Clean MAF or replace?
03-02-2011, 02:34 PM
#1
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Clean MAF or replace?
Hi guys, took my C36 to my local mechanic and code was stored for maf. He is usually reasonable but it trying to charge me $280 for the part & $200 for labor. I told him I will be picking the car up, I found the Bosch part for $230 and it looks pretty straight forward to replace, not 2hrs like he stated. My question is should I replace or try the cleaning method, I do not want a recurring issue if I go w/ the cleaning route. Let me know your thoughts? Thx!
Any DIY links out there?
Any DIY links out there?
Last edited by RPB; 03-02-2011 at 02:40 PM.
03-02-2011, 02:48 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hi guys, took my C36 to my local mechanic and code was stored for maf. He is usually reasonable but it trying to charge me $280 for the part & $200 for labor. I told him I will be picking the car up, I found the Bosch part for $230 and it looks pretty straight forward to replace, not 2hrs like he stated. My question is should I replace or try the cleaning method, I do not want a recurring issue if I go w/ the cleaning route. Let me know your thoughts? Thx!
Any DIY links out there?
Any DIY links out there?
03-02-2011, 02:51 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
What year
C36 and what shape connector on the Maf?
Bosch unit depending on the above are between 16o and 190 bucks with free shipping.
What were the codes? Do you have your own scanner? Takes 10 minutes to r/r the maf.
Then don't clear the codes or disconnect the battery,just let the ecu adapt to the new maf and the codes will clear themselves without you having to drive cycle the car to set all the I/M monitors to ready state.
Run from that shop asap.
Cleaning with crc brand maf cleaner will in all likelihood with codes present only be a short term solution if it worked at all. Use the seven bucks saved and put towards the replacement.
Order a new air filter at the same time. The car and the new maf will thank you for it.
Bosch unit depending on the above are between 16o and 190 bucks with free shipping.
What were the codes? Do you have your own scanner? Takes 10 minutes to r/r the maf.
Then don't clear the codes or disconnect the battery,just let the ecu adapt to the new maf and the codes will clear themselves without you having to drive cycle the car to set all the I/M monitors to ready state.
Run from that shop asap.
Cleaning with crc brand maf cleaner will in all likelihood with codes present only be a short term solution if it worked at all. Use the seven bucks saved and put towards the replacement.
Order a new air filter at the same time. The car and the new maf will thank you for it.
Last edited by ohlord; 03-02-2011 at 02:57 PM.
03-02-2011, 04:42 PM
#4
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C43 AMG
my maf on my c43 recently went i tried cleaning with crc mas cleaner but did nothing, when i had it plugged in to the star diag the maf sensor was gone so replaced it and car runs great now. if the error code was comming up dont bother cleaning just replace
03-02-2011, 06:08 PM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Piece of cake DIY
Go to this website LINK and order they're $179 - it is literally a 20 minute replacement. You'll need a security torx bit.
03-02-2011, 07:32 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
If only he
had a C43 genuine bosch are $146 delivered www.autohausaz.com
His C36 is $168 or the higher priced unit not provided by germanstar upgraded C36 maf sensor dealer fitted upgrade. That's why he needs to check the harness.
Where did you locate a C36 maf on the germanstar catalog ?
If it takes him 20 minutes he must be doing it with one hand tied behind his back
His C36 is $168 or the higher priced unit not provided by germanstar upgraded C36 maf sensor dealer fitted upgrade. That's why he needs to check the harness.
Where did you locate a C36 maf on the germanstar catalog ?
If it takes him 20 minutes he must be doing it with one hand tied behind his back
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03-02-2011, 10:45 PM
#8
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83 500SEC, 87 300D, 02 C32(x2), 02 C320T (x2), 03 C320T4, 03 C320T, 03 E55, 05 E320CDI, 06 E320CDI
don't even need the bit, just a pair of vice grips in a pinch 
also the MAF insert can be had for $100 or less. http://www.brinsonco.com/location.htm
I deal with the Va location.
also the MAF insert can be had for $100 or less. http://www.brinsonco.com/location.htm
I deal with the Va location.
03-06-2011, 03:33 PM
#9
Junior Member
Yes Johnhef is right, it is best not using the torx bit, I purchased a set from e-bay as little as $7 delivered, I then put the "right" size on the screw, the screw will NOT turn/move. I used a ratchet with the new torx bit, but no can do, I then ended up STRIPPING the inside of the screw, making more damage to the MAF insert, so I then used a pair of long tip plyers and slowly the screw started to turn, and I removed the screw. I cleaned the MAF INSERT with BG MAF Cleaner spray $10 but nothing happened, my "Check Engine" light CODE P0170 is still "ON" after driving over 150 miles. I then cleared the code, and the "Check Engine" light came back on. I then cleaned the MOT, but same thing. I may have to replace the MAF, and see what happens, if this does not clear the light, then I will have to drive it with the light on. I am frustrated.
05-24-2011, 01:57 AM
#11
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06-02-2011, 10:26 PM
#13
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Wiha makes a superior set but Griots has cheap set too for 20 bucks - LINK
06-07-2011, 03:22 PM
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C55 AMG
Yes Johnhef is right, it is best not using the torx bit, I purchased a set from e-bay as little as $7 delivered, I then put the "right" size on the screw, the screw will NOT turn/move. I used a ratchet with the new torx bit, but no can do, I then ended up STRIPPING the inside of the screw, making more damage to the MAF insert, so I then used a pair of long tip plyers and slowly the screw started to turn, and I removed the screw. I cleaned the MAF INSERT with BG MAF Cleaner spray $10 but nothing happened, my "Check Engine" light CODE P0170 is still "ON" after driving over 150 miles. I then cleared the code, and the "Check Engine" light came back on. I then cleaned the MOT, but same thing. I may have to replace the MAF, and see what happens, if this does not clear the light, then I will have to drive it with the light on. I am frustrated.
Just a quick question. Is the picture you have loaded up the actual bit kit that you tried to use on your MAF? Reason I ask, all of those bits appeared to be the 6-point type, and I know my MAF screws are 5-point. Just asking.
