nhmercracer

Has anyone removed the reservoir from the master cylinder to clean it? I have a layer of black scum at the waterline of my reservoir, and I would like to remove it to clean it. My thought is to slightly depress the brake pedal to close off the fluid ports, drain, and remove the reservoir. After cleaning and drying, I will re-install the reservoir, and fill with new fluid, then bleed the brakes.

Comments?

DRBC43AMG

Why do you need to to this? Sounds to me that your brake fluid has been cooked and so old it is making deposits. Start by flushing all the system, replace with new good quality fluid (your life may depend on it one day). Sounds like the fluid in there is probably as old as the car

KJI3jflarryfe93

if your fluid never was changed, the brake fluid absorbs moist and your brake system will rust inside the brake components with inferior braking when you drive your car.
might be dangerous for you one day

nhmercracer

I replaced the fluid when I bought the car five years ago, then again in 2009 when I did the rear brakes (just before the transmission grenade'ed).

The dirty reservoir was driving me batty, as it made checking the level difficult.

I followed the procedure I outlined, and used the suggestions I received elsewhere. I depressed the brake pedal, and held it with a length of 2x4. Then I removed the reservoir. The fluid level in the transfer ports did not drop, so I was not worried about air intrusion.

I did use non-chlorinated brake cleaner with the straw to clean as much of the reservoir as possible. I dried the the reservoir as best I could with compressed air. Then I used the methylated spirits (container said denatured alcohol) to clean again. Compressed air to dry, followed by two rinses with fresh brake fluid. I re-installed the reservoir, and refilled with fresh fluid.

KJI3jflarryfe93

feiv years is waaaaaaaaaaay toooooooooooooo long teim to change fluids!!
every 2 years is recommended.
fluid is hydroscopic, I tink dis is de korekt vörd?
fluid absorbs moisture and the braking system will get funky one day.
pray not to loose braking in traffic if you drive like a carthief and needing to hit the brakes fast!
god speed

503C43 ////AMG

The word is hygroscopic and kowalski is right, you should be changing your brake fluid every 2 years as the brake fluid absorbs moisture and eventually has a lower boiling point and can lead to brake failure.

KJI3jflarryfe93

thanx for correcting my spelling, Mr. English professor.
I've got something for you, this is a real cool movie, one of my favorites
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRTwc68O6b8

MarcusF

If I'm reading this right, it sounds like you're following the schedule properly:

2007 - You bought the car and changed the brake fluid
2008
2009 - You changed the brake fluid
2010
2011 - While working on issues, you changed the fluid

If it's being flushed, the next question is - the new fluid, it's coming from a new "sealed" container, right? What brand of fluid are you using?

mtrevelino

If you can remove the reservoir, can't you just purchase a new one without purchasing the entire master cylinder? I believe that this is all the information you are seeking??? On my Volvo, the reservoir just popped off.
Mike T.

nhmercracer

Yes Marcus, that is what has happened. I am using fresh, newly purchased Valvoline synthetic in the white bottle. Previously I had used the Valvoline synthetic in the gold bottle. Seems this is no longer available.

The reservoir is separate from the master cylinder, and attaches with two grommets, and a screw.

The reservoir is in good condition with no whitening or other issues. I could have replaced it, next time I might. I just didn't want to wait for it.

Thank you all for the responses, I appreciate it.