Sulaco

Got home from work and the tranny had suddenly popped a big leak. I was due for a flush so I guess now is the time.

But I don't know where the leak is coming from. It leaked at least 2 litres before it stopped. Before I could get it up in the air to trace the source, it stopped dripping. I snapped a pic of the area, though. Anyone know what I need to replace?

It's an MB-remanuf transmission the previous owner spent $8k installing, but that was around 75k miles ago. The fluid is the $40/l green stuff, apparently. Odd that the dealer would use something even more expensive than the MB-labeled stuff.

cm60k

Strange oil color..!, is it leaks from the converter seal area..??

prefer to check if there is any oil in the Expansion tank, and check the oil cooler & oil cooler port in Radiator..!!

"ZAYED"

Sulaco

no oil in the expansion tank, trans cooler is tight and dry. Oil smells like trans fluid for sure. What could be leaking back there?

cm60k

I see,

usually big leaks caused from:-

"tq. converter seal/oil pan seal/crack in the spacer connector body/2 hoses(that attach to the Radiator cooler port)"

"ZAYED"

vinceC

The photo is from the rear of the transmission. Perhaps the output shaft seal is leaking. I suggest cleaning the entire area thoroughly and then run the car, in gear, on jack stands. When you see a drip shut it down and then look for the source.

Sulaco

I see. I will crank it and let it warm up and lie underneath and wait for the leak. Clean it up with some brake cleaner before hand so I can see the fresh leak.

I am trying to order fluid, dipstick, filter, gasket right now but I don't know exactly which fluids are fine and I find so much conflicting info online: fuchs 3353, shell atf 134, and several febi/bilstein/mb fluids that all are different but say they are fine but then people arguing each one is wrong.

hopefully my car has drain plug on the torque converter...

cm60k

Good idea, clean it up, will make it more easier to figure out the leak area,,

prefer OEM fluid "236.10 or 236.14" only,

if it 98, tq. converter should have that drain plug, unless if it not been replaced before,

but if it 99, can't assure if it got drain plug, that's definitely depend to the gearbox spec. & serial #..!

;ZAYED;

Sulaco

it's a remanufactured trans from MB the previous owner had installed, so I have no idea what year the trans is! we shall see.

Zayed, vince mentioning rear shaft seal makes me think. the only difference between E55 and C43 trans is the material they used to make output shaft spline. maybe the E55 motor overstressed the weaker spline?

fredtga

Pic shows the shift park release link, which is a common place to have a leak. The rubber accordion inside cracks and develops a leak.
Common leak develops also due the transmission electrical plug o-ring failure.
Ofcourse front & back seals too can have leaks.

But none of the above would spring a "2 liter" leak in short period of time.
Check if any of the oil lines cracked or anything.
Check the sides of transmission to see any traces of wetness. If you overheated the transmission, transmission fluid can be pushed thru the top vent hole, and yes, that's a fast and big volume fluid leak.

Sulaco

it was dripping about 2 big drops per second. I'm not entirely sure how much is gone, but I imagine it's not more than 2L because the car never behaved strangely.

I got home, parked the car. I was home 30 minutes then left again. I did not go more than 5 miles, came home 2 hours later and noticed puddle in the garage. It was dark and looked like oil. I nearly had a panic attack but my oil light wasn't on. Immediately killed engine and checked oil level, oil level was good. Pull into garage and look under car, see the dripping coming from back side of trans pan.

I ordered 6qt fluid, dipstick, adapter plug, filter and pan gasket on Amazon, should be here Friday. I have not yet identified source of leak but I am terrified it's the rear shaft seal and I will be in big trouble.

PJmak

I got a trans stick and Im gonna measure the trans fluid in my car.

What should I be looking for as far as fluid levels?

Sulaco

Take car for a drive and get it up to 80C. park on flat and level surface. Insert dipstick into the tube. Fluid level should reach the 80C area on the stick, if it's the right stick.

PJmak

While the car is running or do I shut it off?

Sulaco

Running

eFifty5AMG

Mine went from a very small leak to a huge puddle in days. Here's what I purchased, no issues since. Not sure if your problem is similar.

Mercedes Transmission Connector - Genuine Mercedes 2035400253
Item# MER-2035400253 $14.21 USD 1 $14.21 USD

Mercedes Transmission Shift Cable Connector Seal - Genuine Mercedes 1402701365
Item# MER-1402701365 $22.99 USD 1 $22.99 USD

Mercedes Automatic Transmission Fluid Service Kit - Pentosin 722.6FCK1
Item# KIT-722.6FCK1 $78.99 USD 1

Sulaco

Ordered all that but the shift cable connector seal. I have not yet determined where the leak is coming from.

eFifty5AMG

Luckily I was able to trace it back to the connector seal, can you see any drips from the connector?

Ausmbtech

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...rannieboot.jpg

If the leak developed that quickly then it is likely to be a leaking shift lock linkage (black and beige plastic part in your pic with 1 bolt). Cheap part, but a little annoying to replace. You'll need to disconnect the shift lock cable from the gearbox. drain the fluid and remove the oil pan and filter. From memory you don't need to remove the valve body but it's been a while since I've done one so don't hold me to that. Unbolt the linkage from the back of the transmission housing and disconnect the linkage inside the transmission. Make sure the linkage is connected and you can take the transmission out of park properly before you put the pan back on. (Obviously don't start the engine!).

Not a difficult job but take your time with it.

DRBC43AMG

Ausmbtech to the rescue. I guess we can all say a big Thanks!

eFifty5AMG

Lol. Like I said...
Parking lock interlock linkage aka shift cable connector seal. Pages 11-13 should help with the install. Part #1402701365.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/..._ATSG_2004.pdf

Sulaco

That sounds way too good to be true. God I hope you fellas are right!

fredtga

I just did that cable connector seal a week ago on a 722.6.
You don't need to remove the valve body.
What's annoying is the clearance... i usually support the transmission from its bell-housing area and remove the transmission cross-member and mount, to have more room.

cm60k

^^+1^^..

;ZAYED;

Sulaco

I think you don't even need to secure the bell housing if its still connected to the driveshaft. I've taken that cross member off before and the transmission doesn't even move.

vinceC

That is bad practice. The driveshaft support flexes and the u-joint is immediately aft of the support. The driveshaft does not support the transmission in anyway. The resistance to the rear of the trans dropping is coming from the radiator hoses.