started tear down for paint




what are you saying here?
if using these brass senders would they come off from engine vibrations?
when these sensors are screwed in they should sit tight?
would it be any good using Loctite threadlock gunk?
is it normal that they eventually fall off under normal driving situations?
are there any problems connecting 2 brass sensors onto the engine?
It's not so much a worry that they will leak, because of course you would screw the sender in tightly, it's a worry that a (sometimes) lengthy sending unit hanging off the end of the engine might itself crack, no matter how much thread sealant is applied.
I would also personally not have done with nhmercracer did, that seems like too many pieces in my view, more potential to leak with so many connections.
Unfortunately, I don't have any photos handy of the setup on my S2000, but that link I posted earlier shows a couple good photos. More complicated on the S2000 is the fact that the thread on the block is BSP, British Standard Pipe. So an adaptor was necessary, as I also indicated earlier, most of the gauges available here in North America use 1/8" NPT, National Pipe Thread. Start putting in all the adaptors and suddenly you have a relatively heavy and bulky sender hanging off two adaptors - recipe for disaster. So that's why the stainless hose is used to mount the sender remotely, relieving the stress off the sending unit.
then an adapter for each sender isn't necessary?
Are SS hoses connected on the back of the gauges?
Should I make a hole through rubber covers on firewall to get the SS hoses through?
Water might leak inside?
don't really understand this 1/8 NPT, National Pipe Thread?
is this an american thread size standard for bolts?
this is the one I need for my car the 1/8 NPT?
Are both thread sizes correct for our C43 cars?
M12 x 1.5
M14 x 1.5
Should I buy one M12 and one M14 for oil pressure and oil temp gauges, or same size M-- x 1.5 thread for both senders?
Don't really know which one of M12 or M14 goes where on my engine, don't want to buy the wrong size sensors where they don't belong.
Found a german ebay page with VDO sensors.
If anyone knows what brass sensors for oel pressure and oel temp fits our C43's please link them.
http://stores.ebay.de/Slspeed-Fahrze...=p4634.c0.m322
Found new VDO design gauges.
real cool stuff
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-52mm-D...item4ab78ff848
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-52mm-D...item3372804a2c
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-52mm-D...item4abf038b1e
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 12, 2012 at 05:38 PM.




The stainless hoses do not connect up to the gauge, they just connect the engine to the sender. The sender is mounted to the end of the hose; wiring runs from the sender to the back of the gauge.
Ideally, I would remove the lower oil pan and drill a hole in the side of the pan for the oil temperature sender. I wouldn't remote mount the oil temperature sender because if you do, then you are going to get cooler temperature than if you were taking the reading out of the pan.
The thread pitch on the oil test port is M12x1.5.
But I decided to ditch the oil temp in my setup. I'm now doing oil pressure and trans temp, and using the third gauge as an exact gauge look-alike Valentine-1 remote display




which one is better to get for fitting reasons, not getting stuck with other parts of the engine?
Short version:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/VDO-Temperatu...item416ea554a9
Long version:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/VDO-Temperatu...item3f1fb2636c




Of those two temperature senders, several points - a) I would use the smaller one, but b) you need to test fit it into the pan itself because there is a slight lip on the inside of the pan, it may or may not interfere; c) senders are typically meant to be mounted and left permanently, it's probably brass construction, not steel like the drain plug - so might be more wear and tear when doing oil changes; and d) be sure the sender is compatible with the gauge you intend to use, ie. is it in the correct temperature range?
The lower pan should be removable with the engine still on the car, it's held on by about 20 or so bolts. I'd suggest just removing it and doing the job 'right' by drilling a hole in the side of the pan, tapping it with the proper thread, then screwing the sender in that way. Then all of this discussion of length of the temperature sender, heat ranges and durability will be moot. Also, the wiring will be further out of the way too, as it would be mounted higher than if it was just at the drain plug.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Check it out for different style gauges.
http://aftermarket.continental-corpo...LOGUE_2011.pdf
Did my homework on these gauges.
What ya think?
Would these digital gauges look any good, because C43 cluster uses white face dials?
Did I find correct OEL senders in my attached pictures?
Also there is a picture with adaptors, is this correct size M14x1.5?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Mar 12, 2013 at 09:44 AM.
any problems getting the plastic trim from stealership, you're soon going to 3 hole gut it?

plastic trim has a folded plastic part on the above with 1 hole on each side, when you remove the pocket hole you have to screw the new trim with the same screws.
that adapter M12x1.5 for oel pressure port shown in 1st pic.
what's the partsnumber?
is that also a MB genuine part?
thanx man
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 14, 2012 at 06:42 PM.
http://www.vdo-gauges.com/instruments.html




Did you know that VDO belongs to the Continental Tyre group?
Did you know that VDO belongs to the Continental Tyre group?
that link must be for US market coz I see gauges being equipped with Fahrenheit scale.
it seems difficult to find correct european site?
I now know that VDO is part of Conti group.
A great merger.
any problems getting the plastic trim from stealership, you're soon going to 3 hole gut it?

plastic trim has a folded plastic part on the above with 1 hole on each side, when you remove the pocket hole you have to screw the new trim with the same screws.
that adapter M12x1.5 for oel pressure port shown in 1st pic.
what's the partsnumber?
is that also a MB genuine part?
thanx man
I see what you mean now about the screws. The bottom of the trim though seems to just clip in behind the ash tray/storage bin.
It is MB genuine, p/n W 166 589 00 63 00
That's page one stuff
that oel pressure sender of 10 BAR is kinda chunky, hooking it up with the above adapter and then screwing it into that tight spot where the oel testport is.
I wonder if the adapter and sender will fit with this oel port cover?
Is it the only place in front of the engine where this chunky sensor can be placed?
I also found these orange hats to color match my clusters illumination.
cool huh?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Mar 12, 2013 at 09:44 AM.
that oel pressure sender of 10 BAR is kinda chunky, hooking it up with the above adapter and then screwing it into that tight spot where the oel testport is.
I wonder if the adapter and sender will fit with this oel port cover?
Is it the only place in front of the engine where this chunky sensor can be placed?
I also found these orange covers to color match my clusters illumination.
cool huh?
Cool. Do those go over the bulbs inside the gauges then??
you just press the hat onto light bulb.
our clusters have orange illumination, it will look weird if you have three 52mm gauges with other than orange backlit color.
ask your nearest radioschack dealer if they can sell you 3 rubber hats?
I am curious if you're ever going to need that adapter for oel pressure sender?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 16, 2012 at 04:34 PM.
you just press the hat onto light bulb.
our clusters have orange illumination, it will look weird if you have three 52mm gauges with other than orange backlit color.
ask your nearest radioschack dealer if they can sell you 3 rubber hats?
I am curious if you're ever going to need that adapter for oel pressure sender?
show us pictures how you come up with smart solutions and when you are going to assemble everything step by step
But I will definitely make a big post about my endeavors when it all comes together.




one end goes to the sender which goes into the engine, the other end from the same SS hose, where does it go?
does it go into the cabin and plugged to the back of the gauge?
if yes, then braided line must be sealed when going through the front
firewall, don't want any water drippin' inside the cabin.

that would be stupeed!
is it this way you had in mind fitting a braided line under dashboard re-routing the braided line?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 16, 2012 at 05:12 PM.




Adapter screwed in the engine block. SS line attached to the end of the adapter and finally the sender to the other end of the SS line. Electric wires attached to the sender. Wires go through the firewall and attached to the gauge. Bingo, you have a reading
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Dec 17, 2012 at 03:49 AM. Reason: Mod







