Larger Sway Bar for C43
Depends on what you're looking for in terms of handling. Any upgrade on the rear sway bar I'd recommend fitted a LSD first as it would otherwise increase rear wheel unloading during cornering and reduce corner exit speed.
Factory bars are 28mm front and 18mm rear, H+R and Eibach bars are the same size.
I've settled for a custom 22mm rear bar and left the front alone, seems to be a great compromise, handle is much closer to neutral than factory spec.
Depends on what you're looking for in terms of handling. Any upgrade on the rear sway bar I'd recommend fitted a LSD first as it would otherwise increase rear wheel unloading during cornering and reduce corner exit speed.
Factory bars are 28mm front and 18mm rear, H+R and Eibach bars are the same size.
I've settled for a custom 22mm rear bar and left the front alone, seems to be a great compromise, handle is much closer to neutral than factory spec.




I have heard, but stand to be corrected, that changing the rear bar is a real PITA due to lack of access and tricky shape.




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I find that very interesting too. Everything I've heard says that the 208 is the same as ours. Especially a 4mm difference. Don't know if the 209 could fit at all, but finding something from a 209 black would be pretty sweet i'm sure
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Changing the rear bar is much more difficult than the front to change. It can be done by lowering the rear subframe (removing it it still the best way) but I would recommend for more inexperienced people to give to your mechanic to change instead.
I had a bar made by Shelby sway bars in Australia (I supplied the original as a sample).
It does still require some fab work with the brackets, I'd suggest just 20mm unless you're looking for a bigger handling change.
****Just to let you know that about 2 yrs after the sway bar change that I broke the RHR swaybar mount off the body. By design the RHR mount is much weaker than the LHR. I cant be sure if it was a conincidence or due to increased loads. Realisticly driving into a steep driveway or parking on a greatly uneven surface puts more load through the swaybars than driving it on a race track but you've been warned****
As a side note, I've got a theory that fabbing a much stronger front swaybar mount would be almost as effective as a bigger sway bar as they do flex alot in normal operation.

Changing the rear bar is much more difficult than the front to change. It can be done by lowering the rear subframe (removing it it still the best way) but I would recommend for more inexperienced people to give to your mechanic to change instead.
I had a bar made by Shelby sway bars in Australia (I supplied the original as a sample).
It does still require some fab work with the brackets, I'd suggest just 20mm unless you're looking for a bigger handling change.
****Just to let you know that about 2 yrs after the sway bar change that I broke the RHR swaybar mount off the body. By design the RHR mount is much weaker than the LHR. I cant be sure if it was a conincidence or due to increased loads. Realisticly driving into a steep driveway or parking on a greatly uneven surface puts more load through the swaybars than driving it on a race track but you've been warned****
As a side note, I've got a theory that fabbing a much stronger front swaybar mount would be almost as effective as a bigger sway bar as they do flex alot in normal operation.




On an other note, to eliminate or reduce understeer you need to brake into the corner to get weight transfer. Once you understand how that happens, the handling is transformed and everything becomes easy.
Last edited by DRBC43AMG; Sep 9, 2013 at 06:05 PM.





https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...y-bar-kit.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...y-bar-kit.html
I do fogget stuff.
sorry






