Big Brakes...Small Car
#1
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C43/2jz, Ml63, C32
Big Brakes...Small Car
You know what they say about a man with a small car.....
I believed this swap was common knowledge so I didnt bother with a write up. For those that want something to go off of in the case you want to do this here you go. I take a lot of pics when doing R&D on my car. I have to warn you all that this requires some structural modifications and if not done properly will harm you and most importantly your CAR
The parts come in
Notice the orientation of the pots small to big. This is for a gradual braking effort applied to the rotor surface. Not noticed by many individuals out there but key to great braking. Front brakes on the w202 are located closest to the biumper. On the donor 6 pot brakes they are normally on the inner side. The option of rotating the brake from 3 to 9 worked. Then swapped inner and outer bleeders from top to bottom with the mini steel brake line with slight modifications.
Stock Brakes
Compare-o
This much needs to be taken from the front. (right front shown)
Rear removal (right rear shown) Note: this can be refined, got a little careless cutting
This is the most important part and some would say a bit too extreme for this brake setup. This is required because the caliper will hit the sway bar. It also limits your rim offset and shortens your turning radius.
Stock mounting location (not my car)
This is the new location of the sway bar mounting bracket after removal from stock location.
Removed about three inches from the sway bar ends and added about half an inchto the bump stop
When mounting the front calipers the brake line needs to be released from the firewall and straightened to allow for reach. The rears bolt up using the stock e-brake kit.
I believed this swap was common knowledge so I didnt bother with a write up. For those that want something to go off of in the case you want to do this here you go. I take a lot of pics when doing R&D on my car. I have to warn you all that this requires some structural modifications and if not done properly will harm you and most importantly your CAR
The parts come in
Notice the orientation of the pots small to big. This is for a gradual braking effort applied to the rotor surface. Not noticed by many individuals out there but key to great braking. Front brakes on the w202 are located closest to the biumper. On the donor 6 pot brakes they are normally on the inner side. The option of rotating the brake from 3 to 9 worked. Then swapped inner and outer bleeders from top to bottom with the mini steel brake line with slight modifications.
Stock Brakes
Compare-o
This much needs to be taken from the front. (right front shown)
Rear removal (right rear shown) Note: this can be refined, got a little careless cutting
This is the most important part and some would say a bit too extreme for this brake setup. This is required because the caliper will hit the sway bar. It also limits your rim offset and shortens your turning radius.
Stock mounting location (not my car)
This is the new location of the sway bar mounting bracket after removal from stock location.
Removed about three inches from the sway bar ends and added about half an inchto the bump stop
When mounting the front calipers the brake line needs to be released from the firewall and straightened to allow for reach. The rears bolt up using the stock e-brake kit.
#2
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C43/2jz, Ml63, C32
End product and might I say What a difference. The early Mercedes have a not so solid feel and this upgrade remedys that. The braking is perfect for my engine swap. Ill answer any questions if possible.
Peace
Jake
Brakes Available (old)
Peace
Jake
Brakes Available (old)
Last edited by money-one; 03-27-2010 at 09:15 PM. Reason: because i want to
#6
Wow - great job. It really sets your car apart from the rest. I love your commitment to do these mods that the average guy - like me - wouldn't have the guts to tackle.
I do have a full set of S4 brakes in my garage ready to install on my '03 A4 (going to be son's car when he turns 16). It's supposed to be a complete bolt-on - and I sure hope that's true. I've been spitting in my hands getting ready to do the job for a while now - and it's time to git-er-done.
Thanks for putting up this thread.
I do have a full set of S4 brakes in my garage ready to install on my '03 A4 (going to be son's car when he turns 16). It's supposed to be a complete bolt-on - and I sure hope that's true. I've been spitting in my hands getting ready to do the job for a while now - and it's time to git-er-done.
Thanks for putting up this thread.
Last edited by John-in-Dallas; 03-28-2010 at 09:50 AM.
#7
Senior Member
Nice !
I did an upgrade on my Audi S6 as well.
Used 993 TT calipers off an 95 P car as they're uber reliable and standard fare at the track.
Didn't have to do too much. Plug n Play just about with the aid of Movit's caliper brackets and Porsche 2 pc 323mm drilled rotors.
Stopping from 160 mph is easy peasy.
I did an upgrade on my Audi S6 as well.
Used 993 TT calipers off an 95 P car as they're uber reliable and standard fare at the track.
Didn't have to do too much. Plug n Play just about with the aid of Movit's caliper brackets and Porsche 2 pc 323mm drilled rotors.
Stopping from 160 mph is easy peasy.
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C43/2jz, Ml63, C32
I work at a Mercedes Benz dealer so I receive a discount. Its been so long so the specific price i cant remember. I believe the total for the average customer was close to $6.5k. I paid around $3500 I think.
No problem. Remember saying something about putting this up but time passed and never saw a need to do it.
Try latex gloves. Cuts down on the mess.
Looks sweet. This is what needs to happen more often. Enthusiast's sharing info like this so when someone comes into an Audi, BMW, Benz or what have you can have an altrenative to then just buying off the shelf products. Im tired of domestics having all the fun. Example and a bad one.. Corvette brakes on a Cavalier. Nothing against the cavalier.
Wow - great job. It really sets your car apart from the rest. I love your commitment to do these mods that the average guy - like me - wouldn't have the guts to tackle.
I do have a full set of S4 brakes in my garage ready to install on my '03 A4 (going to be son's car when he turns 16). It's supposed to be a complete bolt-on - and I sure hope that's true. I've been spitting in my hands getting ready to do the job for a while now - and it's time to git-er-done.
Thanks for putting up this thread.
I do have a full set of S4 brakes in my garage ready to install on my '03 A4 (going to be son's car when he turns 16). It's supposed to be a complete bolt-on - and I sure hope that's true. I've been spitting in my hands getting ready to do the job for a while now - and it's time to git-er-done.
Thanks for putting up this thread.
Try latex gloves. Cuts down on the mess.
Nice !
I did an upgrade on my Audi S6 as well.
Used 993 TT calipers off an 95 P car as they're uber reliable and standard fare at the track.
Didn't have to do too much. Plug n Play just about with the aid of Movit's caliper brackets and Porsche 2 pc 323mm drilled rotors.
Stopping from 160 mph is easy peasy.
I did an upgrade on my Audi S6 as well.
Used 993 TT calipers off an 95 P car as they're uber reliable and standard fare at the track.
Didn't have to do too much. Plug n Play just about with the aid of Movit's caliper brackets and Porsche 2 pc 323mm drilled rotors.
Stopping from 160 mph is easy peasy.
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83 500SEC, 87 300D, 02 C32(x2), 02 C320T (x2), 03 C320T4, 03 C320T, 03 E55, 05 E320CDI, 06 E320CDI
True, I used to run Motul 600 and ATE super blue and really saw no difference between that and the normal MB fluid- ran MB fluid all last year with no problems whatsoever on my heavy *** SEC track car I just would change it out before every track event.
Great write up and pics!
Great write up and pics!
#13
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Jake,
I was under the impression that the SLK55 brakes were a direct bolt on. Are the calipers for the BS on the rear different enough that you would have to cut the sway bar mount up like that, or is the direct bolt on presumption incorrect?
Thanks.
I was under the impression that the SLK55 brakes were a direct bolt on. Are the calipers for the BS on the rear different enough that you would have to cut the sway bar mount up like that, or is the direct bolt on presumption incorrect?
Thanks.
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C43/2jz, Ml63, C32
If I'm getting you right then no the rear sway bar does not need to be altered. They just bolted right in place aside from the dust shield. The front sway bar was the only modified one. If I was doing the 4 piston c55 fronts no modifying would have to of been done
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My mistake. I misread your post and thought the rear sway bar mount was the one that had to be modified. So, with that in mind, is there a big difference between the CLK63BS front calipers and SLK55 calipers? Would one need to modify the front sway bar mount for the SLK55 brakes? Thanks.
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My mistake. I misread your post and thought the rear sway bar mount was the one that had to be modified. So, with that in mind, is there a big difference between the CLK63BS front calipers and SLK55 calipers? Would one need to modify the front sway bar mount for the SLK55 brakes? Thanks.
To answer your question. Any six piston or eight piston brake upgrade on the w202/208/170 will require this modification. If the sway bar was not on the same side of the caliper I would of been good. If you have a 210 then this will not be required.
Just got this pic yesterday. Eight piston. Said 500E on the back
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money-one: that is some sweetness. looks awesome. did you notice any appreciable difference in body roll with the front sway bar mount moved in? just curious...
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Nothing catastrophic. Being that my car is pretty low you dont notice much sway in the turns. Darts around just fine. Im sure this would almost be the equivalent of putting a larger diameter bar in the front (NOT in any way advocating this as a cheap mod to avoid the install of a beefier bar) Though I dont think no one is as stupid as me to do this. Now if this was done to a stock ride height C class the difference would be night and day
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When I first noticed the cut and shortened sway bar I didn't even think of the ends being closer to the middle adding rigidity. I could see it becoming much stiffer. I feel like the mounts would become stress points the closer you bring them in to centerline also though. I'm sure the couple inches made the bar much stiffer. try bending a coathanger at 2 inches then how hard it is at 1 inch. Just a random thought.
Awesome Work!
Awesome Work!
#25
Senior Member
hi all iam wanting to do this brake up grade to my w202 for the front with 6 pot cailpers but do I have to use the 2 piece rotors or can I use the 340mm rotors from the c32/c55 w203