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I have PM'd the moderators to make this thread a sticky as there is good info in this thread. Everyone should PM the moderators until they make this thread a sticky.
How does that W202 go? I have the v6 and am enjoying it, the stock 5 speed and the traction control make me crazy but the car is so civilized and moves along rapidly with no fanfare. I can't wait to get the V8 clk going. I am already wanting a 5.4 though. And a 5 speed stick, i have heard that conversion is not for the fain of heart or financially challenged.
Last edited by das_ist_gut; 03-25-2018 at 08:53 AM.
Yikes using a 43 to haul a trailor? That like a Porsche pulling a caravan
Here in Swizzyland you can't get a w202 haul hook assembly on a C43 as this option was never homologated officially, so if you did try it would be an immediate road ban and a no-no
You have essentially a dodge truck drive train under a C series, why wouldn't you be able to pull a trailer? (Aside from government intervention).
I towed my brothers dead civic with mine on the end of a tow strap and it felt like there was nothing there.
Last edited by das_ist_gut; 03-25-2018 at 08:48 AM.
You have essentially a dodge truck drive train under a C series, why wouldn't you be able to pull a trailer? (Aside from government intervention).
I towed my brothers dead civic with mine on the end of a tow strap and it felt like there was nothing there.
Using a tow strap is no problem, just the tow hook is not allowed.
How does that W202 go? I have the v6 and am enjoying it, the stock 5 speed and the traction control make me crazy but the car is so civilized and moves along rapidly with no fanfare. I can't wait to get the V8 clk going. I am already wanting a 5.4 though. And a 5 speed stick, i have heard that conversion is not for the fain of heart or financially challenged.
im on my way to running 12's down the quarter with the 55 motor in my c43, so you can say she goes pretty well
You have essentially a dodge truck drive train under a C series, why wouldn't you be able to pull a trailer? (Aside from government intervention).
I towed my brothers dead civic with mine on the end of a tow strap and it felt like there was nothing there.
I can't tell if this is hyperbole or if you were being literal?
Yes, the w202 drivetrain is VERY durable and isn't stressed by towing, but it has absolutely nothing in common with a dodge truck.
ok guys so this weekend and possibly the next (depending on issues i run into) this swap will be in my car, but i have one question.
when replacing the rear crankshaft seal, the wis says to install with special tool, its kind of hard to imagine that every diy’er has this tool, i have also read that it is not needed “if you are careful”.
so the question is, have any of you installed this without the tool?
For the record my plan is to take the engine to a reputable mercedes indy shop and have them install it,
You can see the oil at the bottom Around the opening
Here again
Hey guys so im just about ready to mate the 55 to the trans, and I ran into this, im
not 100 percent sure if this oil that is on one side on the TC is coming from the trans, you think i should attempt to change the trans seal my self?
Another question I had was, what preliminary steps can i take to assure the trans and the engine are 100 aligned, i have heard multiple time of the torque not engaging properly because of alignment, do you guy have any say in this?
did you have to buy any special tool for rear main seal?
did you have to add any lube or any other part to seal the rear main seal properly?
is there anything else like a gasket to replace when you do the rear main seal?
Did you also buy the lubrication for ring gear avoiding future starters issues?
Don't remember if this is the correct name Optimol?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
What's the parts number for this ring gear tooth paste?
hey bro,
I definitely recommended buying an oil seal puller , the one with two hooks to take out, mine was really in there
i made a tool at my local hardware store to install the seal, i had pushed the top part a little too much, and i had to put it out a little and it made a very small nudge at the top if you see
, i want to know if this will effect the sealing “power of the seal , the seal is seated evenly, no i did add trans oil around the seal before installing, the wis does state use the multi purpose paste but is this 100 percent neccesary???
Also the TC should stick out 3/4 of an inch, you can see the fly wheel
mounting holes are also 3/4 inch inn
So I am done with the c55 swap and want to contribute a little bit on some of the things that might help out,
First, off things, I recommend changing
-valve cover gaskets
- take out and resealing oil pan – bottom only
- intake manifold gaskets – if using original c43 ME2.0 wiring harness, you will have to take off two connectors anyways….
- throttle body o ring – connectors do change from ME2.0 to ME2.8, so if the motor is from new ME2.8 you will be using your throttle body
- injector O rings, make sure to use 5.4 injectors and not the 4.3’s, don’t really know the difference YET but they are different part numbers, and I would assume the 5.4’s are larger CC's.
- water/coolant pump…, gaskets differ from 4.3 to 5.4, 5.4 typically flat
- if you replace headers with high-performance one’s or at the least replace gaskets, be sure to buy all studs and nuts new, you will most likely snap some, “get ready to get your torch out!
- v belt
- right side exhaust gasket –“down pipe to resonator” if you live in the midwest-east, this most likely will be rusted to hell
- transmission pan and gasket + filter
- belt tensioner
- spark plug
- rear crankshaft seal – a must…no special tool needed, if you have it great, otherwise, wood block and a rubber mallet, tapping at 12-6 and 9-3 etc will get it in right,
- transmission oil pump seal - a must… rent a tool or make your own, - I made my own at Lowes for 6 bucks, just measure transmission shaft, get a pipe that is longer than it, a plastic PVC end cap, and tape its end with electrical tape, worked perfectly
Here is a pic
the other end was capped
- transmission oil – of course, MERC COMPLIANT
- engine oil – “ “
- coolant – “ “
Crucial TOOLS THAT YOU WILL NEED -
-WIS
- Engine hoist leveler, MUST HAVE!! I bought a 1.5 big red, if I were to do it again, I would go a little more heavy duty, maybe 2 ton
-
- large capacity container to hold all oils...and a couple of 5-gallon buckets to dispose of them in
- spark plug socket with pivot attachment - perfect for hitting in required coolant fitting at the rear of the engine, this fitting has been previously mentioned
the pivot lets you tap the fitting at different angles
rubber prevents any damage
-Allen, Torx allen socket, Torx socket
-torx T55 will be needed! --Usually does not come in standard sets
- one tube of Mercedes gasket/rtv from DEALER! - for oil pan, oil cooler gaskets on valve cover - and I believe something else dont remember...
- impact drill with sockets - helps when removing bolts etc, DO NOT EVER USE WHEN TIGHTENING A BOLT BACK UP! unless only going about 3/4's of the way
- a helping hand, when tightening FLYWHEELS bolts, the helping hand should hold crankshaft pulley in place and also assist in aligning and mounting the tranny- I used the engine lift with leveler and a trans jack to align
- endoscopic camera - to me it is worth looking at your pistons through the spark plug, just to make sure nothing funky is in there before proceeding to lay the motor back in... these are available on amazon or ebay.
1998 C43 w/ 55 swap Wavetrac LSD and 6-Speed manual
For this swap - does the engine lift straight out easily or is taking the radiator, condensor, headlights, and front radiator support out the recommendation?
For this swap - does the engine lift straight out easily or is taking the radiator, condensor, headlights, and front radiator support out the recommendation?
your condensor and radiator would and must be pulled out before taking the motor out!
Take off the front bumper as well, for ease and not worrying about damaging anything.
No need to remove headlight,
you need and engine leveler 100000000 percent to get this motor out, dont start the job without one.
When doing a 55 engine swap, I personally would also remove the transmission (gearbox) to replace the oil seals at both ends, then reassemble the trans and engine together and replace into the vehicle as one unit. It means more weight to move around, but perhaps the job would be easier overall. Perhaps some extra muscle power would also be needed. Just my 2p, so I stand to be corrected.
When doing a 55 engine swap, I personally would also remove the transmission (gearbox) to replace the oil seals at both ends, then reassemble the trans and engine together and replace into the vehicle as one unit. It means more weight to move around, but perhaps the job would be easier overall. Perhaps some extra muscle power would also be needed. Just my 2p, so I stand to be corrected.
i agree with DRBC, I dont think I would ever remove the engine and not the trans but I would remove the trans and not the engine thou, if i had to...the amount of work only favors in removal of the trans and not the contrary.
If someone would ever to do so, close attention to parrallell removal of the crankshaft to TOrque converter adaptation is key!!!!!
03-25-2018 | 08:24 AM
using a 43 to haul a trailor? That like a Porsche pulling a caravan 
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