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1987 190e 2.3-16 sold and missed, 1966 220s, 2016 GL550, 1999 C43, 2006 CLS 55
Originally Posted by ECTurboGSX
Yeah, I had similar issues and ended up buying a new key from the dealer. It wasn't cheap, but it fixed the issue. I did have a valet key, which helped confirm that the issue was with the key and not the car.
I bought a ESL simulator to see if that’s the issue. Spoke with the owner of Mercedes Swap Shop and he suggested that first.
1987 190e 2.3-16 sold and missed, 1966 220s, 2016 GL550, 1999 C43, 2006 CLS 55
Originally Posted by ECTurboGSX
Yeah, I had similar issues and ended up buying a new key from the dealer. It wasn't cheap, but it fixed the issue. I did have a valet key, which helped confirm that the issue was with the key and not the car.
I’m getting a quote for a key tomorrow. But Mercedes Swap Shop said he can clone EIS and make another key
Hey man I'm located up north of you , I myself am trying to get things together on a 55 swap aswell .
I could use some input on the process if you have done it before , and where you found your engine . I was looking for a while , "crap happened " now I'm back on my project .. slowly.
Also starting to look for a mechanic that can do it , that ... is not panning out very well.
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Originally Posted by Oddz83
Hey man I'm located up north of you , I myself am trying to get things together on a 55 swap aswell .
I could use some input on the process if you have done it before , and where you found your engine . I was looking for a while , "crap happened " now I'm back on my project .. slowly.
Also starting to look for a mechanic that can do it , that ... is not panning out very well.
I would start by reading this Sticky thread: C43 '55' swap thread - MBWorld.org Forums
That should give you probably most of the info you need.
Unfortunately this forum page is rather quiet, probably because a lot of the older owners have moved on to other vehicles
1987 190e 2.3-16 sold and missed, 1966 220s, 2016 GL550, 1999 C43, 2006 CLS 55
Originally Posted by Oddz83
Hey man I'm located up north of you , I myself am trying to get things together on a 55 swap aswell .
I could use some input on the process if you have done it before , and where you found your engine . I was looking for a while , "crap happened " now I'm back on my project .. slowly.
Also starting to look for a mechanic that can do it , that ... is not panning out very well.
Sorry, just seeing this now. I’ve done this twice now on two different cars. It’s not a hard job if your hands on and willing to do the work.
as far as engine, just keep an eye out. I believe I saw a few on Facebook marketplace priced reasonably low.
I would look through the thread that was suggested in the post above.
I would replace all the seals on the motor before putting it in the car. Anything that can be replaced which can be an issue, replace.
1987 190e 2.3-16 sold and missed, 1966 220s, 2016 GL550, 1999 C43, 2006 CLS 55
I see that what I wrote up didn’t pop up with my pictures of the wheel fitment after getting them back from being refinished. I’m really pleased with the wheel selection. I had a white C43 previously which my brother has now and I always wanted the 22 spoke SL55 wheels and with the black it looks amazing.
Besides the wheels, I changed out the outer rear control arm bushings with the laser tools tool that they sell. It really made the job easy.
When I swapped out the springs and shocks I had #2 pad in the front and #3 in the rear. I decided to go up to #3 in the front and #4 in the rear and I like the way that it looks now.
I did a 2 step paint correction on the car and revealed scratches all along the sides which I am unhappy about so now I’m considering full respray in Obsidian Black. The oem color is black, I just love the Obsidian black and the metallic in the paint. I’m not looking to sell this thing, so I want to have it the way I’d want.
I also had the drivers seat covers replaced with ones that I had found at pick n pull in Salina’s. Like most C43s the lumbar features don’t work because the plastic piping has broke in many places. That will be something I’ll address later or if I can find tuxedo seats that would be ultimate.
Another great news is that the original key that was ordered and went missing actually showed up and I just ended up buying the parts department lunch so essentially for the price of one key I now have 2 new keys. Plus the original one that is jumping codes but still locks/unlocks the car.
1987 190e 2.3-16 sold and missed, 1966 220s, 2016 GL550, 1999 C43, 2006 CLS 55
Update
So the car has been at the body shop now a month. They’ve sanded are working on it slowly, a bit at a time but it’s coming along.
the car was sanded, now primered and will be blocked and then paint and color sand.
I decided to have it resprayed in Obsidian black. I’m not planning to sell the car and it’s going from black to obsidian black.
I snapped a pic today as I stopped by to see progress.
I also bought all the clips for the side skirts including the small rubber molding at each end of the side skirt.
In the mean while, I also acquired a 1999 SL 500 that I got for a steal. I got suspension for it. Waiting for the wheels to come in to lower it, change the lower control arms because the ball joints have failed. The replacement control arms came with bushings and ball joint.
Last edited by mbdreamr; Apr 27, 2025 at 01:02 AM.
1987 190e 2.3-16 sold and missed, 1966 220s, 2016 GL550, 1999 C43, 2006 CLS 55
Originally Posted by Sulaco
where'd you get those side skirt clips? my passenger side is just swinging loose and I'm sure it looks hilarious as I drive down the freeway
Dealership has all the clips, they need to be ordered. The front end takes 3 (2) piece clips and on the back it’s one clip. You then have clips all along the top and bottom as well. Depends which ones you need. They are available.
Nice to see a c43 getting a heart transplant and a fresh crispy paint job , I’m going to try to get some work done this summer on mine but great to see someone setup and appreciate
these time machines c43 amg one of the best AMGs ever built
1987 190e 2.3-16 sold and missed, 1966 220s, 2016 GL550, 1999 C43, 2006 CLS 55
These cars are worth investing the money into them as they are so simplistic, but yet a blast to drive even in the stock 4.3 configuration.
The 5.4 swap is so easy on these cars and makes an impressive difference. They should’ve been 5.4 to
begin with.
@PJmak so far the process with the body shop has been good and the fact that he wants to do a good job is all I care about. It will be a few months process but I’m certain it’ll be worth it. Let me see how my car turns out and then I can report back out.
I did remove everything for them to make their job easy.
@Benzrider17 thanks my friend. I hope
this will motivate others with the C43 to give their cars the love they deserve. These truly are the best made AMG. Sure there are way faster AMGs out there that are newer. But these C43s are just something else.
I’ll sure be back to continue reporting on the progress of the car. I still have the rear subframe Bushings to address after paint. Inching closer.
Last edited by mbdreamr; Apr 29, 2025 at 12:21 AM.
Key is probably dead. I wouldnt jump to conclusions with the ignition switch. WHen my key died, it wouldnt start the car but it was lockingad unlocking things too.
FYI, many “dead” keys can be fixed. Especially 1999-2008 that have these symptoms. If still working to lick & unlock they can talk to EIS via RF. It is only the IR or EIS energizing coil left to cause failure like this.
Cheaper & easier to fix than buying a new one. Or get the old ones fixed after getting a new one. Always best to have at least 2.
There are two main scenarios that could cause your key to be unable to turn in the ignition. These are:
Your key fob battery is low or empty. This prevents the Electronic Ignition System (EIS) from functioning.
This is 100% incorrect. It is the exact opposite of reality. The keys are powered by an inductive coil. The EIS powers the key when inserted. You can remove the batteries and it will work fine.
The batteries power door unlocking and the convenience feature to put windows down. The system is specifically designed such that car can work when key batteries dead. I dislike this piece of misinformation because it gets people popping keys open and swapping battery carrier in and out. If PCB comes out they often get parts knocked off on reinsertion.
Batteries aren’t used during start authorization, replacing them will have no effect beyond possibly further damaging the key.
To fix the original key, carefully slide the green PCB out and have a look. Do this over a clean, empty surface. Most common failure points are the EIS power coil or the IR emitter getting knocked loose by repeated drops on a hard floor.
Sometimes they will fall out when you open the key, making it obvious what broke off. Frequently can be soldered back on, or new component if that one broke due to end popping off.
Another common failure point is cracked buttons. Wash your hands, pick up the keys, and water gets wicked in. Enough water gets in and electricity migrates metal particles around, eventually taking a short cut and killing the key. Can frequently be cleaned properly and work again.
This is 100% incorrect. It is the exact opposite of reality. The keys are powered by an inductive coil. The EIS powers the key when inserted. You can remove the batteries and it will work fine.
The batteries power door unlocking and the convenience feature to put windows down. The system is specifically designed such that car can work when key batteries dead. I dislike this piece of misinformation because it gets people popping keys open and swapping battery carrier in and out. If PCB comes out they often get parts knocked off on reinsertion.
Batteries aren’t used during start authorization, replacing them will have no effect beyond possibly further damaging the key.
To fix the original key, carefully slide the green PCB out and have a look. Do this over a clean, empty surface. Most common failure points are the EIS power coil or the IR emitter getting knocked loose by repeated drops on a hard floor.
Sometimes they will fall out when you open the key, making it obvious what broke off. Frequently can be soldered back on, or new component if that one broke due to end popping off.
Another common failure point is cracked buttons. Wash your hands, pick up the keys, and water gets wicked in. Enough water gets in and electricity migrates metal particles around, eventually taking a short cut and killing the key. Can frequently be cleaned properly and work again.
Got nothing to lose by taking a look.
Can you show what the parts highlighted in red above look like?
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