looking for a replacement Bose AMP!
#1
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I was browsing Ebay and I found that there are many auctions for used BOSE
amps!
Mine is getting faacked up I think?
Either it's the MB Audio 30 tapedeck or my Bose amp?
Here is what's wrong:
On drivers side front door speaker, the sound is poor and blurry sounding! Bad sounding, low sounding and blurry on drivers side when playing tapes!
Radio is clearer, cd-play is clearer, but a little lower in sound volume than passengers side!
My speakers are not blown!
Passengers side is more clean and crispy sounding! (Perfect sound)
I had to adjust the balance +1 or +2 steps in favor to drivers side to almost be equal in soundlevel like passengers side!
I only hear crap sound when I play my tapedeck with tapes!
Turn the balance all the way to only play drivers side, sound is low and crappy!
Turn over balance to passengers side and sound is crispy clear perfect!
Play cd's or radio is better but when playing separately on each channel I do hear difference in sound level!
Drivers side is always lower in sound volume!
So is it my AMP or tapedeck getting ****ed up?
Paying 100 bux on ebay is cheap but do I get a perfect amp or a bad one?
Parts number for my 1999 C43 Bose amp is # 202 820 27 89. Fiber optics D2B
If I buy a Bose amp from say a 99 210 benz or other late model is it going to fit?
same plug connections and fastenings holes to the body?
Getting a later model amp from Bose is better if they have been updated from previous bad quality parts!
From which car can I source a better Bose amp?
amps!
Mine is getting faacked up I think?
Either it's the MB Audio 30 tapedeck or my Bose amp?
Here is what's wrong:
On drivers side front door speaker, the sound is poor and blurry sounding! Bad sounding, low sounding and blurry on drivers side when playing tapes!
Radio is clearer, cd-play is clearer, but a little lower in sound volume than passengers side!
My speakers are not blown!
Passengers side is more clean and crispy sounding! (Perfect sound)
I had to adjust the balance +1 or +2 steps in favor to drivers side to almost be equal in soundlevel like passengers side!
I only hear crap sound when I play my tapedeck with tapes!
Turn the balance all the way to only play drivers side, sound is low and crappy!
Turn over balance to passengers side and sound is crispy clear perfect!
Play cd's or radio is better but when playing separately on each channel I do hear difference in sound level!
Drivers side is always lower in sound volume!
So is it my AMP or tapedeck getting ****ed up?
Paying 100 bux on ebay is cheap but do I get a perfect amp or a bad one?
Parts number for my 1999 C43 Bose amp is # 202 820 27 89. Fiber optics D2B
If I buy a Bose amp from say a 99 210 benz or other late model is it going to fit?
same plug connections and fastenings holes to the body?
Getting a later model amp from Bose is better if they have been updated from previous bad quality parts!
From which car can I source a better Bose amp?
#3
I see there are a few master technicians trained for MB cars on this forum.
I have found that an Bose amp that is for a E-klasse 210 uses similar partsnumber #210 820 27 89
C43 uses partsnumber #202 820 27 89
Only difference is the first 3 digits!
The rest is the same!
Housing on both amps are the same size and so are the mounting holes for stock bolts!
I was told from a technician at Bose, he told me 210 amp might work but the cabin acoustics might degrade in worse sound quality if I use a 210 Bose amp in a C43!
There are tweaking mods done to the both version amps, between both cabins inner acoustics!
Does this make any sense?
If I use a 210 820 27 89 Bose amp this one is the closest in #number to match a c43 amg!
You master trained audio wizards that know about MB cars can you help me out here?
I don't want to buy a used 210 Bose amp if the sound does not improve or match my stock Bose amp!
I have found that an Bose amp that is for a E-klasse 210 uses similar partsnumber #210 820 27 89
C43 uses partsnumber #202 820 27 89
Only difference is the first 3 digits!
The rest is the same!
Housing on both amps are the same size and so are the mounting holes for stock bolts!
I was told from a technician at Bose, he told me 210 amp might work but the cabin acoustics might degrade in worse sound quality if I use a 210 Bose amp in a C43!
There are tweaking mods done to the both version amps, between both cabins inner acoustics!
Does this make any sense?
If I use a 210 820 27 89 Bose amp this one is the closest in #number to match a c43 amg!
You master trained audio wizards that know about MB cars can you help me out here?
I don't want to buy a used 210 Bose amp if the sound does not improve or match my stock Bose amp!
#4
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83 500SEC, 87 300D, 02 C32(x2), 02 C320T (x2), 03 C320T4, 03 C320T, 03 E55, 05 E320CDI, 06 E320CDI
If I were you I would contact MB parts to see if the 202 amp supercedes to the 210 one, otherwise I would stick with the 202 amp and not overcomplicate things.
#5
Supercede means links over to another partsnumber?
Is this what you're saying?
Dealer said NO!
No link to another #PN!
My concern is why my BOSE Hifi plays lower on drivers side when passengers side plays perfect in crisp and normal audio!
Drivers side plays worst on tapes sometimes the audio is blurry and low!
The others: radio, cd plays perfect and crisp but still a tad lower on drivers side!
The audio does not match equally in strenght on both sides!
Sometimes it feels like drivers side is DEAD!
Although it plays low!
Bose technician told me to run an extension wire from drivers door speakerwire to the rear door speaker and another extension wire from passengers door speakerwires to the front door speaker!
This way I could determine if it's the same problem as mentioned above in the first description of my problems!
But I don't understand the test with extension wires?
What do I get out of this test connection?
Please explain to me if you know?
Thanks
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
If that happened to me, and I decided I wanted to keep the Bose amp and speaker system, I’d have the amp rebuilt at an authorized Bose service center. I think this choice is far superior to buying someone's old amp, which may or may not use the same wiring harness plugs. http://www.bose.se/ can be used to locate your local authorized facility.
#7
[QUOTE=MarcusF;3938278]If that happened to me, and I decided I wanted to keep the Bose amp and speaker system.
I emailed Bose and this is what they told me!
Just read below!
Message 1:
If we understand your inquiry correctly, you are wondering if it is possible to repair the amplifier of your Mercedes C-class. In that case we would like to inform you, that the System was offered exclusively as an "off-factory" option by Mercedes, and therefore they insist on providing all service activities through their authorized dealerships. Please contact your local Mercedes dealer for support towards the resolution of the issue you encounter.Even though we can not tell if you own the older W202 or the newer W203 model [the model change was in 99], we would still recommend that someone ensures the actual root cause of the noises you describe. There is a relatively simple way to identify the issue. If one runs a separate wire from the left door to the right door speaker and vice versa, there are two possible scenarios:The distortion stays on the side/speaker where it used to be => the speaker has an issue and a new speaker will fix the noise topic, or the distortion moves to the other side => the amplifier is having difficulties on said channel and needs to be replaced. Mercedes does not offer repair services and we are prohibited from getting involved.
Message 2:
We did understand the scope of the issue and are still not convinced that the amp is necessarily the cause for the behavior of the speaker in the driver door. You should consider the brief test (cross change wires) we described in our last message before you approach the amp.As you already found out, the W210 (E-class) amp would physically fit into your car.The connector on the car side harness is differently coded though. That could be overcome but then there is still a different tuning / overall sound because the amp is meant to be used in the E- not the C-class.You would probably have a reduced overall sound quality....As mentioned before, we are not allowed (contractually prohibited) to offer any repair service or service parts to Mercedes customers.
Hey Marcus, do you know these adapter parts
I know its risky to buy another BOSE amp if it's used they might also be crap!
Buying a new one is not an option it's way to expensive!
I get a better aftermarket amp for less money!
The main problem is to use an adapter harness plug!
Where do you source these for a 1999 202 C43 AMG?
What's the #partsnumber for the adapter plug when replacing the stock factory tapedeck to a single aftermarket cd-player that runs factory cd-changer with an adapter plugg?
Is there a adapter plug socket for replacing the stock Bose amp to an aftermarket amp?
Thanks
I emailed Bose and this is what they told me!
Just read below!
Message 1:
If we understand your inquiry correctly, you are wondering if it is possible to repair the amplifier of your Mercedes C-class. In that case we would like to inform you, that the System was offered exclusively as an "off-factory" option by Mercedes, and therefore they insist on providing all service activities through their authorized dealerships. Please contact your local Mercedes dealer for support towards the resolution of the issue you encounter.Even though we can not tell if you own the older W202 or the newer W203 model [the model change was in 99], we would still recommend that someone ensures the actual root cause of the noises you describe. There is a relatively simple way to identify the issue. If one runs a separate wire from the left door to the right door speaker and vice versa, there are two possible scenarios:The distortion stays on the side/speaker where it used to be => the speaker has an issue and a new speaker will fix the noise topic, or the distortion moves to the other side => the amplifier is having difficulties on said channel and needs to be replaced. Mercedes does not offer repair services and we are prohibited from getting involved.
Message 2:
We did understand the scope of the issue and are still not convinced that the amp is necessarily the cause for the behavior of the speaker in the driver door. You should consider the brief test (cross change wires) we described in our last message before you approach the amp.As you already found out, the W210 (E-class) amp would physically fit into your car.The connector on the car side harness is differently coded though. That could be overcome but then there is still a different tuning / overall sound because the amp is meant to be used in the E- not the C-class.You would probably have a reduced overall sound quality....As mentioned before, we are not allowed (contractually prohibited) to offer any repair service or service parts to Mercedes customers.
Hey Marcus, do you know these adapter parts
I know its risky to buy another BOSE amp if it's used they might also be crap!
Buying a new one is not an option it's way to expensive!
I get a better aftermarket amp for less money!
The main problem is to use an adapter harness plug!
Where do you source these for a 1999 202 C43 AMG?
What's the #partsnumber for the adapter plug when replacing the stock factory tapedeck to a single aftermarket cd-player that runs factory cd-changer with an adapter plugg?
Is there a adapter plug socket for replacing the stock Bose amp to an aftermarket amp?
Thanks
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 02-13-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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#8
Administrator
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1) Sounds to me like your tape head needs adjusting.
2) Its not uncommon for 1 speaker to sound differently from another one of the same series, make, etc. Production tolerances come into play.
3) Keep in mind that BOSE = Buy Other Sound Equipment.
2) Its not uncommon for 1 speaker to sound differently from another one of the same series, make, etc. Production tolerances come into play.
3) Keep in mind that BOSE = Buy Other Sound Equipment.
![devil](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/devil.gif)
#10
Hey buddy that was a good B.O.S.E. explanation!
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Butt out **** elsewhere
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
About the tape heads, some tapes recorded in good quality audio plays loud and perfect, other plays fuzzy and unclear!
That means a lower quality recorded audio tape plays:
Poor and low volume strenght on drivers side, almost like the speaker is dead!
Perfect and loud on passengers side!
This is the problem that bugs me!
Why play low on drivers side as almost the speaker is dead.
I hear no distortion like a broken speaker, they all work!
The paper cones they are not made of thin paper you wipe your nose with!
Paper cones are made of thick special paper!
They have to last for long time if the volume is played on normal audio!
Only excessive high sound volume wears the speakers into an early death!
Something must be wrong with my stock Bose system, either my MB Audio 30 tapedeck or the Bose amp?
Thanks
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 02-14-2010 at 05:45 AM.
#11
I buy my adapter plugs from Crutchfield.
I don't know what to look after?
The fully name of the adapter parts requiered and #partsnumbers, please!
Then I will go to the radioshack here in Sweden and ask fo the same adapter parts.
These adapter parts do they control the MB OEM cd-changer with an aftermarket car stereo?
Thanks
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South FL
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96AMG 100k miles black/black
swimming against the flow
This systems on average do not out live the cars, why fix a 10-15 year old system prone to fail in every corner?
100's to choose with equal or better definition n more features..for less; to keep this old radios OEM is like trying to keep a whale in a pond happy n healthy
MB? they just want the common owner to get frustrated with a few glitches n go for a new MB/amg
60k for a new one is better business than a radio fix: (quote)
Mercedes does not offer repair services and we are prohibited from getting involved.
100's to choose with equal or better definition n more features..for less; to keep this old radios OEM is like trying to keep a whale in a pond happy n healthy
MB? they just want the common owner to get frustrated with a few glitches n go for a new MB/amg
60k for a new one is better business than a radio fix: (quote)
Mercedes does not offer repair services and we are prohibited from getting involved.
#13
This systems on average do not out live the cars, why fix a 10-15 year old system prone to fail in every corner?
100's to choose with equal or better definition n more features..for less; to keep this old radios OEM is like trying to keep a whale in a pond happy n healthy
MB? they just want the common owner to get frustrated with a few glitches n go for a new MB/amg
60k for a new one is better business than a radio fix: (quote)
Mercedes does not offer repair services and we are prohibited from getting involved.
100's to choose with equal or better definition n more features..for less; to keep this old radios OEM is like trying to keep a whale in a pond happy n healthy
MB? they just want the common owner to get frustrated with a few glitches n go for a new MB/amg
60k for a new one is better business than a radio fix: (quote)
Mercedes does not offer repair services and we are prohibited from getting involved.
But I am not shure if I can run an aftermarket radio hooked up with the rest of MB/BOSE junk I have in my car?
I want my stock MB cd changer to be integrated with the new aftermarket radio and the original Bose speakers!
If it can work togther with Bose amp and Bose speakers that's great!
I'll rip out the MB audio 30 tapedeck and buy a single cd player instead!
The canbus fibre optics for cd changer how does it integrate with a new aftermarket radio?
Only if this improvement works I will do the change?
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
If it's possible to pull out the stock radio and use an aftermarket way better radio/cd I do it at once!
But I am not shure if I can run an aftermarket radio hooked up with the rest of MB/BOSE junk I have in my car?
I want my stock MB cd changer to be integrated with the new aftermarket radio and the original Bose speakers!
If it can work togther with Bose amp and Bose speakers that's great!
I'll rip out the MB audio 30 tapedeck and buy a single cd player instead!
The canbus fibre optics for cd changer how does it integrate with a new aftermarket radio?
Only if this improvement works I will do the change?
But I am not shure if I can run an aftermarket radio hooked up with the rest of MB/BOSE junk I have in my car?
I want my stock MB cd changer to be integrated with the new aftermarket radio and the original Bose speakers!
If it can work togther with Bose amp and Bose speakers that's great!
I'll rip out the MB audio 30 tapedeck and buy a single cd player instead!
The canbus fibre optics for cd changer how does it integrate with a new aftermarket radio?
Only if this improvement works I will do the change?
I agree with 96AMG - replace the head unit. You can replace the OE head unit and use your existing Bose equipment. I would also recommend getting rid of the CD changer. A cassette head unit is two generations behind a modern audio system. CD sound quality was a vast improvement over cassettes, and solid state drives are an improvement over CDs. CDs are bulky, skip, degrade in quality over time, and only hold about 70 minutes worth of music. Solid state memory is small, never skips, takes much longer to degrade, and when it does, can be easily copied. It would take a CD changer that holds 125 discs to hold the same amount of music that can sit on $20 worth of solid state memory – and that’s with the recording levels set at 50% above CD quality. Based on that, I can see no reason for anyone to put a CD player in a car.
I replaced my OEM head unit with an AM/FM receiver that can read solid state memory (absolutely no CDs). These are the parts I used to replace the OEM head unit in my car:
![](http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/photos/headunit02.jpg)
This Alpine reads digital media from iPods, iPhones, and hard drives, plus it shows the album art on the display. The original equipment steering wheel controls work, and the $15 PAC-OEM2 box converts the head unit’s unbalanced signal to a balanced differential signal interconnection. This allows it to connect to the factory wiring harness and use the Bose amps and speakers. You may want to do a search on the PAC OEM2 here at MBWorld. I haven't seen one post that had anything but praise for that converter box. Alternatively, you can ditch the Bose amps and speakers, and run amps, speakers, and wiring.
This webpage gives a little more detail on what I did and why.
Last edited by MarcusF; 02-14-2010 at 07:47 PM.
#15
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83 500SEC, 87 300D, 02 C32(x2), 02 C320T (x2), 03 C320T4, 03 C320T, 03 E55, 05 E320CDI, 06 E320CDI
nice, I'm going to have to remember that post Marcus. My HU has a little discoloration on the display, good enough reason to replace it
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#16
The part number for the wiring harness that you want is 120701784. This is the link.
I agree with 96AMG - replace the head unit. You can replace the OE head unit and use your existing Bose equipment. I would also recommend getting rid of the CD changer. A cassette head unit is two generations behind a modern audio system. CD sound quality was a vast improvement over cassettes, and solid state drives are an improvement over CDs. CDs are bulky, skip, degrade in quality over time, and only hold about 70 minutes worth of music. Solid state memory is small, never skips, takes much longer to degrade, and when it does, can be easily copied. It would take a CD changer that holds 125 discs to hold the same amount of music that can sit on $20 worth of solid state memory – and that’s with the recording levels set at 50% above CD quality. Based on that, I can see no reason for anyone to put a CD player in a car.
I replaced my OEM head unit with an AM/FM receiver that can read solid state memory (absolutely no CDs). These are the parts I used to replace the OEM head unit in my car:
![](http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/photos/headunit02.jpg)
This Alpine reads digital media from iPods, iPhones, and hard drives, plus it shows the album art on the display. The original equipment steering wheel controls work, and the $15 PAC-OEM2 box converts the head unit’s unbalanced signal to a balanced differential signal interconnection. This allows it to connect to the factory wiring harness and use the Bose amps and speakers. You may want to do a search on the PAC OEM2 here at MBWorld. I haven't seen one post that had anything but praise for that converter box. Alternatively, you can ditch the Bose amps and speakers, and run amps, speakers, and wiring.
This webpage gives a little more detail on what I did and why.
I agree with 96AMG - replace the head unit. You can replace the OE head unit and use your existing Bose equipment. I would also recommend getting rid of the CD changer. A cassette head unit is two generations behind a modern audio system. CD sound quality was a vast improvement over cassettes, and solid state drives are an improvement over CDs. CDs are bulky, skip, degrade in quality over time, and only hold about 70 minutes worth of music. Solid state memory is small, never skips, takes much longer to degrade, and when it does, can be easily copied. It would take a CD changer that holds 125 discs to hold the same amount of music that can sit on $20 worth of solid state memory – and that’s with the recording levels set at 50% above CD quality. Based on that, I can see no reason for anyone to put a CD player in a car.
I replaced my OEM head unit with an AM/FM receiver that can read solid state memory (absolutely no CDs). These are the parts I used to replace the OEM head unit in my car:
![](http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/photos/headunit02.jpg)
This Alpine reads digital media from iPods, iPhones, and hard drives, plus it shows the album art on the display. The original equipment steering wheel controls work, and the $15 PAC-OEM2 box converts the head unit’s unbalanced signal to a balanced differential signal interconnection. This allows it to connect to the factory wiring harness and use the Bose amps and speakers. You may want to do a search on the PAC OEM2 here at MBWorld. I haven't seen one post that had anything but praise for that converter box. Alternatively, you can ditch the Bose amps and speakers, and run amps, speakers, and wiring.
This webpage gives a little more detail on what I did and why.
Hey Marcus thanks for the info.
So I only need one adapter harness between the new radio and my cars internal harness plug?
This is what you're saying?
And this is the part: wiring harness that I want is 120701784.
I don't need anything else besides the new stereo and the adapter plug?
This adapter plug will also include my factory cd-changer to operate with the new aftermarket radio?
If it works that's great then I can remove the stock tapedeck!
Maybe this is the problem and not my BOSE amp?
I had a single cd player before in my other car, sound was way better than playing tapes!
Thanks
#17
This question is for MarcusF
I red the feedback ratings customers gave for this adapter harness!
There was a guy with a MB E320 1997 model with factory BOSE amp!
He said he lost his trunk cd-changer when he installed a new Head unit!
This adapter didn't include the factory cd-changer!
I want to use the trunk changer with a new head unit and that includes my Bose amp and speakers aswell!
Everything is a compromise but the adapter harnes you were talking about does it or does it not include powerwire to include the OEM trunk changer?
Thanks
I red the feedback ratings customers gave for this adapter harness!
There was a guy with a MB E320 1997 model with factory BOSE amp!
He said he lost his trunk cd-changer when he installed a new Head unit!
This adapter didn't include the factory cd-changer!
I want to use the trunk changer with a new head unit and that includes my Bose amp and speakers aswell!
Everything is a compromise but the adapter harnes you were talking about does it or does it not include powerwire to include the OEM trunk changer?
Thanks
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
I unplugged three ports on the back of my original equipment head unit;
(1) the steering wheel controls port
(2) the CD changer port
(3) the large wiring harness port.
Each of these ports was connected to a plug on a wiring harness.
The head unit talks to the trunk mounted CD changer through a fiber optic cable, which is plugged into the CD changer port. The wiring harness adapter does not replace the fiber optic cable port (#2 on the list). The 120701784 wiring harness adapter replaces #3 on the list. It allows the new head unit to use the existing factory wiring harness for power and to access the Bose amps. It does not give you access to the trunk mounted CD changer. In my case, the head unit makes the CD changer obsolete. If you want to use the original equipment CD changer, you’ll need either a head unit that has a port for the fiber optic cable, or an adapter for the fiber optic cable, and a head unit with a port for that adapter. Basically, you have to pick a head unit manufacturer based on their fiber optic capabilities.
[sense of humor section]
I think the trunk mounted CD changer was a good unit when it was new (this is 30 year old technology – the audio CD was introduced in 1982). Aside from occasionally getting confused and thinking the 6-disc magazine was empty, or deciding it didn’t like certain CDs (usually while playing them), or refusing to unload the 6-disc magazine, it worked flawlessly.
However, I’m not attached to the CD changer itself, I just want the music. My head unit can talk to a CD changer. Just not the OE CD changer. I could remove the factory one (I left it there – the extra weight on the right side of the open diff gives me just enough traction to run high 13’s – rumor is BlackBenzz* has one mounted on BOTH sides, and that’s how he runs 12’s. His blower merely keeps the front end planted in turns
) and replace it with an Alpine CD changer. That’s not happening though. Putting a CD changer in my car would be like bringing home a 14” black and white tube TV, putting it next to one of the HD flat panels, and programming the universal remote to work both of them.
*Note: the name BlackBenzz is a registered trademark of the fastest W208 in existence. The use of this name does not imply his authorization. All rights, lefts, and straight-aways reserved.
(1) the steering wheel controls port
(2) the CD changer port
(3) the large wiring harness port.
Each of these ports was connected to a plug on a wiring harness.
The head unit talks to the trunk mounted CD changer through a fiber optic cable, which is plugged into the CD changer port. The wiring harness adapter does not replace the fiber optic cable port (#2 on the list). The 120701784 wiring harness adapter replaces #3 on the list. It allows the new head unit to use the existing factory wiring harness for power and to access the Bose amps. It does not give you access to the trunk mounted CD changer. In my case, the head unit makes the CD changer obsolete. If you want to use the original equipment CD changer, you’ll need either a head unit that has a port for the fiber optic cable, or an adapter for the fiber optic cable, and a head unit with a port for that adapter. Basically, you have to pick a head unit manufacturer based on their fiber optic capabilities.
[sense of humor section]
I think the trunk mounted CD changer was a good unit when it was new (this is 30 year old technology – the audio CD was introduced in 1982). Aside from occasionally getting confused and thinking the 6-disc magazine was empty, or deciding it didn’t like certain CDs (usually while playing them), or refusing to unload the 6-disc magazine, it worked flawlessly.
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
*Note: the name BlackBenzz is a registered trademark of the fastest W208 in existence. The use of this name does not imply his authorization. All rights, lefts, and straight-aways reserved.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#19
Thanks Marcus for the tutorial explanation!
So if I still wanna use my cd-changer in the trunk I will have to get another adapter if there is anyone?
Other than that with the Crutchfield adapter I can hook up a new aftermarket radio and integrate it with my stock Bose junk equipment?
No problemas here you say?
Maybe I should try to sell the cdchanger for some cash and buy a new radio then!
Thanks
So if I still wanna use my cd-changer in the trunk I will have to get another adapter if there is anyone?
Other than that with the Crutchfield adapter I can hook up a new aftermarket radio and integrate it with my stock Bose junk equipment?
No problemas here you say?
Maybe I should try to sell the cdchanger for some cash and buy a new radio then!
Thanks
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
I unplugged three ports on the back of my original equipment head unit;
(1) the steering wheel controls port
(2) the CD changer port
(3) the large wiring harness port.
Each of these ports was connected to a plug on a wiring harness.
The head unit talks to the trunk mounted CD changer through a fiber optic cable, which is plugged into the CD changer port. The wiring harness adapter does not replace the fiber optic cable port (#2 on the list). The 120701784 wiring harness adapter replaces #3 on the list. It allows the new head unit to use the existing factory wiring harness for power and to access the Bose amps. It does not give you access to the trunk mounted CD changer. In my case, the head unit makes the CD changer obsolete. If you want to use the original equipment CD changer, you’ll need either a head unit that has a port for the fiber optic cable, or an adapter for the fiber optic cable, and a head unit with a port for that adapter. Basically, you have to pick a head unit manufacturer based on their fiber optic capabilities.
[sense of humor section]
I think the trunk mounted CD changer was a good unit when it was new (this is 30 year old technology – the audio CD was introduced in 1982). Aside from occasionally getting confused and thinking the 6-disc magazine was empty, or deciding it didn’t like certain CDs (usually while playing them), or refusing to unload the 6-disc magazine, it worked flawlessly.
However, I’m not attached to the CD changer itself, I just want the music. My head unit can talk to a CD changer. Just not the OE CD changer. I could remove the factory one (I left it there – the extra weight on the right side of the open diff gives me just enough traction to run high 13’s – rumor is BlackBenzz* has one mounted on BOTH sides, and that’s how he runs 12’s. His blower merely keeps the front end planted in turns
) and replace it with an Alpine CD changer. That’s not happening though. Putting a CD changer in my car would be like bringing home a 14” black and white tube TV, putting it next to one of the HD flat panels, and programming the universal remote to work both of them.
*Note: the name BlackBenzz is a registered trademark of the fastest W208 in existence. The use of this name does not imply his authorization. All rights, lefts, and straight-aways reserved.![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
(1) the steering wheel controls port
(2) the CD changer port
(3) the large wiring harness port.
Each of these ports was connected to a plug on a wiring harness.
The head unit talks to the trunk mounted CD changer through a fiber optic cable, which is plugged into the CD changer port. The wiring harness adapter does not replace the fiber optic cable port (#2 on the list). The 120701784 wiring harness adapter replaces #3 on the list. It allows the new head unit to use the existing factory wiring harness for power and to access the Bose amps. It does not give you access to the trunk mounted CD changer. In my case, the head unit makes the CD changer obsolete. If you want to use the original equipment CD changer, you’ll need either a head unit that has a port for the fiber optic cable, or an adapter for the fiber optic cable, and a head unit with a port for that adapter. Basically, you have to pick a head unit manufacturer based on their fiber optic capabilities.
[sense of humor section]
I think the trunk mounted CD changer was a good unit when it was new (this is 30 year old technology – the audio CD was introduced in 1982). Aside from occasionally getting confused and thinking the 6-disc magazine was empty, or deciding it didn’t like certain CDs (usually while playing them), or refusing to unload the 6-disc magazine, it worked flawlessly.
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
*Note: the name BlackBenzz is a registered trademark of the fastest W208 in existence. The use of this name does not imply his authorization. All rights, lefts, and straight-aways reserved.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#22
On how many Impedance OHM's does these Bose amps work on?
Is it 2 or 4 ohm?
The same is for the factory Bose speakers same ohm?
How many ohm's does aftermarket speakers/amps work after?
I know for Home systems if a speaker has the Impedance of 8 ohm it's easier to run and sensitivity is over 90 it's easy to run by a weak amp!
About the Bose amps and it's speakers is it the opposite low impedance means lots of juice needed to run the set up?
Is it 2 or 4 ohm?
The same is for the factory Bose speakers same ohm?
How many ohm's does aftermarket speakers/amps work after?
I know for Home systems if a speaker has the Impedance of 8 ohm it's easier to run and sensitivity is over 90 it's easy to run by a weak amp!
About the Bose amps and it's speakers is it the opposite low impedance means lots of juice needed to run the set up?
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Kowalski, I believe Bose automotive amps and speakers use a 4 ohm impedance rating. There should be a rating on the speaker. It may be stamped on the amp as well. According to my audio friends if the speaker impedance is lower than the amplifier impedance, the amplifier will overheat/fry. If the speaker impedance is higher than the amplifier impedance, it’ll sound like crap, but without destroying the amp.
I’m not an audiophile. A true audiophile can guess which mismatched components are responsible for making dogs howls and babies cry.
#24
I should have a web page up in a day or two. I'll start a thread and copy the photos over when it's ready.
Kowalski, I believe Bose automotive amps and speakers use a 4 ohm impedance rating. There should be a rating on the speaker. It may be stamped on the amp as well. According to my audio friends if the speaker impedance is lower than the amplifier impedance, the amplifier will overheat/fry. If the speaker impedance is higher than the amplifier impedance, it’ll sound like crap, but without destroying the amp.
I’m not an audiophile. A true audiophile can guess which mismatched components are responsible for making dogs howls and babies cry.
Kowalski, I believe Bose automotive amps and speakers use a 4 ohm impedance rating. There should be a rating on the speaker. It may be stamped on the amp as well. According to my audio friends if the speaker impedance is lower than the amplifier impedance, the amplifier will overheat/fry. If the speaker impedance is higher than the amplifier impedance, it’ll sound like crap, but without destroying the amp.
I’m not an audiophile. A true audiophile can guess which mismatched components are responsible for making dogs howls and babies cry.
I guess the Böööse speakers aren't mismatched with the Böööse amp!
They are no Dynaudio's like in the Volvo cars, but they are ok for it's cheap quality!
Let us know when your webpage is up!
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Thanks
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Because I really wanna chg my factory radio and get rid or keep the CD player. If I could get rid of it that's a plus. Would love to put one in that's compatible with an Ipod and has Navigation.