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Greetings new forum. just came across from the w205 forum, as I traded up to the c43. thought I'd post my dyno run from mchip-dkr 'stage 1' remap on a brand new stock c43 for future viewing by all as they were quite hard to find. she just managed to get over 400 ps at the wheels and 543nm of torque. a bit short of their advertised claims, but then so was the stock figures on the test. They mentioned that he believes that will increase as the ecu learns and adapts to the car and the remap (being a car with 8 miles on the clock), I don't know how true that is though. Anyway, more than adequate for now I'm sure you owners know what I mean.
Greetings new forum. just came across from the w205 forum, as I traded up to the c43. thought I'd post my dyno run from mchip-dkr 'stage 1' remap on a brand new stock c43 for future viewing by all as they were quite hard to find. she just managed to get over 400 ps at the wheels and 543nm of torque. a bit short of their advertised claims, but then so was the stock figures on the test. They mentioned that he believes that will increase as the ecu learns and adapts to the car and the remap (being a car with 8 miles on the clock), I don't know how true that is though. Anyway, more than adequate for now I'm sure you owners know what I mean.
Hello and welcome. I have never heard of Mchip-DKR. What made you decide to go for that instead of something more popular? Also is this a piggyback? The numbers look like it.
Hello and welcome. I have never heard of Mchip-DKR. What made you decide to go for that instead of something more popular? Also is this a piggyback? The numbers look like it.
Thx and ouch. no its not a piggyback, I live in a country where there isn't much to choose from, especially if you want a reliable time tested remap that mchip-dkr.com offer from Germany. on the flip side, the 43 is rarer than steak tartare here.
you've made me a little sad now. I did query those numbers, hence the post, you think they're that bad? maybe they didn't dyno very well or the 40 degrees in the workshop had an effect on things?
Thx and ouch. no its not a piggyback, I live in a country where there isn't much to choose from, especially if you want a reliable time tested remap that mchip-dkr.com offer from Germany. on the flip side, the 43 is rarer than steak tartare here.
you've made me a little sad now. I did query those numbers, hence the post, you think they're that bad? maybe they didn't dyno very well or the 40 degrees in the workshop had an effect on things?
It looks like you gained 40whp. Which would be ok if it was a piggyback. A full remap should have net you closer to 100whp tbh.
Its too inconsistant to gauge a tune based on peak numbers, so most of us here just look at the gained whp. 40whp is a really low for a full remap.
What about GAD? Didnt they have a 500hp C400? You can also try Racechip. They are Germany based I believe. And also offer a money back satisfaction guarantee.
In anycase, atleast you gained something. Theres some very few users on this forum who seemed to gain literally nothing from their tune (mainly faulty piggyback units)
Edit: Actually that dyno looks like its adjusted for crank horsepower? Unless that dyno was very very optimistic and you Dyno'd over 350whp stock, which would be insane. 40whp or 40 crank hp. Thats low
Last edited by waisoserious; 03-20-2018 at 05:29 AM.
It looks like you gained 40whp. Which would be ok if it was a piggyback. A full remap should have net you closer to 100whp tbh.
Its too inconsistant to gauge a tune based on peak numbers, so most of us here just look at the gained whp. 40whp is a really low for a full remap.
What about GAD? Didnt they have a 500hp C400? You can also try Racechip. They are Germany based I believe. And also offer a money back satisfaction guarantee.
In anycase, atleast you gained something. Theres some very few users on this forum who seemed to gain literally nothing from their tune (mainly faulty piggyback units)
Edit: Actually that dyno looks like its adjusted for crank horsepower? Unless that dyno was very very optimistic and you Dyno'd over 350whp stock, which would be insane. 40whp or 40 crank hp. Thats low
Yes for sure its converted to crank hp. I didn't want a piggyback, never really trusted them, they all feel a bit generic to me, with wild claims and flashy websites, i've always gone down the ECU flash route on various cars. Just my view though, and maybe an outdated one. Not sure it would ever get through customs either to be honest. I'll ask them why the dyno was on the low side, i'm sure mchip-dkr don't intentionally create a remap that is conservative in its figures, marketing wouldn't allow them to, as some idiot would post the dyno results on MBWorld... Maybe its to up sell 'stage 2'.
Yes for sure its converted to crank hp. I didn't want a piggyback, never really trusted them, they all feel a bit generic to me, with wild claims and flashy websites, i've always gone down the ECU flash route on various cars. Just my view though, and maybe an outdated one. Not sure it would ever get through customs either to be honest. I'll ask them why the dyno was on the low side, i'm sure mchip-dkr don't intentionally create a remap that is conservative in its figures, marketing wouldn't allow them to, as some idiot would post the dyno results on MBWorld... Maybe its to up sell 'stage 2'.
Regarding piggybacks, most of the positive feedback from tunes on this forum has actually been from piggybacks. Racechip and BMS mainly with a few Dinans thrown in. Several members using piggybacks on this site have 1/4 mile tracked or measured their 0-60 with a gps device. Most are in the range of 3.7-3.8 0-60. 1/4 mile times with a piggyback have been in the low 12's with 1 being almost 12 flat.
A guy with an EC tune (v3) got an insane 0-60 3.67secs and 1/4 11.8sec @ 117mph. And he allegedly did this with 2 people in his car. The latest AMR and EC tunes dyno around 420-430awhp. Thats about a 100hp gain over stock, so your 40 is definitely on the low side, even for a piggyback I think.
You dont HAVE to go with a popular tuner. TBH I think the best choice is always to go with something that has local support. Maybe try a different tuning shop near your area instead. Or find a AMR/EC agent nearby.
I also use a BMS JB1 piggyback. My GLC43 Coupe weighs over 4300lbs and I still manged to achieve 4.6secs 0-60 without torque braking.
Regarding piggybacks, most of the positive feedback from tunes on this forum has actually been from piggybacks. Racechip and BMS mainly with a few Dinans thrown in. Several members using piggybacks on this site have 1/4 mile tracked or measured their 0-60 with a gps device. Most are in the range of 3.7-3.8 0-60. 1/4 mile times with a piggyback have been in the low 12's with 1 being almost 12 flat.
A guy with an EC tune (v3) got an insane 0-60 3.67secs and 1/4 11.8sec @ 117mph. And he allegedly did this with 2 people in his car. The latest AMR and EC tunes dyno around 420-430awhp. Thats about a 100hp gain over stock, so your 40 is definitely on the low side, even for a piggyback I think.
You dont HAVE to go with a popular tuner. TBH I think the best choice is always to go with something that has local support. Maybe try a different tuning shop near your area instead. Or find a AMR/EC agent nearby.
I also use a BMS JB1 piggyback. My GLC43 Coupe weighs over 4300lbs and I still manged to achieve 4.6secs 0-60 without torque braking.
I got a 3.63 on piggy back lol , my 1/4 wasn’t all that at 12.21 even tho that day on track had terrible conditions and only managed 4.03 ugh
Thanks. some food for thought here. didn't want to get into a debate on piggy v flash though, it does seems piggys have come a long way since they were looked down upon and seen as the poor mans tune or when it was the only option because of ecu security/access. seems some happy customers.
Thanks. some food for thought here. didn't want to get into a debate on piggy v flash though, it does seems piggys have come a long way since they were looked down upon and seen as the poor mans tune or when it was the only option because of ecu security/access. seems some happy customers.
Let me put it this way, if you are just looking for a boost over stock performance without any headaches, go with a piggy back. Piggys like Dinan or JB1 can do no wrong at the moment. Performaster DE is definitely another amazing option (also the only piggy back that gets rid of the Vmax limiter).
Lastly, if you want the best drag strip performance, then get a full ECU tune and you would be impressed. The only reliable ECU tunes in the market right now is from EC and OE. AMR's tune has yet to translate any of those numbers on a dragy or track and goes to limp mode on a regular basis.
If you are planning to track/lap the car, KEEP the car bone stock. Last year when I went to the track, I was hitting as high as 121C when chasing someone down, and my car was bone stock then. The cooling system of this car definitely needs an upgrade if you want to track the car with a tune.
This looks like an amazing tune. Would have been amazing if someone in the forum tried it.
Better than the crap AMR calls a tune anyway.
I've inquired on their website about pricing and install procedures. I go to Germany 4-6x year for work so I could potentially visit them in person depending on where I am
Quick follow-up - Performmaster is a no-go. They claim programming is specific to Euro-spec only cars and they won't even ship to US or let me purchase in person in country. Additionally, price is ludicrous! 2267€ + VAT or around $3,322 USD
Thanks. some food for thought here. didn't want to get into a debate on piggy v flash though, it does seems piggys have come a long way since they were looked down upon and seen as the poor mans tune or when it was the only option because of ecu security/access. seems some happy customers.
i think the improvement in piggybacks has more to do with current generation of cars being turbocharged rather than N/A or Supercharged. Both of which would yield much less hp gains with a simple tune.
Quick follow-up - Performmaster is a no-go. They claim programming is specific to Euro-spec only cars and they won't even ship to US or let me purchase in person in country. Additionally, price is ludicrous! 2267€ + VAT or around $3,322 USD
Damn. Yeah no those gains are not worth it. I can buy a brand new ECU and send it to EC for a tune for that money.
I see that you are in Thailand. The crappy 95 octane gas that we get here might affected the gain on your tune. I have a Mitsu EVO that was conservatively tuned with US 91 octane, and was shipped back to Thailand. With our local 95 RON fuel, the ecu consistently pulled the timing from knocks. The only way for me to get 0 knock with pump gas was to run with Torco octane booster. I also have a W204 C63AMG that was tuned by McChip-DKR. The power gain was slightly less than expected running 100% pump gas. However, when I tried adding the octane booster, the car gained around 40whp back and power increase was really noticeable at high rpm.
I see that you are in Thailand. The crappy 95 octane gas that we get here might affected the gain on your tune. I have a Mitsu EVO that was conservatively tuned with US 91 octane, and was shipped back to Thailand. With our local 95 RON fuel, the ecu consistently pulled the timing from knocks. The only way for me to get 0 knock with pump gas was to run with Torco octane booster. I also have a W204 C63AMG that was tuned by McChip-DKR. The power gain was slightly less than expected running 100% pump gas. However, when I tried adding the octane booster, the car gained around 40whp back and power increase was really noticeable at high rpm.
Interesting, I hadn't thought that fuel could be a factor. I read your thread on it, do you swear on an octane booster for your tuned 63 as making a noticeable difference? Might be well worth a try, not that I have any intention of re-testing again though, but it'd be nice to have it running as mchip-dkr intended though if fuel is a factor. What fuel do you use here? I used to be a V power guy for my TTS many moons back as that's what APR recommended and kit did seem more lively. Think its changed since then though. Autowerks didn't offer up any recommendation for the 43 after the remap. I haven't seen Torco booster anywhere here, easy to find? How was your tune with mchip-dkr, did you get near the advertised figures?
First I ran the v-power e10 with my C63 when the car was bone stock. Then I had it tuned about two and a half years back at Autowerks. The power increase was noticeable but the engine was pinging from knocks during high-load throttle. So I tried switching to Caltek 95 as recommended by the guys at Autowerks. The pinging was gone after that. I had the car dynoed and power gain over stock was minimal at first. I suspected it wasn’t due to the tune but the gas quality, since the car felt a bit flat up top. I’ve been running the Torco stuff with my Evo for years with good results, so I gave it a try with the Benz. It was a night and day after that. The car pulled hard all the way up to the redline. I had the car dynoed after that. When the car was stock it made 382whp and with a tune and pump gas it was only 390ish (also blamed a hot day for that since the stock run was at 10C cooler temp). Then I had another run after the Torco was added. It was also on a cool day and the car made around 430whp. So the gas is a good factor here especially since I think McChip DKR ecu was originally meant to be used with EU 98 octane at least for the old 63AMG tunes. You can buy those Torcos at a shop called Mactec race parts. I would recommend using a coffee filter before pouring the product into your gas tank since some of the cans might have residues at the bottom from sitting too long.
2017 AMG C43, AWE Touring, BMC Air Filters- 2015 BMW X3 3.5i (JB1 Equipped)
Originally Posted by munis
Let me put it this way, if you are just looking for a boost over stock performance without any headaches, go with a piggy back. Piggys like Dinan or JB1 can do no wrong at the moment. Performaster DE is definitely another amazing option (also the only piggy back that gets rid of the Vmax limiter).
Lastly, if you want the best drag strip performance, then get a full ECU tune and you would be impressed. The only reliable ECU tunes in the market right now is from EC and OE. AMR's tune has yet to translate any of those numbers on a dragy or track and goes to limp mode on a regular basis.
If you are planning to track/lap the car, KEEP the car bone stock. Last year when I went to the track, I was hitting as high as 121C when chasing someone down, and my car was bone stock then. The cooling system of this car definitely needs an upgrade if you want to track the car with a tune.
That is really hard to believe when it takes my car 20 minutes of routine driving for the oil to get up to temperature and at least 35 minutes of driving for the transmission to come up to temp. Even when I street thrash on my car for a couple of hours, the motor never really gets that warm. My car is not tuned but equipped with AWE Touring Exhaust, BMC filters and a healthy dose of Cerateque in the motor- runs to 60mph consistent 4.2's and it way to fast to run on main roads. I have also had the fuel Pump and transmission ECU updates. Car uses a lot more gas when thrashed after getting the Fuel Pump update.
AMR tune is coming soon, lol just kidding. I'm going to try the Eurocharged V.3 when it goes on sale.
I would think this car would be very good on a track with its cooling system- first time I've heard this, but I have never been on a track.
For the OP I will say that nothing beats a good quality tune, Piggies just up the turbo boost not the perfect solution but it works. There is a really neat piggy made in Germany but they will not send it to the USA. It connects directly to the ECU. I wonder how it performs??
That is really hard to believe when it takes my car 20 minutes of routine driving for the oil to get up to temperature and at least 35 minutes of driving for the transmission to come up to temp. Even when I street thrash on my car for a couple of hours, the motor never really gets that warm. My car is not tuned but equipped with AWE Touring Exhaust, BMC filters and a healthy dose of Cerateque in the motor- runs to 60mph consistent 4.2's and it way to fast to run on main roads. I have also had the fuel Pump and transmission ECU updates. Car uses a lot more gas when thrashed after getting the Fuel Pump update.
AMR tune is coming soon, lol just kidding. I'm going to try the Eurocharged V.3 when it goes on sale.
I would think this car would be very good on a track with its cooling system- first time I've heard this, but I have never been on a track.
For the OP I will say that nothing beats a good quality tune, Piggies just up the turbo boost not the perfect solution but it works. There is a really neat piggy made in Germany but they will not send it to the USA. It connects directly to the ECU. I wonder how it performs??
I see that you are in Thailand. The crappy 95 octane gas that we get here might affected the gain on your tune. I have a Mitsu EVO that was conservatively tuned with US 91 octane, and was shipped back to Thailand. With our local 95 RON fuel, the ecu consistently pulled the timing from knocks. The only way for me to get 0 knock with pump gas was to run with Torco octane booster. I also have a W204 C63AMG that was tuned by McChip-DKR. The power gain was slightly less than expected running 100% pump gas. However, when I tried adding the octane booster, the car gained around 40whp back and power increase was really noticeable at high rpm.
edit: nvm
Last edited by waisoserious; 03-22-2018 at 08:29 PM.
First I ran the v-power e10 with my C63 when the car was bone stock. Then I had it tuned about two and a half years back at Autowerks. The power increase was noticeable but the engine was pinging from knocks during high-load throttle. So I tried switching to Caltek 95 as recommended by the guys at Autowerks. The pinging was gone after that. I had the car dynoed and power gain over stock was minimal at first. I suspected it wasn’t due to the tune but the gas quality, since the car felt a bit flat up top. I’ve been running the Torco stuff with my Evo for years with good results, so I gave it a try with the Benz. It was a night and day after that. The car pulled hard all the way up to the redline. I had the car dynoed after that. When the car was stock it made 382whp and with a tune and pump gas it was only 390ish (also blamed a hot day for that since the stock run was at 10C cooler temp). Then I had another run after the Torco was added. It was also on a cool day and the car made around 430whp. So the gas is a good factor here especially since I think McChip DKR ecu was originally meant to be used with EU 98 octane at least for the old 63AMG tunes. You can buy those Torcos at a shop called Mactec race parts. I would recommend using a coffee filter before pouring the product into your gas tank since some of the cans might have residues at the bottom from sitting too long.
thx bud. great info there. did you mean blue or yellow Caltex 95? ethanol and ethanol free I believe.
03-19-2018, 11:35 PM
I'm sure you owners know what I mean.
