount back and the strut looking thingy and lower the car, turn it on and feel the difference!

NOTE: IF your mount was bad as mine was you WILL feel a big difference in the cars idle. my steering wheel would shake and sometimes the glove compartment. now you cant feel the cars is on. also, when i hit the gas pedal hard the engine would clunk out of place. the car now feels stronger with what seems to have more torqe as the car responds fast without the engine having to move out of place. A job well worth doing, you can do the mount in an hour to hour an a half if you follow the instructions

Next will be the passenger side which looks even easier.
Hope this helps someone who wants to save some money by doing it themselves. Btw, I started this job by lifting the car up to see how hard it would be to have a neigbor mechanic do the job (he WAS suppose to do it wednesday). But as I looked under I said to myself this looks easy and so I did it.

 

what was the cost of the mounts?

 

Thank you for taking your time and giving us great information.

 

No problem. You can buy them here:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ba...tem_id=6327362

 

Great write-up Since you're tackling the PAX side you may want to replace the starter while you're there, if you have any issues with it. Mine would 'hang up' from time to time so I replaced both mounts ($68 each at autohaus) and the starter too. I would recommend a broad piece of wood on that oil pan though, to simply distribute that load on a cast aluminum part - having that crash down on ya' would be costly and quite possibly dangerous...

 

Thanks S Gun. Wish I knew about autohaus,epecially if the price is for oem mounts like the ones I bought. I agree with the wood but I have never used it any of my cars when rasing the motor. Maybe cause I never had a piece of wood laying around or to lazy to buy one. I am however very cautious about these things and I made sure the pan would be okay and it was all the way through the job.

As fas as the starter was it hard to replace? Mine is okay so far so I dont want to change it till it acts up or leaves me stranded :-) I will have to check prices on that starter now.

Thanks.

 

The only thing I would like to add is that I strongly suggest that the battery is disconnected prior to chaging the mounts. The alternator and starter motor are very close and there is a rick of short circuit. Unlikely, but you don't want to find out.

 

Absolutely with regards to the battery!!!

As far as difficulty to remove the starter...once you have the engine mounts off, the starter is easy to access, that is why I suggest changing it while you're there, esp. if your car has 100K on the odo or near...Last thing to offer, if you're going to do this - get ALL new bolts for your engine mounts, chances are you're going to slightly round off at least one, even with the proper tools - they're cheap.

 

nothing comes up in that link

 

You got that right! That's what I used when I replaced my mounts, a flat piece of wood that was strong and thick enuff to sit on the jack and support the motor. The whole job was simple.

 

I'm surprised no one chimed in and told him to get the E55 mounts.

 

Why would someone get e55 mounts for c43? simply better?

 

The rumor is that the W210 E55 mounts are stouter. And that's what I have installed in my W202 C55 as do a few others in their C43's. E55 mounts are made to handle the bigger torquier 5.5L motor.

 

Yep... I sparked it!

 

I used M113K E55K engine mounts. You can read all about it here:
Engine support repair and upgrade - MBWorld.org Forums