DIY: C43 Oil Change Step by Step Tutorial
#51
I’ve done my own oil changes annually since I got it back in 2016. This was the first year using the Mityvac. Best $100 spent!
I got almost 7, stone cold motor.
I love that you can put the rubber stopper at the end of the dipstick tube, and it sucks like a straw! Kudos to the forum for sharing that little tip!
I got almost 7, stone cold motor.
I love that you can put the rubber stopper at the end of the dipstick tube, and it sucks like a straw! Kudos to the forum for sharing that little tip!
#52
I was wondering if anyone would still respond to this.
I can't get the Mityvac's here in Canada but saw lots of positive videos about them. I did use a more solid pump this time around and was surprised at ~7L extraction too.
The first time I did this was when I tried to extract it in cool weather (10C), totally clueless. The key is definitely warm up the oil and plug the dip stick hole with the rubber of the pump if possible.
I can't get the Mityvac's here in Canada but saw lots of positive videos about them. I did use a more solid pump this time around and was surprised at ~7L extraction too.
The first time I did this was when I tried to extract it in cool weather (10C), totally clueless. The key is definitely warm up the oil and plug the dip stick hole with the rubber of the pump if possible.
#53
Senior Member
Reviving this old thread for a tangent topic.
Is there any reason to use a magnetic oil drain plug in this modern engine? I believe the heads and block are aluminum, but is there any iron in cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings, valve train, cam shafts, crank shaft, etc?
Is there any reason to use a magnetic oil drain plug in this modern engine? I believe the heads and block are aluminum, but is there any iron in cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings, valve train, cam shafts, crank shaft, etc?
#54
Senior Member
In addition to my above question, I also have the following questions.
- In this picture from above, does the seal ring (white arrow) getting oiled actually stretch around and fit into the large seal slot (red arrow)? That seems like a big stretch.
- Does a replacement small seal (yellow arrow) come with the filter kit?
- If you use the drain plug, is its washer a reusable one or is it a crush washer that needs replaced each oil change?
- In this picture from above, does the seal ring (white arrow) getting oiled actually stretch around and fit into the large seal slot (red arrow)? That seems like a big stretch.
- Does a replacement small seal (yellow arrow) come with the filter kit?
- If you use the drain plug, is its washer a reusable one or is it a crush washer that needs replaced each oil change?
#55
Senior Member
I just called my dealership and they said the crush washer part number is 007 603 014 106. I'm used to working on older cars, this longer part number confused me at first! I also see a longer part number on the filter canister remover socket shown above, so I guess it's just normal now.
#56
Senior Member
Dammit, I'm answering a lot of my own questions today. I should have spent more time looking at the provided pics and at pics of parts for sale.
- The new filters clearly come with the plastic tower, including the small rubber seal at the tip.
- The filter canister (not the plastic on the filter) clearly has the groove for the large rubber seal. And, the pic I chose to focus on must have an optical illusion, as the seal looks right in the rest of the pics.
- The new filters clearly come with the plastic tower, including the small rubber seal at the tip.
- The filter canister (not the plastic on the filter) clearly has the groove for the large rubber seal. And, the pic I chose to focus on must have an optical illusion, as the seal looks right in the rest of the pics.
#57
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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Reviving this old thread for a tangent topic.
Is there any reason to use a magnetic oil drain plug in this modern engine? I believe the heads and block are aluminum, but is there any iron in cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings, valve train, cam shafts, crank shaft, etc?
Is there any reason to use a magnetic oil drain plug in this modern engine? I believe the heads and block are aluminum, but is there any iron in cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings, valve train, cam shafts, crank shaft, etc?
In addition to my above question, I also have the following questions.
- In this picture from above, does the seal ring (white arrow) getting oiled actually stretch around and fit into the large seal slot (red arrow)? That seems like a big stretch.
- Does a replacement small seal (yellow arrow) come with the filter kit?
- If you use the drain plug, is its washer a reusable one or is it a crush washer that needs replaced each oil change?
- In this picture from above, does the seal ring (white arrow) getting oiled actually stretch around and fit into the large seal slot (red arrow)? That seems like a big stretch.
- Does a replacement small seal (yellow arrow) come with the filter kit?
- If you use the drain plug, is its washer a reusable one or is it a crush washer that needs replaced each oil change?
I just called my dealership and they said the crush washer part number is 007 603 014 106. I'm used to working on older cars, this longer part number confused me at first! I also see a longer part number on the filter canister remover socket shown above, so I guess it's just normal now.
Dammit, I'm answering a lot of my own questions today. I should have spent more time looking at the provided pics and at pics of parts for sale.
- The new filters clearly come with the plastic tower, including the small rubber seal at the tip.
- The filter canister (not the plastic on the filter) clearly has the groove for the large rubber seal. And, the pic I chose to focus on must have an optical illusion, as the seal looks right in the rest of the pics.
- The new filters clearly come with the plastic tower, including the small rubber seal at the tip.
- The filter canister (not the plastic on the filter) clearly has the groove for the large rubber seal. And, the pic I chose to focus on must have an optical illusion, as the seal looks right in the rest of the pics.
#59
MBWorld Fanatic!
Seal for red arrow location should come with the new filter.
As far as the magnetic plug, other than being out a few extra bucks, what could possibly be the harm in having the extra piece of mind? Schrodinger's Magnetic Drain Plug! Ideally it should never grab anything...but if it needed to, how else would you know?
As far as the magnetic plug, other than being out a few extra bucks, what could possibly be the harm in having the extra piece of mind? Schrodinger's Magnetic Drain Plug! Ideally it should never grab anything...but if it needed to, how else would you know?
#60
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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
#62
Senior Member
Hey everyone. I finally did my first oil change. I'm doing my own following track days, just for added engine lifetime health. Still using dealer for scheduled maintenance. I used the topside MightyVac system. Yes, you should arrange the hose & plugs so that you're just putting the rubber stopper at the top of the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube runs to the bottom of the pan, so you don't have to put a hose inside the dipstick tube. After getting about 7L out, I went ahead and put the car on ramps and drained through the drain plug into an old water bottle. I got about 7 oz of oil out! So, this vac method using only the dispstick tube does not get it all out, but since I'll be doing a couple oil changes (track weekends) between scheduled changes, I think I'll keep doing the topside change.
I have not purchased a magnetic drain plug yet.
I have not purchased a magnetic drain plug yet.
#63
Senior Member
You would have to send off some oil for lab analysis. I've done that before on classic cars.
#64
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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Got the magnetic drain plug yet? Anything to report?
#65
Senior Member
I did buy one the other day and will be doing another oil change soon (had a great track day at Mid-Ohio!). But it will probably be next year when I do another oil change and look at it. Also, I'm wondering what the most effective way is to keep the dealership from throwing away my special drain plug when they change my oil. Hummmm.....
#66
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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
I did buy one the other day and will be doing another oil change soon (had a great track day at Mid-Ohio!). But it will probably be next year when I do another oil change and look at it. Also, I'm wondering what the most effective way is to keep the dealership from throwing away my special drain plug when they change my oil. Hummmm.....
#67
Senior Member
I'm continuing to use the dealership for scheduled service, I'm just doing additional things that relate to track use.
#68
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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
#69
DIYers Keeping your receipts?
Curious if you DIY oil changers are keeping your receipts. If you are not, are you worried about resale value since a potential buyer may not believe you about the maintenance you have performed? I didn't go through with a purchase since the guy claimed he did his own oil changes, plus some other stuff, but didn't have the receipts to prove it.
#70
MBWorld Fanatic!
Curious if you DIY oil changers are keeping your receipts. If you are not, are you worried about resale value since a potential buyer may not believe you about the maintenance you have performed? I didn't go through with a purchase since the guy claimed he did his own oil changes, plus some other stuff, but didn't have the receipts to prove it.
#71
Senior Member
If you're asking me personally, I am not keeping receipts of my work because as stated above I still have the dealership do scheduled maintenance.
#73
Junior Member
I'm in the middle of my change, when I removed the drain plug there was no washer, no leaks either. I'll see if I have a suitable copper washer but if not I'll install without it. Somebody either ran over road debris or ripped the panel to access the drain plug without removing the panel as it has a large chunk removed, jagged edges but I can see a ham-fisted mechanic using pliers to snip off chunks until enough was removed. I'll be ordering a new panel so if anyone has a good source other than the dealer please let me know.
#75
Junior Member
I've never really considered using the Mity-Vac oil change suction unit, I've always drained my oil from the bottom of the pan. Recently all my Porsches and BMW's don't have dip sticks anyway(save for the Cayenne which didn't come with one but has a tube which I got a VW dipstick for). I guess I'm old school and like to get every bit of oil and the accompanying sludge that sits on the bottom out of the engine. Plus, I have a MaxJax midrise lift which I have to justify! To each his own, and there's nothing inherently wrong with sucking it out from the top. I've done it this way since I was in my early teens and can't stop now. I'm 75, btw.