Adjusting Air-Fuel Ratios on ME 2.0
Z-AFM Air Fuel Mapping Kit Option
The optional Z-AFM kit consists of an air fuel sensor and amplifier box that plugs into the any of the Z-Fi products, and allows for self-mapping of the motorcycle. Self-mapping means that as the user rides the bike, on the track or on a dynamometer, the Z-Fi automatically calculates the required fuel adjustment at each RPM and Throttle Position to reach the user selectable target air fuel ratio.
The Z-Fi Mapper software allows for the user to easily enter the target air fuel ratio, start, stop, and review the results of the self-mapping function. Once the recommended adjustments have been reviewed, the user can either apply all of the suggested adjustments or just a certain range with a few simple clicks of the mouse.
The Z-AFM kit offers an alternative way for mapping without the time or cost of a custom dyno tune. For the rider looking for maximum performance, a dyno tune together with the Z-AFM is the way to go. The kit comes with all of the required hardware, but may require modification of the exhaust pipe to accept the air fuel sensor fitting. Many manufacturers, like Yoshimura, make versions of their existing pipes with the sensor fitting already built in.
• Plug and Play installation with any of the Z-Fi products (may require pipe modification to accept sensor)
• Allows for self-mapping either on the track or on the dyno
• Allows an alternative way for mapping without the time or cost of a custom dyno tune
• User adjustable target air fuel ratio for performance and fuel economy
MSRP: $349.95
All Products are for Closed Race Course Use Only
ohlord
ohlord

you should note that 3 of the 4 other posters in this thread are no where near stock
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But my C43 with the simple modds I made never quit ran right on top, it was always very rich. And my 55 motor with the same mods is even worse
Jeff
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Z-AFM Air Fuel Mapping Kit Option
The optional Z-AFM kit consists of an air fuel sensor and amplifier box that plugs into the any of the Z-Fi products, and allows for self-mapping of the motorcycle. Self-mapping means that as the user rides the bike, on the track or on a dynamometer, the Z-Fi automatically calculates the required fuel adjustment at each RPM and Throttle Position to reach the user selectable target air fuel ratio.
The Z-Fi Mapper software allows for the user to easily enter the target air fuel ratio, start, stop, and review the results of the self-mapping function. Once the recommended adjustments have been reviewed, the user can either apply all of the suggested adjustments or just a certain range with a few simple clicks of the mouse.
The Z-AFM kit offers an alternative way for mapping without the time or cost of a custom dyno tune. For the rider looking for maximum performance, a dyno tune together with the Z-AFM is the way to go. The kit comes with all of the required hardware, but may require modification of the exhaust pipe to accept the air fuel sensor fitting. Many manufacturers, like Yoshimura, make versions of their existing pipes with the sensor fitting already built in.
• Plug and Play installation with any of the Z-Fi products (may require pipe modification to accept sensor)
• Allows for self-mapping either on the track or on the dyno
• Allows an alternative way for mapping without the time or cost of a custom dyno tune
• User adjustable target air fuel ratio for performance and fuel economy
MSRP: $349.95
All Products are for Closed Race Course Use Only
the stock ecu may be quite well able to adapt (in someones opinion), but it sure refuses to open up the injector pulsewidth the way i'd like it to (such that i could run lower fuel pressures with my set-up)
also, for what it's worth i very much intend to add a 125 shot and attempt to keep up with some of the "special" newer cars on the track.
on blower you may need some custom pistons and the new 722.6 transmission capable of holding that kind of power.
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So are you using the adjustable split second or the split second preset MAF clamp that comes with the SC kit?
Lastly, does anyone know what the C43 uses as stock timing and/or how to go about finding that out? Do you need a star diag. system?
i do have quite a bit of tweaking done within the scaler though- without it i was running quite a bit too lean. i am probably tuned too safe now- currently 1st and 2nd dip as low as the high 10s, 3rd is from 11.3-11.8 and 4th and 5th are just a bit leaner than that. My "tune" slowly ramps up the added signal starting with maf readings of around 3.7 and by 4.3v it is basically sending 4.9v throughout. there are a couple of other little tricks to setting it up as well- but i won't go into those in this post. the biggest hurdles i had were how to prepare the tune for when traction control comes on and how not to go too way rich at light throttle tip-in.
This was done so I can go from the 76mm stock SC pulley to a 70mm pulley. It has worked out so well, I might investigate a 65mm pulley at this point.
I used a ecu schematic for a 2001 E240, which does not really help you V8 guys, but if I remember correctly, I think Unichip has a schematic for a E55, but I would have to check on that.
what exactly does it allow? are you tuning based on tables on your laptop? what all information is it providing you?
The generic piggy back does not have any tables pre-loaded, all the values are set at neutral, so we get on the dyno and take a base reading and adjust from there. My car was running rich up to redline when it hit 12 AF with the stock SC pulley. After installing the 70mm pulley, it went from rich, to lean and then the injectors hit 100% duty cycle. To solve that, I installed 40lb C32 injectors, which required more tuning to compensate for double the fuel, so we are no where near 50% duty cycle on the injectors now. I have a sold A/F of 12 up to about 6200 rpm, then it goes rich. Obivously I am not done, it needs more time on the dyno, but I have a show in two days so needed to take my car back for now.
Timing and fuel are the key adjustments of the Unichip, you can add/take away fuel and timing throughout the rev band, till you have everything dialed in perfect.
You might want to read about the Unichip
http://www.unichip.us/index.asp
Just keep in mind, that there are no plug n play options for the Mercedes, so you end up with the generic universal piggy back unit with no pre-loaded maps. You can get quite creative with the Unichip, they even have a bluetooth option that allows you to monitor settings via your cell phone and/or switch between multiple pre-set maps (one for 91 octane and one for 97 octane for example)
What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing throughout?
What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing throughout?
With the Kleemann fuel pressure regulator, it was pegging the fuel meter at over 100psi, but we disconnected it, without, the fuel pressure is around 72-74 psi throughout the rev band. I don't know what my pressure is at the 6200rpm mark though, I need more time on the dyno to determine if the fuel pump is maxing out. I hope not, as my fuel pump has dual inlets and the clk55 pump and the other high flowing pumps only have a single inlet, so I would have to rig up some sort of Y fitting to run a higher flowing fuel pump, shouldnt be too big of a problem as that side is not pressurized.
If I were you, I would start by locating a Unichip dealer close to you, calling them and ask them to log in and do a search for Mercedes and see what is available. Unichip is in South Africa, so they have many versions of cars available in other markets, not just US spec.
splitsecond has told me they more or less know how to adjust timing (i take it with a grain of salt to some degree)
i would absolutely make an E85 tune, 93 octane tune and a nitrous tune if the software can support it. I've been itching to go E85 (forget about needing any meth with my air-water ic and E85... heh)
splitsecond has told me they more or less know how to adjust timing (i take it with a grain of salt to some degree)
i would absolutely make an E85 tune, 93 octane tune and a nitrous tune if the software can support it. I've been itching to go E85 (forget about needing any meth with my air-water ic and E85... heh)
My car is N/A so based on your comment how do I advance the timing since you mentioned that you know existing products that will do that?
when i read above and someone asked (probably you) if it could adjust timing i jumped in with the info i had about adjusting timing with existing products. It was not clarified that you wanted to advance... the comment i quoted above is pretty harsh given the situation, give me a break.


