503C43 ////AMG

So I have decided to do the brakes next instead of the exhaust. I do not need exhaust I just want it but I NEED brakes, my fronts are @ 25%. I have been against cross drilled rotors due to the cracking issues but I have realized that is usually from tracking them and if I cryo treat them I should be good. I want the same stopping power or better with less brake dust and no squeaking. Here is my plan:

1.) Cross drilled rotors (cryo treated)
2.) Akebono brake pads
3.) Goodridge SS brake lines

What do you guys think? Any suggestions?

importfan21

1) I wouldn't go with cross-drilled. Slotted is better, as the integrity of the rotor is maintained. Motorsports teams use slotted.

Also, with cross-drilled, the escaping gas just goes through the holes and to the center (vented) part of the rotor where it is trapped (you don't dissipate heat, but rather trap it). Oh, and you lose surface area for pad bite.

Furthermore, cryo is too expensive. Just go for the zinc-plated rotors; you'll get the same quality for less.

3) Goodridge is good, but you might be able to find Stoptech ones for the same price if you do your looking. Not sure if you prefer one brand over the other.

503C43 ////AMG

1.) Yeah I have been leaning towards slotted over drilled but I can't seem to find any that are as cheap as the cross drilled that outlaw found. Then I start thinking about high performance vehicles (i.e Ferrari, Porsche, etc...) and they all have cross drilled rotors...

2.) I found a company that will cryo treat my rotors for $35 a rotor, not that expensive.

3.) I don't have any experience with Goodridge or Stoptech, can any one chime in here? Which is better?

Thanks for your input importfan21

importfan21

I'm not sure how cheap Outlaw got his, but I've been looking at two places

R1 Concepts: http://www.r1concepts.com/mercedesbe...rakes-disc.htm

Brake Performance: http://brakeperformance.com/brake-ro...ake-Rotors.php

503C43 ////AMG

I think he got all 4 rotors for $250...

I believe fronts were from a 2005+ C230K sport and the rears were from a C32

Saaboteur

I never did buy the whole negative idea of brake gases. I'd also suggest that if there are any, and they go through the drilled portion of the disc, then they would escape through the internal vents on the disc.

And of course lots of production cars come with drilled discs, ie. I think basically all Porsches.

The cheapest place I found the original C43 discs was autohausaz. The rears are the same for C43/32/55 and are relatively cheap.

I've used both Goodridge and Stoptech products over the years, on various vehicles. Both are high quality IMO and I think you would be happy with either. But Stoptech being American and Goodridge being British, you might find Stoptech for cheaper.

503C43 ////AMG

Yeah I find it hard to believe that Porsche, Ferrari, etc... are putting inferior brakes on their high end vehicles so cross drilled obviously serves a purpose, whether or not you will see the advantages of cross drilled on the street that is a different story.

Thanks for your input on Goodridge vs Stoptech, think I will support the home front and go with the Stoptech

503C43 ////AMG

Akebono brake pads and Stoptech SS brake lines have been ordered

I found the Akebonos brake pads the cheapest @ tirerack.com = $137 (front + rear) shipping included
I found the Stoptech SS brake lines on ebay through R1 concepts = $114 (front + rear) free shipping

Still searching for the rotors I want to go with...

ohlord

rotors are 5g a pop.They are designed for the suited purpose.
That's why they can use whatever they please no expence spared.
Aftermarket rotors for your car are just drilled oem rotors hardly purpose built and prone to cracking yes even in street use.
Avoid the issues get oe or oem,ST ss lines,quality ceramic pads,flush by pressure with dot4 fluid when done and replace the 3 brake wear sensors. 2 hours Saturday MORNING
Be done with it

Outlawlatemodel

hi guys yes i have drilled rotors and yes i am glad i saved 700 dollars and they were zink coated, if you have to get the c230 k sport or you will get 288mm front, the rear c32 are perfect no one sells rear drilled rotors for the c43 but c32 are exactly the same,,

say what you will but i have hd no problems am very happy with the out come

MarcusF

Ferrari doesn't use cross drilled rotors on their F1 cars. No one does. If holes were the hot ticket, you'd think at least at least one F1 team would use them. F1 isn't alone. No one in NASCAR either.

Take a look here. Read the quotes. Yes, cross drilled rotors look nice. But for performance? Once, again, read the quotes - read who they're from. Stoptech is quoted there. Read what they said.

WaveyKat

i have aset of brakes that may bolt up on your C-Class. see here https://mbworld.org/forums/suspensio...kes-setup.html

Chappy

For a street application, you would be hard pressed to get better perfomance out of the stock setup, though different pads can work better on track or offer less brake dust hassle. Everything is a compromise.

Stainless lines are a cheap mod, but again not vital. Does the SLR or CLK63 Black Series come from the factory with SS lines?

ECTurboGSX

I did Hawk HPS pads on the front and Akebonos on the rear with Goodridge lines all around. Kept the stock rotors. Everything feels good, the Hawks squeal when they are cold. I think the brake dust is perhaps a little less, but nothing remarkable.

503C43 ////AMG

You make a good point as usual Marcus

One of the best quotes from that article EVER:

Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

So it seems I was correct in my original plan to go with slotted rotors over cross drilled.

I would also like to point out something some of you may not be aware of but not all cross drilled rotors are "drilled". I work in a steel foundry and one of our other sites casts rotors. I looked at the tooling and in the "cross drilled rotors" we make the holes are cast in. I can only imagine that this would improve the strength of the "drilled" holes in the rotor...

503C43 ////AMG

Good point... I agree I do not think that the SS brake lines are going to improve my braking dramatically but they should help some...

503C43 ////AMG

Does anyone know where to get the OEM front rotors cheaper than Autohuas? They want $224 per rotor for the fronts and $61.66 for the rears The rears aren't bad at all but the fronts, man that's expensive!!!!

Saaboteur

I looked around extensively and Autohausaz was about the best price. Mbpartswarehouse might be close. The local dealers want about C$400 per front disc, and the beat local price I could find were about C$320 or so.

503C43 ////AMG

Yeah, I can get them locally for $270 so autohaus would be saving me about $100. I just figured they could be had for cheaper than $224...

DRBC43AMG

Consider yourselves lucky to have the choice of having other rotors available other than the OEMs. Impossible to have here and importing them will cost you probably more than the genuine ones after having taken the cost of transport, import taxes, etc.

Outlawlatemodel

sorry guys the holes are there to release gas, anyway do what you will, but you can also buy the rotors undrilled,,

503C43 ////AMG

That was true years ago...

Taken from the signal to noise web site:

Grassroots Motorsports:
"Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

Outlawlatemodel

been racing cars my whole life, you are putting way to much into this for a street car. my drilled rotors not only look cool but were inexpensive. none of our cars with over 50k miles will be highly collectible to mandate you have oe brakes. if you dont want c230k sport rotors weither drilled or not bounty up baby and spend 450 for the 2 front, its your money spend it how you want, but for the total invest ment of345 i have in my brakes they work as well if not better then oe, for me im happy, you can repost stuff all day long, but i have used slotted and drilled they work about the same to me, seems like anytime i have used none slotted or none drilled bolt on rotors they worped

MarcusF

Personally, I think the best brake upgrade the average driver can make is to take $1K and spend a day attending high performance driving school. Most people who attend come away amazed at what they didn’t know.

Unlike rotors, pads, or ultra-sticky gumball rubber, what is learned at a school won’t wear out unless alzheimers kicks in. If $1K sounds like a lot of coinage, think about this – if you drive for the next 30 years it will have cost you about nine cents a day. Alternatively, you could take a half day course for about half price. And on the drive home WISH you hadn’t been so cheap and ponied up for the full day - like those who lap you on track day did

BTW, many hot shoes are fast because they out brake their opponent, and in many cases it has NOTHING to do with the equipment on the car.

winks911

I just have this to say.
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1300047119