ECTurboGSX

You can generally hear a fuel pump prime right before you start the car. Grab a friend, get as close to the fuel pump as you can get, and have the friend turn the key to on (but don't start) and listen for the pump to prime. If it primes, you at least know the relay is working. You can also test the relay out of the car with a multi-meter and some jumper wires.

cm60k

Is the car starting properly before replace C280 Relay..?,,

and is there a little Engine shacking with or without acceleration..??

"ZAYED"

PJmak

The car doesnt start with either of the two relays. Giving it gas while cranking doesnt do a thing

cm60k

Is there an Electric current to the fuel pump..?,,

do you hear whistle sound when you open the key to position 2..??

"ZAYED"

PJmak

Ill look for the sound. Not sure how to check the current.

I already have the spare pump taken off and ready to gonon the car. It would be nice if I didnt have to replace it tho

ECTurboGSX

Process for testing for fuel pressure should be pretty similar to this video. You can get a loaner kit from AutoZone for the gauge.

Also, you don't need to start the car like he does in the video. Just need to turn it to run and the pump should prime the system to about 40 psi or so.

cm60k

You can use "Multimeter" to check the current in fuel Relay, and unplug the fuel pump connector & test if there are Electricity in connector pins,,

or at a simple way; you can use bulb with wires to see if there are Electricity when you put the key in position 2..

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PJmak

Thanks man. Ill see if I can rent the tool from a local store and do it that way.

PJmak

Replaced the fuel pump but no go.

What else can cause multiple missfires while driving and make the engine die down?

cm60k

Did you diagnose the car after fuel pump replaced..?,

try to pull out the air box & check all air/ breather hoses, if everything's OK, then

"MAF/CPS" are the remaining things to watch out..!

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PJmak

Ill do that today thanks man. I peeked at the front breather hoses but not the back ones

mickey13

Shot in the dark here but maybe battery/alternator? Did you pick up a multimeter to test voltage? Battery might not have enough juice. They are pretty cheap and a great tool.

PJmak

Battery should be fine.

Keep in mind the car died while driving

My brother has a multimeter so ill test a few things today.

zynko

I've seen this happen before and the likely culprit is the voltage regulator, if the brushes are worn out, the alternator will not send the right voltage to the ECU causing all sorts of malfunctions. Main problem is the engine dies while driving and won't start again.




To fix it, you need to remove the alternator to access the back of it, remove the black plastic cover and replace the voltage regulator being careful not to damage it during installation. There are two indented grooves in the shaft of the alternator for the brushes to align and make contact.

Hopefully this will help get you on the road again.

PJmak

Thanks for input.

any other symptoms that I can look for in order to establish if its that?

​​​​​​​I did notice the dashboard sort of flickering while the car is attempting to start. Maybe I was just seeing things

zynko

Low battery, flickering dash warning lights, sudden shut off while driving...

The way u describe it leads to the worn out brushes, intermittent contact could cause the dash to flicker although no CEL. You have been hunting for the cause of a no start with other components that probably were Ok but the ECU is not getting enough power for all the systems to initialize a normal start-up.


From the 70's thru 2000's this is a common failure point. This is a $30 dollar part, at worst you eliminated another point of failure and move on to more expensive parts.

PJmak

So just took my alternator off and this is what I have.

There are shreds from the old belt in there from when it dnapped one me way back.

Im not sure what the condition of this part is....is it still good?

Im getting a spare tommorow and ill see how it goes.

PJmak

One more. It was making contact with the middle copper part and the alternator was spins freely.

I think ill change the whole thing

zynko

Down to the last 1/3 is usually when it starts to fail, the springs behind it are weak, loosing contact with continuous vibration. U should have 2/3 more than that with the new voltage regulator.

cm60k

Looks like half age of this Regulator..!,,

if you gonna replace the alternator assembly, recommend to go with (180A) from 55K's, it's more reliable with better Regulator..

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PJmak

Got a spare one from my 99 c43 parts car. It has less than 70k so hopefully its still good. The car ran fine when it was in one piece this year

PJmak

Thanks. I like watching that guy....ill check out this vid

m00nsh0t

That alternator looks pretty knackered to me, and the symptoms you describe sound like some form of alternator related f*ckery.

PJmak

Yep hopefully.

Got the one off my parts car...looks almost new.

sick430

yeah that one looks great! hope this fixes your problem.