Odd Noise - Steering/Suspension Related
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: South Florida
1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Odd Noise - Steering/Suspension Related
Hey guys,
The car has recently developed an odd "popping" noise front, passenger side. Here are symptoms/facts:
Ideas?
The car has recently developed an odd "popping" noise front, passenger side. Here are symptoms/facts:
- Heard during low-speed, turning, and major compression - e.g. running over a speed bump. I don't hear it going fast, but then again, I'm not steering while going fast either.
- More prevalent when I turn to the right or go over a speed bump
- In the last year, the following have been replaced: idler arm bushing, all lower control arm bushings, ball joints, springs, spring pads, shocks/struts.
- Did the classic shake-the-wheel ball joint test - seems fine
- Did the classic grab-and-twist-thet-tie-rod-end test - also seems fine (no movement whatsoever)
Ideas?
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Front sway bar bushes or steering ball joints or traverse steering link ?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: South Florida
1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Yup. I torqued them to spec because I just threw them in last week.
Ball joints are replaced. Maybe the sway bar bushings or traverse steering link. Doubt it's the bushings because the sound is nothing like bad bushings.
Maybe the CV joint but I have no clue. Think I'll cave and take it to the shop.
Maybe the CV joint but I have no clue. Think I'll cave and take it to the shop.
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From: Boston, MA
1999 MB C43 AMG
I replaced my wheel bearings not long ago but I'd be surprized if it was a bearing. He would hear the noise a higher speed even without turning hard. My "bad" wheel bearing was way more noisy at higher speed and barely noticeable below 30mph. 
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Is that about the time the noise showed up? not saying you did anything wrong but just trying to narrow down the turn on point of your problem. And the suspension has to be compressing? If you turn the wheel lock to lock there is no pop?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 498
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From: South Florida
1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Full lock is actually when it's worse (full lock right).
Nah, definitely not. I've had bad bearings before in my w201 and I know that sound all too well.
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C63 AMG P30 *EuroCharged*| Porsche Cayenne | Buell XB9SX
you know what? i actually had the same problem with mine (if i am understanding your issue correctly). had the noise for years and tens of thousands of miles. no one was ever able to diagnose it. never had any issues as a result, though, fwiw.
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
Hmm it's a shot in the dark (as it always is over the internet) but with out seeing it/hearing it I suspect it's one of the ball joints. but that's a total guess, personal opinion best thing to do would be to compress the spring split the upper joint and tie rod end. Pull the caliper so you can sneak the spring out. Then re attach the upper ball joint and manipulate the suspension by hand. A lot of dirty work but you could probably source the problem.
But before doing all that.. check to make sure the upper control arm is tight (behind air box and under coolant overflow) also you might turn to right lock in the drive way and use a floor jack to raise and quickly lower your car to narrow down the source of the noise closer.
But before doing all that.. check to make sure the upper control arm is tight (behind air box and under coolant overflow) also you might turn to right lock in the drive way and use a floor jack to raise and quickly lower your car to narrow down the source of the noise closer.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: South Florida
1998 C43, 2017 Honda Accord Sport
Doesn't make a car nut like me look good. 
Hmm it's a shot in the dark (as it always is over the internet) but with out seeing it/hearing it I suspect it's one of the ball joints. but that's a total guess, personal opinion best thing to do would be to compress the spring split the upper joint and tie rod end. Pull the caliper so you can sneak the spring out. Then re attach the upper ball joint and manipulate the suspension by hand. A lot of dirty work but you could probably source the problem.
But before doing all that.. check to make sure the upper control arm is tight (behind air box and under coolant overflow) also you might turn to right lock in the drive way and use a floor jack to raise and quickly lower your car to narrow down the source of the noise closer.
But before doing all that.. check to make sure the upper control arm is tight (behind air box and under coolant overflow) also you might turn to right lock in the drive way and use a floor jack to raise and quickly lower your car to narrow down the source of the noise closer.
And yeah, a lot of dirty work to diagnose. Might as well have the dealer do it; at least I get a free car wash out of it.
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From: Perth, Australia
190e & c36
I know you said you did your LCA bushings, but I'm pretty sure that's what it is....
If they weren't installed right (tightened while up on jacks, where its easier) they'll have flogged out in no time
If they weren't installed right (tightened while up on jacks, where its easier) they'll have flogged out in no time
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From: Oregon
'97 c36
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