started tear down for paint




ProjectC55 - haven't done anything with the swap. Winter happened, a bit earlier than usual. We had snow before Halloween, and a big dump in the past couple of weeks too. I don't really want to get into such a big project in the cold, so I'm just gonna wait until spring. Everything's on hold for now, so nothing to report unfortunately! I'm keen for warmer weather to arrive, lemme tell you, I can't wait to get stuck in...
#202 828 00 30
you need to drill the holes yourself esé and then install 52mm gauges.
does anyone know the size of these gauge sensors for mercedes?
need to know size for Oil temp and oil pressure?
is it M14x1,5 or something else?
look at these pics, borrowed them from another bloke.
he used old style audi gauges for this mod
I will use white face VDO gauges to colormatch my speedo
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Mar 12, 2013 at 09:44 AM.




If I installed such a panel, I would choose the following dials to monitor the following:
- Engine oil temperature
- Engine oil pressure
- Gearbox oil temperature/rear axle temperature with a two way switch
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?...Viewline_White
or
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?...=Vision_Silver
oil pressure gauges comes in 5 bar and 10 bar versions.
I assume a 10 bar gauge is suitable for a V8 or.........?
#202 828 00 30
you need to drill the holes yourself esé and then install 52mm gauges.
does anyone know the size of these gauge sensors for mercedes?
need to know size for Oil temp and oil pressure?
is it M14x1,5 or something else?
look at these pics, borrowed them from another bloke.
he used old style audi gauges for this mod
I will use white face VDO gauges to colormatch my speedo
Last edited by nd4spd13; Dec 6, 2012 at 05:34 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Regarding oil temp and oil pressure, there is the oil pressure test port on the front of the motor, that would be the easiest way. But it'd only be easy to get one sender in there. If you want to run two, then I would run an adaptor into the port, a length of stainless hose, then a 'T', and then the two senders into the T. Even if you run just a single sender, it would be a good idea to run the stainless line. Doing so allows some relief to the sender. Not saying it would crack and fall off in normal driving conditions, but it might - and that's the last thing you want.
I've done the same process on my old Saabs, and on my S2000 (and another fellow's S2000). Something along these lines:
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/8924...-sendersensor/




Same size as the oil pan? That'd sure be nice.Regarding the oil pressure, do we have a stock sender of any kind? Is there just a level sensor somewhere that sets of the oil light in the car?
Regarding oil temp and oil pressure, there is the oil pressure test port on the front of the motor, that would be the easiest way. But it'd only be easy to get one sender in there. If you want to run two, then I would run an adaptor into the port, a length of stainless hose, then a 'T', and then the two senders into the T. Even if you run just a single sender, it would be a good idea to run the stainless line. Doing so allows some relief to the sender. Not saying it would crack and fall off in normal driving conditions, but it might - and that's the last thing you want.
I've done the same process on my old Saabs, and on my S2000 (and another fellow's S2000). Something along these lines:
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/8924...-sendersensor/
Yes!! I'm checking with Canadian dealers tomorrow just to be sure, seeing as they are a little more euro friendly here.




I've also checked with my parts guy at the local Benz indy shop I use for that part. See what's what.
#202 828 00 30
you need to drill the holes yourself esé and then install 52mm gauges.
does anyone know the size of these gauge sensors for mercedes?
need to know size for Oil temp and oil pressure?
is it M14x1,5 or something else?
look at these pics, borrowed them from another bloke.
he used old style audi gauges for this mod
I will use white face VDO gauges to colormatch my speedo
Don't know what size the trans or engine oil pan plug is.




Most aftermarket senders (at least on this side of the Atlantic) are going to be 1/8" NPT male. I would thus find a male M12x1.5 to male -3 or -4 adaptor, run the stainless line (something off the shelf from Earl's or Goodridge or Aeroquip - $20-25), then to the T. Might be easiest to get a 1/8" NPT female T, then need a -3 or -4 adaptor to the NPT for the stainless line. Then plug in the senders and away you go.
One other problem, or hurdle I guess, is that there is not a lot of space between the test port and the rad and the belt. Might need an angled adaptor in there too, so as to get the line routed nice and safely.
Then it's just a matter of running the wiring and you're done!
Most aftermarket senders (at least on this side of the Atlantic) are going to be 1/8" NPT male. I would thus find a male M12x1.5 to male -3 or -4 adaptor, run the stainless line (something off the shelf from Earl's or Goodridge or Aeroquip - $20-25), then to the T. Might be easiest to get a 1/8" NPT female T, then need a -3 or -4 adaptor to the NPT for the stainless line. Then plug in the senders and away you go.
One other problem, or hurdle I guess, is that there is not a lot of space between the test port and the rad and the belt. Might need an angled adaptor in there too, so as to get the line routed nice and safely.
Then it's just a matter of running the wiring and you're done!

Am I right in thinking that the plus of having two senders is just more accurate readings?
Also, from what I've found, test port is M12 x 1.5, engine oil plug is M14 x 1.5, and trans plug is M10 x 1. The site that Kowalski quoted above has senders in all these sizes
(or you can get the one main size that comes with adapters for a little cheaper, but I'm not sure how great that'd be)
Last edited by nd4spd13; Dec 6, 2012 at 11:35 PM.
I've also checked with my parts guy at the local Benz indy shop I use for that part. See what's what.
Confirmed! Canada is more Euro friendly. Dash piece on backorder from Germany, they said 3-5 weeks, and ~$35.00 CAD, and also got the test port piece, ~$3.50.
Am I right in thinking that the plus of having two senders is just more accurate readings?
Also, from what I've found, test port is M12 x 1.5, engine oil plug is M14 x 1.5, and trans plug is M10 x 1. The site that Kowalski quoted above has senders in all these sizes
(or you can get the one main size that comes with adapters for a little cheaper, but I'm not sure how great that'd be)is it the oil cover infront of the engine?
is it for this part in my pic?
what are the sensor sizes for oil pressure and oil temp gauge?
what are the adapters you refer to?
is there a 1 piece multiadapter for both oil temp + oil pressure gauges sensors?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 16, 2012 at 03:12 PM.
is it the oil cover infront of the engine?
is it for this part in my pic?
what are the sensor sizes for oil pressure and oil temp gauge?
what are the adapters you refer to?
is there a 1 piece multiadapter for both oil temp + oil pressure gauges sensors?
The sizes for the senders are the same as the bolts that fit in there now, so you can refer to my last post. the oil temp, if putting the temp sender where the oil pan plug is, is M14 x 1.5. For the oil pressure, if you put the sender directly into the port, it'll be M12 x 1.5, or you can connect a hose to that port, and have the other end of the hose have a connector in whatever size you like (whatever is the cheapest size sender
For the adaptors, you can either buy a sender in the exact size you need, or a generic size that comes with washers to make it fit whatever size the hole is. So basically, you can buy an M14 x 1.5 size sender, or a generic size sender with adapter-washers that make it fit an M14 x 1.5 size fitting.
Or you may have been referring to the oil test port adapter, p/n #166 589 00 63 00. This is what you need to hook up something to the test port.
Also all this info is just from my research yesterday, so if anyone knows better, please chime in. I'm just excited for this because after seeing Kowalski and Saab talk about this, it is the perfect price/difficulty for the winter-break project I was looking for
Last edited by nd4spd13; Dec 7, 2012 at 03:51 PM.




1 bolt at the bottom of the pan and 1 bolt on the side if I'm not mistaken?
should each of these wirelooms for oil temp + oil pressure be dressed by a SS - braid to avoid heat or something else?




The only protection I would do on the wiring would be to fit it inside a length of plastic wire loom. Of course, whenever I've done wiring, I always soldered and used heat shrink wrapping. Doing anything less, eg. butt connectors, is easier but in my view, a lot less secure. I basically rewired my Saab when I put it on stand alone engine management, and I soldered and heat shrunk every connection. Never an issue. It's been about 10 years since I did all that work, and while I don't own the car anymore, it is still on the road.
Metal panel soldered and screwed to the factory cubbie. I had to cut away most of the cubbie to make this work.

"Pagoda" adapter I built to route the line away from the belt. I did not want the tubing to exit from inside the belt routing.
I have plans to replace the nylon tube with stainless, but have had no troubles thus far.
Another side view of the parts I used. All but the adapter from my local Mom & Pop hardware.
The adapter I sourced from AutoZone. It is an AutoMeter stock part. I believe you are all correct, and it is M12 x 1.5 to 1/8 NPT. IF I remember correctly.
Regarding oil temp and oil pressure, there is the oil pressure test port on the front of the motor, that would be the easiest way. But it'd only be easy to get one sender in there. If you want to run two, then I would run an adaptor into the port, a length of stainless hose, then a 'T', and then the two senders into the T. Even if you run just a single sender, it would be a good idea to run the stainless line. Doing so allows some relief to the sender. Not saying it would crack and fall off in normal driving conditions, but it might - and that's the last thing you want.
I've done the same process on my old Saabs, and on my S2000 (and another fellow's S2000). Something along these lines:
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/8924...-sendersensor/
what are you saying here?
if using these brass senders would they come off from engine vibrations?
when these sensors are screwed in they should sit tight?
would it be any good using Loctite threadlock gunk?
is it normal that they eventually fall off under normal driving situations?
are there any problems connecting 2 brass sensors onto the engine?
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; Dec 12, 2012 at 02:13 AM.



