Ok so a new set every 10k miles on my 6 set, something gotta change.

it looks like they just took the front rubbers out from on top the springs, any idea of what rubber raises what and were i can get them(they may have cut them) but no rubbers, im just tired of wearing out tires and constant rubbing, so i really want to raise it like a half inch that should increase tire wear, i have a couple heims made up for the rear,

pictures of your ride height and what you have done would be appreciated,

You've got it dropped too far and the stock eccentric can't compensate for the additional camber and toe. For the 1999 C43 I believe there are 4 different height spring pads available and the dealer will have them. They are not crazy expense. The backs you can change on the car with a spring compressor. The front you've got pull the strut out. Set the front first, then change back spring pads to get a level ride height. I had factory Euro height springs which gave me a nice 1" drop with number 1 pads in the front and 2 in the back. Be aware that sometimes you might even have to use different numbers side to side. You should also have front camber bolts that MBZ also sells.

Switch to a harder compound tire and rotate the tires out to in more often. And avoid Perrellis

If the inside or outside edges are wearing too fast you can also switch to symmetrical tires and swap them left to right.

you could also stop driving like a maniac!

I'm in the same boat with both my cars, the E and C. I'm tired of going through fronts ( and blowouts ) every 10k miles, and changing to winter tires (hankooks and sumitomos). Me thinks I'm going to All Weather Tires...

I believe you are talking about spring pads. The C43 has 5 different sizes for the front and 4 different sizes for the rear. I am dropped on Vogtland springs with a #5 pad in the front and a #4 pad in the rear, no rubbing.

If you do a search there are a number of threads with the part numbers for the spring pads.

I believe the #1 pad is 5mm and each pad goes up by 4mm but I could be mistaken on the interval size.

wheels are staggered cant rotate

i bought the car lowered, any idea how thick each pad is, the cars not a strut car you can use a compressor on the front

thats pretty funny seeing how they are all freeway miles, sorry i dont beat the car, the cars has way to much camber

Here are the part numbers for some of the pads:

210 321 01 84 pad#1 5 mm front
210 321 02 84 pad#2 9 mm front
210 321 03 84 pad#3 13 mm front
210 321 04 84 pad#4 17 mm front
210 321 05 84 pad#5 21 mm front

210 325 01 84 pad#1 5 mm rear
210 325 02 84 pad#2 9 mm rear
210 325 03 84 pad#3 13 mm rear
210 325 04 84 pad#4 17 mm rear

Like I said before I am running #5 in front and #4 in rear and the rear is still a tad higher than the nose.

They are relatively cheap from the dealer

If you're using symetrical tires and the inner edges (due to too much camber) are wearing out faster than the center, you can have the tires dismounted and swapped left to right. This keeps the tire rotation the same direction.

I know. I am suggesting Rotate the Right side tires onto the left side wheels and the left side tires onto the right side wheels. This way you are rotating the side that is wearing prematurely with the side that has a lot of meat...

with the c class rear camber problem comes a toe problem which in turn accelerates wear all across the tire, i have some rods and heim ends for the rear i am gonna put on should take out the camber and most of the rear toe

i really hate to buy the 350 dollar camber kit for the front

Why not just go to the dealer and ask them to RESET your camber to minimum spec? It can go to -.1deg. If you can do that your premature wear on the inside will cease because the tire won't be running on its inside edge all the time. It will be rinnumg across the whole tire footprint. Also don't let them tell you it's a TOE issue because if the tire is sitting right then toe will scrub the whole tire evenly. Of course you will get a LOT of resistance because it's apparently a pain for them to do it. The only reason the camber is so aggressive is for aggressive driving. Personally I don't drive aggressively so I had mine adjusted. It is perfectly fine for the highway drivers.

Me thinks I'll have to try that.

Yes. Once you install the rear camber kit you will need to have the toe reset. Bear in mind we don't want to take the car "out of spec". We just want to take it to a minimum. Think about it for a second. Caster is front to back tilt of the top to bottom axis the tire sits on. Camber is the inward and outward tilt angle of the top of the tire (negative is in and positive is out). If it is at zero, the tire sits flat against the road. If it is a little negative then it starts putting more pressure on the inside of the tire. When you do high speed turns, the car "tilts" and lays the tread flat on the road for better handling and traction. If we don't drive aggressively then we don't need as much camber. Toe is inward or outward angle at the front of the tires. If you move the camber closer to zero (reducing tire wear significantly) then it will pull the toe in accordingly. Toe will need to be reset. Camber bolts for a c230 are $32 each and an hour labor to install them at the dealership. It is much less expensive to fix your alignment than replace tires every 12k miles. That is my 2cents worth.:-)

oh, got ya......

How are all those different part #s the same pad #? I'm assuming you meant to type pad #1 (top) and subsequently work your way to #5 at the bottom right?

Good catch! EDITED

Sorry havent been on the camber problem is due to being lowered, sorry MB dealer said can not get the camber any better, the rears are wear because yes not only is there to much camber but lowereing the car creates toe in at the rear of the tires, front create toe out at front, seriously dont want to spend 400 dollars on camber kit,

i wouldnt bet on them helping,