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I need to replace these bushings, there's only one bolt each that hold a metal cup that cover the bushing.
when removed the bushing seems to go right through to the other side to the diff.
Anyone have or read a how to on these bushings?
I also need to replace the engine oil gasket because of a small oil leak. Can find this gasket anywhere. Anyone have a part number and good place to buy?
You need a bushing press tool kinda like the one for rear control arm bushings.
Theres a third bushing on the top thats easier to replace. You want to do that one as well
I need to do this on my car, I have a set of bushings thats new just laying around. Its a miserable job without the tool, dont even try.
Man that stinks! Looked like an easy job....
Are these bushings filled with fluid? And do you get a CLUNK sound from them when you hit the gas quickly, like jerkin the car with the has pedal? Why do you need to change yours?
"I also need to replace the engine oil gasket because of a small oil leak. Can find this gasket anywhere. Anyone have a part number and good place to buy?"
Can you be more specific about which gasket you are referring to?
"I also need to replace the engine oil gasket because of a small oil leak. Can find this gasket anywhere. Anyone have a part number and good place to buy?"
Can you be more specific about which gasket you are referring to?
The oil pan gasket. Buy I was told by a Mercedes mechanic that it may not have a gasket but silicone. That's probably why I can't find anything acceptt for the trans pan gasket.
The mechanic is correct. The sealant must be applied in a specific pattern and bead size - see the attachment. I use only the Loctite 5970 sealant recommended by M-B - dealers sell it as P/N 003 989 98 20. Careful cleaning off the old sealant. Loctitie makes a product that makes the silicone melt - Loctite 7200 - but it isn't available in the US. Permatex made a similar product but it is no longer available in the US either. If neither is available be really carful scraping it off. I use the Loctitie 7063 cleaner - P/N 001 986 71 71 10 - before applying the sealant to the pan.
For applying the sealant the tubes sold at the dealer can be inserted into a hardware store caulking gun - funky but it works and makes it easier to control the bead size. Date the sealant. It is only good for about 1 year.
Pj and Vince, thanks for the information!
i like to ask vince what symptoms did you have that you changed the diff bushings? And pj why do you want to change them? Like to know and I'm sure those that will view the post will be curious too....
I am not changing them. I only responded to your question about the oil pan gasket. The only time I can remember changing those bushings was on my 1988 300TE. I had the dealer change them. It was many years ago (20+ years) and but if I recall they came up during a routine service at 150K+ miles.
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Originally Posted by speed43
Pj and Vince, thanks for the information!
i like to ask vince what symptoms did you have that you changed the diff bushings? And pj why do you want to change them? Like to know and I'm sure those that will view the post will be curious too....
George, I'm sorry I didn't get back to you with a reply to the WIS question, but finally after some computer tweaking I now can view the WIS instructions and diagrams. Unfortunately I haven't found the way to copy the images and create files. What is really weird is that the WIS manual runs on an emulated Windows 7 operating system, while my laptop runs on Window 10. Any geeks around on here?
Oh and yes as is typical MB procedure, you need a special extraction tool, but probably can make your own. I'm just wondering if you can do this extraction and reassembly with the diff in the rear subframe
I am not changing them. I only responded to your question about the oil pan gasket. The only time I can remember changing those bushings was on my 1988 300TE. I had the dealer change them. It was many years ago (20+ years) and but if I recall they came up during a routine service at 150K+ miles.
Sorry about that it was for brad_c43.
Reason I want to change them is because when I pry them with a lever they squeak badly. But I sprayed some grease to them and they no longer squeak. But, as I was prying them one leaked a black fluid. So now I just want to replace them.
George, I'm sorry I didn't get back to you with a reply to the WIS question, but finally after some computer tweaking I now can view the WIS instructions and diagrams. Unfortunately I haven't found the way to copy the images and create files. What is really weird is that the WIS manual runs on an emulated Windows 7 operating system, while my laptop runs on Window 10. Any geeks around on here?
Oh and yes as is typical MB procedure, you need a special extraction tool, but probably can make your own. I'm just wondering if you can do this extraction and reassembly with the diff in the rear subframe
That's ok I posted to get some more info from others. I'm Sure the thread will be helpful for others who look up these problems.
Pj and Vince, thanks for the information!
i like to ask vince what symptoms did you have that you changed the diff bushings? And pj why do you want to change them? Like to know and I'm sure those that will view the post will be curious too....
Sure thing! I dont really post on this forum too much but I should. Ever since I got the car in 2016 there has been banging intermittent between the gear shifts and clunking when shifting into drive. I honestly cant figure it out but I love trying to fight these problems. I changed the diff bushings only because I went to wavetrac diff and I felt it was good practice to do so. nothing has changed in the car to me after changing the bushings but they were completely shot when i pulled them out so i guess it was good i changed them. also, I graduated college but realized my field wasn't for me so im back in school to be a Mercedes tech!
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