Strut brace for W202

For me personally, the strut brace money would go straight into the LSD block plate for my C36. The kind of a difference that can make is a deal breaker.
Coming from a BMW E36 platform, theres so many things I would like the W202 to be that its simply miles away from, it sometimes makes me doubt myself on this purchase. But this is before I knew we could get these LSDs professionally modified.

btw, i have a c230 and I was putting a keyless entry/trunk release kit. that's why you see all those wires.

btw, i have a c230 and I was putting a keyless entry/trunk release kit. that's why you see all those wires.
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From the photo, it seems that the strut bar mounting plate is sandwiched and held together with the top shock fixing nut. I don't think this is a good idea, as you cannot torque that nut too much without damaging the shock
IMO the strut bar mounting plate needs to be fixed solidly to the shock tower with at least three bolts and nuts in a triangle, or weld the mounting plate to the chassis and bolt the strut bar to the mounting plates
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In the end i'm going to use different materials and a different mounting point. I can't just start buying stuff blind without test fitting it first. You can feel the difference at higher speeds when taking corners fast.
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Jun 4, 2010 at 11:06 AM.




I used to build mustangs on the weekends and I've always installed monte carlo bars and shelby tower braces on all the mustangs ive built. Mustangs have a very weak front unibody design that makes them flex a lot. I would also add subframe connectors and bigger sway bars to the front. Making a 69 mustang handle better is way harder than a mercedes.
Want to check how much flex is in your unibody?
Get some tape and a jack. Tape in the form of an X and a H across your engine bay. Make sure the tape doesn't touch or stick to each other. Jack your car up and you'll see how the gap gets bigger as you jack the car up. That's the body flexing that we want to limit.
For the rear suspension movements (body roll) bigger sway bars and solid sway bar end links would fix that problem. A stiff chassis does not equal a stiff suspension.
check this video out of a 2010 camaro. After watching it do you still think this is useless?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1QXOpEiN9Y
Ferrari with a stiff chassis.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIUCnDBjvvY
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Jun 4, 2010 at 11:57 AM.




I also am not familliar with the W202's subframe but on the 300E its basically four large bolts (all of which enter through a subframe bushing) that hold the whole assembly onto the unibody. As others have said above, great start on the strut braces, this looks very promising! Also good to see you over here YNVDIZ, haven't been in the W124 section in ages.
The floor area of the W202 is one of the strongest areas of the car. The loads from the suspension, which would cause any chassis deflection, are transmitted through the mounts to the strongest area of the car. If you still want to reinforce the chassis, do it where the loads a greatest - around the mounts and put a rollcage in it. The jack test is deflecting the entire chassis so strengthen the whole unit.

How about we just leave it here
Along with the 7/8" thick swaybar I fab'ed up and the Penske adjustable shocks the rear of the car works great.
Up front I would love to put a shock tower bar in to stiffen the chassis but have not gotten around to it yet. What I have done is fab up a new swaybar that is 1.25" thick and replaced the outer mounts with rod ends and I run the Penke shocks and of course light weight wheels by SSR.
But I would like to stiffen the chassis in the front a little more as I can feel it flex a little when I am really going through the corners fast, using my R-compound tires in the summer. I just need to get some more 8mm nutserts so I can attach the brace to the sheet metal securely.
Jeff
Jeff
I have some camber arms for the rear but I'm not confident about the rod ends I bought on ebay. Where did you get yours if I may ask?
The thought part about the front is hood clearance and making sure it doesn't hit the throttle cable. I'm basically going to try to copy the wiechers strut bar for the front. I haven't been able to find one for sale so i guess i have to work with what I have.
I made this in sketch up for the rear tie bar....

Along with the 7/8" thick swaybar I fab'ed up and the Penske adjustable shocks the rear of the car works great.
Up front I would love to put a shock tower bar in to stiffen the chassis but have not gotten around to it yet. What I have done is fab up a new swaybar that is 1.25" thick and replaced the outer mounts with rod ends and I run the Penke shocks and of course light weight wheels by SSR.
But I would like to stiffen the chassis in the front a little more as I can feel it flex a little when I am really going through the corners fast, using my R-compound tires in the summer. I just need to get some more 8mm nutserts so I can attach the brace to the sheet metal securely.
Jeff
Jeff

I'm decent in solidworks for simple things like that. If you ever need a .dwg file for rapid prototyping or CNC work I can help you out, or just send you SW on a disk, or send you an invite to Iptorrents so you can download it. I'm rambling, keep doing your thang, don't bother sipping any of that haterade.

I'm decent in solidworks for simple things like that. If you ever need a .dwg file for rapid prototyping or CNC work I can help you out, or just send you SW on a disk, or send you an invite to Iptorrents so you can download it. I'm rambling, keep doing your thang, don't bother sipping any of that haterade.





