Anyone have any experience with the wiechers strut brace? I know W202's don't really have struts but I assume tying your 2 sides together can only help the handling. I found a thread from 1 year ago from a guy who has a company called MBARTS or something like that. He had made some braces for the W204 and W203 and was thinking about making one for the W202. The ones he had made for the W203 and W204 were SICK!!!! I emailed the guy to see if he is still in business, I will post the info as soon as I get it.

 

I tried to grab one for the W124 but apparently they cannot import the Weichers into America anymore?

 

Well as you'd already noted, that wouldn't impact handling much. I'd even go so far to say that there would be no noticeable effect, so I would consider that mostly a cosmetic enhancement.

For me personally, the strut brace money would go straight into the LSD block plate for my C36. The kind of a difference that can make is a deal breaker.

Coming from a BMW E36 platform, theres so many things I would like the W202 to be that its simply miles away from, it sometimes makes me doubt myself on this purchase. But this is before I knew we could get these LSDs professionally modified.

 

I made a brace for the rear. I'll come up with the front in a couple of weeks...

 

Interesting.... Can you take some more pics of the mounting? Are you going to be producing these for sale?

 

I made it just to show people in the w208 section that I could make one. I'm not planning on putting them for sale but I can show everyone how to make one. It's going to take some time because I need to do more testing and fitting on this one. I know I can come up with all kinds of stuff for the 202 and my next mod is going to be a double din touch screen and a/c control relocation.

btw, i have a c230 and I was putting a keyless entry/trunk release kit. that's why you see all those wires.

 

I am interested in making one of these, please let us know how when you get a chance

 

Interesting idea and concept. Don't know the improvements this mod can have, but something to rigidify the shock towers is always a good idea. However, if I may make a wee comment...
From the photo, it seems that the strut bar mounting plate is sandwiched and held together with the top shock fixing nut. I don't think this is a good idea, as you cannot torque that nut too much without damaging the shock IMO the strut bar mounting plate needs to be fixed solidly to the shock tower with at least three bolts and nuts in a triangle, or weld the mounting plate to the chassis and bolt the strut bar to the mounting plates

 

It was installed like that so i can get rough measurements of what i need to order. I still need to make the bar 1" shorter so it could be more adjustable. There are two nuts on the shocks, the mounts are sandwiched between them. My plan is to find another bracket and bolt it to the shock towers front and rear. The rear will require drilling with the new brackets.

In the end i'm going to use different materials and a different mounting point. I can't just start buying stuff blind without test fitting it first. You can feel the difference at higher speeds when taking corners fast.

 

Thanks for the info. Looks good and keep us posted please!

 

Since the shocks have no function whatsoever in locating the rear suspension all that bar does is mess up the luggage floor. If one is worried about undesireable movents in the rear suspension look at the rear subframe mounts. All rear suspension links work off the subframe.

 

These bars have nothing to do with movements in the suspension. Our cars have a unibody that tends to flex a lot. This would tie the front/rear shock towers together to limit the flex between them horizontally and vertically. This is just one step to making the car handle better.

I used to build mustangs on the weekends and I've always installed monte carlo bars and shelby tower braces on all the mustangs ive built. Mustangs have a very weak front unibody design that makes them flex a lot. I would also add subframe connectors and bigger sway bars to the front. Making a 69 mustang handle better is way harder than a mercedes.

Want to check how much flex is in your unibody?

Get some tape and a jack. Tape in the form of an X and a H across your engine bay. Make sure the tape doesn't touch or stick to each other. Jack your car up and you'll see how the gap gets bigger as you jack the car up. That's the body flexing that we want to limit.

For the rear suspension movements (body roll) bigger sway bars and solid sway bar end links would fix that problem. A stiff chassis does not equal a stiff suspension.

check this video out of a 2010 camaro. After watching it do you still think this is useless?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1QXOpEiN9Y


Ferrari with a stiff chassis.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIUCnDBjvvY

 

Very interesting. Didn't know the C43 and I assume other W202's have a subframe. Would be nice to see how the subframe reacts with some aggressive driving. If so, what about some stiffer subframe connectors? Do they exist?

 

I know for W124 sportline editions they do in fact offer factory bushings for the rear subframe that are stiffer than the usual counterpart.

I also am not familliar with the W202's subframe but on the 300E its basically four large bolts (all of which enter through a subframe bushing) that hold the whole assembly onto the unibody. As others have said above, great start on the strut braces, this looks very promising! Also good to see you over here YNVDIZ, haven't been in the W124 section in ages.

 

Camaros and Mustangs??? Shelby added the cross bar because the Falcon/Comet chassis was so weak it collapsed under it's own weight over time. I sold Shelby equipment for a FOMOCO back in the day and visited the Venice shop. Pete Brock showed how weak that old chassis was with a carpenters bar clamp!

The floor area of the W202 is one of the strongest areas of the car. The loads from the suspension, which would cause any chassis deflection, are transmitted through the mounts to the strongest area of the car. If you still want to reinforce the chassis, do it where the loads a greatest - around the mounts and put a rollcage in it. The jack test is deflecting the entire chassis so strengthen the whole unit.

 

The problem with mustangs, falcons, cougars, was the shock towers cracking where the upper control arm mounts. There is also just a bar under the engine and no real cross member. To solve that problem many people just did the mustang II conversion and welded in a "real" cross member. You can also install a sub frame cage and weld in plates on the front and rear frame rails to box it in but what do i know..

How about we just leave it here . There are too many mbworld engineers that will give their opinion with no real solutions. If someone has a better idea, make something, and post it on here. Less talk, more action...

 

To help strenthen my car I added a rear shock tower brace that is made out of 2.75" diamater SS steel and is mounted with four bolts to each side of the inner fender in the trunk. I also added a small bar to attach both sides of the rear subframe together and every rear suspension link has been replaced with ones I made using rod end( heim joint bearings) and tubing.

Along with the 7/8" thick swaybar I fab'ed up and the Penske adjustable shocks the rear of the car works great.

Up front I would love to put a shock tower bar in to stiffen the chassis but have not gotten around to it yet. What I have done is fab up a new swaybar that is 1.25" thick and replaced the outer mounts with rod ends and I run the Penke shocks and of course light weight wheels by SSR.

But I would like to stiffen the chassis in the front a little more as I can feel it flex a little when I am really going through the corners fast, using my R-compound tires in the summer. I just need to get some more 8mm nutserts so I can attach the brace to the sheet metal securely.

Jeff

Jeff

 

That's what i'm talking about!

I have some camber arms for the rear but I'm not confident about the rod ends I bought on ebay. Where did you get yours if I may ask?

The thought part about the front is hood clearance and making sure it doesn't hit the throttle cable. I'm basically going to try to copy the wiechers strut bar for the front. I haven't been able to find one for sale so i guess i have to work with what I have.

I made this in sketch up for the rear tie bar....

 

The reason I never made the braces a year ago was because 1) no one wanted to do any cutting or drilling whatsoever, which in some cases is necessary to get the correct size bar installed without it only being for looks and 2) people only wanted to pay $75-100 for the product which is ridiculous for a race quality custom front brace.

 

WOW..... PLEASE POST PICS!!!!

 

Are you the MB ARTS guy??????

 

SKETCHUP FTMFW! I REALLY wish it was a vector drawing app.

I'm decent in solidworks for simple things like that. If you ever need a .dwg file for rapid prototyping or CNC work I can help you out, or just send you SW on a disk, or send you an invite to Iptorrents so you can download it. I'm rambling, keep doing your thang, don't bother sipping any of that haterade.

 

I LOVE THIS PLACE......everyone's so friendly

 

fyi Sick_C36 is working on some 202 bars as well, I'm on the list to know about it when progress is made, maybe he'll chime in here too.

 

Can I be added to the list????