car died on highway..
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From: Bay Area, CA
98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
You can generally hear a fuel pump prime right before you start the car. Grab a friend, get as close to the fuel pump as you can get, and have the friend turn the key to on (but don't start) and listen for the pump to prime. If it primes, you at least know the relay is working. You can also test the relay out of the car with a multi-meter and some jumper wires.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Ill look for the sound. Not sure how to check the current.
I already have the spare pump taken off and ready to gonon the car. It would be nice if I didnt have to replace it tho
I already have the spare pump taken off and ready to gonon the car. It would be nice if I didnt have to replace it tho
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,101
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From: Bay Area, CA
98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
Process for testing for fuel pressure should be pretty similar to this video. You can get a loaner kit from AutoZone for the gauge.
Also, you don't need to start the car like he does in the video. Just need to turn it to run and the pump should prime the system to about 40 psi or so.
Also, you don't need to start the car like he does in the video. Just need to turn it to run and the pump should prime the system to about 40 psi or so.
Last edited by ECTurboGSX; Dec 17, 2016 at 09:20 PM.
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
You can use "Multimeter" to check the current in fuel Relay, and unplug the fuel pump connector & test if there are Electricity in connector pins,,
or at a simple way; you can use bulb with wires to see if there are Electricity when you put the key in position 2..
"ZAYED"
or at a simple way; you can use bulb with wires to see if there are Electricity when you put the key in position 2..
"ZAYED"
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Process for testing for fuel pressure should be pretty similar to this video. You can get a loaner kit from AutoZone for the gauge.
Also, you don't need to start the car like he does in the video. Just need to turn it to run and the pump should prime the system to about 40 psi or so.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lBowLTZ2KE
Also, you don't need to start the car like he does in the video. Just need to turn it to run and the pump should prime the system to about 40 psi or so.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lBowLTZ2KE
Thanks man. Ill see if I can rent the tool from a local store and do it that way.
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Did you diagnose the car after fuel pump replaced..?,
try to pull out the air box & check all air/ breather hoses, if everything's OK, then
"MAF/CPS" are the remaining things to watch out..!
"ZAYED"
try to pull out the air box & check all air/ breather hoses, if everything's OK, then
"MAF/CPS" are the remaining things to watch out..!
"ZAYED"
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From: New Jersey
1999 AMG C43
Shot in the dark here but maybe battery/alternator? Did you pick up a multimeter to test voltage? Battery might not have enough juice. They are pretty cheap and a great tool.
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Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Bay Area
84 E24 M635CSi / 95 W202 C36
To fix it, you need to remove the alternator to access the back of it, remove the black plastic cover and replace the voltage regulator being careful not to damage it during installation. There are two indented grooves in the shaft of the alternator for the brushes to align and make contact.
Hopefully this will help get you on the road again.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Thanks for input.
any other symptoms that I can look for in order to establish if its that?
I did notice the dashboard sort of flickering while the car is attempting to start. Maybe I was just seeing things
any other symptoms that I can look for in order to establish if its that?
I did notice the dashboard sort of flickering while the car is attempting to start. Maybe I was just seeing things
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 9
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From: Bay Area
84 E24 M635CSi / 95 W202 C36
The way u describe it leads to the worn out brushes, intermittent contact could cause the dash to flicker although no CEL. You have been hunting for the cause of a no start with other components that probably were Ok but the ECU is not getting enough power for all the systems to initialize a normal start-up.
From the 70's thru 2000's this is a common failure point. This is a $30 dollar part, at worst you eliminated another point of failure and move on to more expensive parts.
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
So just took my alternator off and this is what I have.
There are shreds from the old belt in there from when it dnapped one me way back.
Im not sure what the condition of this part is....is it still good?
Im getting a spare tommorow and ill see how it goes.
There are shreds from the old belt in there from when it dnapped one me way back.
Im not sure what the condition of this part is....is it still good?
Im getting a spare tommorow and ill see how it goes.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
84 E24 M635CSi / 95 W202 C36
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
Looks like half age of this Regulator..!,,
if you gonna replace the alternator assembly, recommend to go with (180A) from 55K's, it's more reliable with better Regulator..
"ZAYED"
if you gonna replace the alternator assembly, recommend to go with (180A) from 55K's, it's more reliable with better Regulator..
"ZAYED"
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05 c55 silver, 98 Imperial Red C43
Down to the last 1/3 is usually when it starts to fail, the springs behind it are weak, loosing contact with continuous vibration. U should have 2/3 more than that with the new voltage regulator.
https://youtu.be/uQP8gu_HVd0?t=2m18s
https://youtu.be/uQP8gu_HVd0?t=2m18s
