After installing the PE (performance exhaust) exhaust, there was a need to activate the valves.

Why?
When I changed the track to the Performance Exhaust U78, I understood what a V6 exhaust is. It's cool and powerful. The best sound that can be achieved on this motor. But in comfort, when accelerating at low speeds of 1300-2500 rpm, a harsh sound from the exhaust system is heard. In the OEM solution, as I wrote earlier in the article, this sound is extinguished by the controller (module), which is installed from the factory and is responsible for the % of valves opening at different RPM. I do not have it, respectively, the valves are always 100% open. In general, the sound is very cool. But there are 2 things to consider:
1) sometimes you want to go in complete silence with the speakers turned off
2) pipes will be installed soon and the sound will be 100% harder.
That is why I decided to start looking for solutions for my OEM retrofitted valves.

After talking with the guys who have already installed PE, I realized the following:
1. Some have tried to "reanimate" regular valves on PE exhaust. I tried to contact several tuning companies. No success. All because of this module (controller), which is responsible for % opening. First, it is very difficult to find & buy. Second, no one can set it up to control the valves.
2. Most cut out-original valves and insert Chinese ones - electronic or vacuum.


This is the module. Which connects to the valves and the "brains" of the car. It adjusts the % of opening at different RPMs.

The first option is not possible. I didn’t like the second option, because I didn’t really want to interfere with the original system and cut/brake it. I don't really trust welders. In addition, there is a big chance to make a mistake in choosing the Chinese valves. Some of them don't work properly and defiantly not for a long time.

When I bought the PE exhaust track, its former owner also bothered about this issue. Moreover, at one point in time he purchased electronic valves, but never installed them. I bought them from him for 70$ when I bought the PE from him.


This is what I bought from the previous owner of PE.

At first, I thought that I would go the same way as everyone else. So I tried to connect them through the cigarette lighter. As a result, 1 valve did not work. My fried from the local C43 community helped me with this issue. He took responsibility and re-pinned them in the right way. In the end, they worked! It turned out that the previous owner of the PE track had already tried to connect them to the existing system. But it didn't work.

I decided to choose the hardest way. Namely, to make the original valves work.
In Europe and America, there are companies that deal with valves activation. But they do it for a different purpose. In the US, people who have PE from the factory want the valves to be 100% open all the time! Very few people are retrofitting or installing a PE track instead of the stock ones. Therefore, it was quite difficult to obtain this result. But first, I started looking for these solutions and found 2 companies in Germany that are specialized in connecting to standard valves in order to control them.

1. schawe-shop.de - connection to valves using a module and remotes.

wires with valves module + remote control.

2. schawe-shop.de — connection to valves using a built-in button in the car console. For me, the coolest solution, which is close to the original.

wires + module + button built into the console. OEM solution.

3. asr-component.de - connection to the valves using remotes and a module. Another manufacturer.

ASR.

The prices of the German solution are quite expensive. If we take the option with a button in the console, then we get the amount for which I bought the whole PE track. I decided to take the option to connect via a remote control.

I contacted the guys from ASR. They gave me the contact of David, who is responsible for communication in English. Surprisingly, he was from Australia. I wrote that I had recently replaced the track with a U78 PE and that I needed to activate the stock valves. He asked me to send him the VIN number of the car and ... drumroll ... factory numbers, which are written on the flaps themselves. Moreover, in order to find them, you need not just lift the car onto a lift. You need to remove the back with mufflers and unscrew 3 screws. I was a little upset that I did not know about it right away, since I would have to remove the part of the exhaust track again. For clarity, I am attaching a few photos with explanations of where everything is locating.


Stock electronic valve from the PE exhaust. When closed, it covers the second pipe of the muffler. To open it, you need to unscrew 3 screws.


After removing the cover, this beauty opens. Here you need to be careful not to damage the spring. The valve number is on the left. Left and right differ only by one letter. As I understand, there are many types of these valves - so different numbers. You need to check it carefully before ordering a module that will be programmed specifically for this valve.


Plugs. Cables from the valves module are inserted here.

In general, after another removal of the exhaust track, the needed numbers were obtained and dozens of photographs were taken, which were sent to David from Australia. He contacted the guys from Germany and everything started. The guys from ASR said that they would make a module that would need to be connected to 12V and the valves. It will work from the remote control. This is what I needed. It will cost 265 euros, with delivery to Moscow. The option, of course, turned out to be not the cheapest, especially since I already had the valves, which would have been much cheaper to install. But here, a feeling of interest has already begun to play to activate the original OEM valves. Since before that, no one could do it on a PE retrofit in Russia. I paid the money and expected the ASR module to arrive soon.


The module has arrived. My joy knew no bounds. As much as the fear that nothing will work out or something will go wrong.

It's time to sign up for installation. I turned to the local garage called Rexhaust. I installed PE with them, everything was nicely done.


Opened the fuse box in the trunk. The car was lifted later on.


Here it is - this is the module that does the magic and allows you to control standard PE valves.


First thing, valves were connected to the pins.


The wiring was carefully laid and fixed with clamps.


Drilling a hole in the body is not necessary. It's already there from the factory. Threw the wires through it and led to the fuse box.


The hardest part was finding 12V that only provided power when the ignition was on. In order for the module that needed to be powered not to drain the battery. Basically, all the fuses in the trunk are powered even when the ignition is off.


The necessary fuse, to which 12V is suitable when the ignition is turned on, is located here.


+ was twisted in this way. Not the best option, but there were no pins that fit the original Mercedes fuses in the garage. They are cruciform. All in all, it could have been better. - to the body of the car.

So, the connection has come to an end. What remains is the most disturbing. Turn it on and check if this whole system works at all? The car was lowered so that I could see the valves. Ignition was turned on. I pressed the open button and the worst thing happened. Only 1 valve responded to the remote. I was then ready to curse everything and throw it all in the trash. But I decided not to despair and get the instruction that was sent by ASR. It was in German - I tried to google translate it... I saw that it is possible to program in what position the valves will be positioned when ignited and decided to try it. I held the open button for 10 seconds and WOW - both valves began to obey the command. I was very happy and tried to open / close several times in a row to make sure that everything was working properly.

Here is what the control of original valves from the exhaust pipe looks like:

RESULT
Now with the valves closed, the ride is almost silent in comfort. The weird sound at low speed (1300-2500 rpm) disappears when the valves are closed. Even without music, the exhaust system is almost inaudible in comfort mode. As soon as you open them and turn on SPORT +, the exhaust sound changes completely. Moreover, the exhaust track is now prepared for the installation of pipes. For which valves are 100% useful.

The video of operation of valves with remote control. At idle, this is not as noticeable as at speed when revving, but still (put headphones):

I hope this article will help all enthusiasts who decide to retrofit the PE track and activate original OEM valves.

P.S. I have already installed OEM console button & connected all together to look & work as it should be. New thread about it will come very soon.

 

Awsome stuff man! i was reading about the ASR module, its the most economical way to make the valves live and functioning. Now all you need is downpipes to make the PE scream even more. great write up

 

I have just finished retrofitting the problem exhaust on gm c43 everything went well but the valve both mufflers is 100% closed at all times. How do you guys have it open 100% because I don’t have any module or button. Also when I drive and go to high rpms a sound like a vacuum comes and I’m assuming it’s from the vale being 100% close. Any solution to opening valve 100% without a module

 

These: https://burgertuning.com/products/va...r-bypass-plugs

 

how do these work because my muffler don’t have the valve controller on them it’s been removed ( I attached a picture of the mufflers) and the valves are completely closed at all time so even buying the asr won’t work for my car because the spring/valve controller is not there.

 

Yikes, um, is there a way for you to just remove the valves altogether so keeping the valves open at all times?

 

I’m going back to the shop to see how I’m going to remove them. I was searching bro see if there is a quicker solution but it looks like there isn’t. I’ll update you with what happens I’m going back tomorrow.

 

Sorry I wasn't able to help but I do wish you success!

 

Thank you I appreciate it

 

I have the c63s performance exhaust retrofitted on my C450 AMG. I ripped a small part off of a coke can and then jb welded the peice to the muffler valves so they stay open at all times. I have them about 20% open.

 

I have the c63s performance exhaust retrofitted on my C450 AMG. I ripped a small part off of a coke can and then jb welded the peice to the muffler valves so they stay open at all times. I have them about 20% open.

 

You're most welcome, you could also consider the other forum member's method.

 

I’ll suggest this to the mechanic shop tomorrow

 

Wasn't too bad to do. Just have to get your hand on the valve and jbweld it by feel. I have had it this way for about 15,000 KM and the valves have not moved.

 

They should definitely be able to weld it open etc..

 

yeah I get you.
im wondering did you face an issue when fitting the c63 exhaust. For me I retrofitted a c43 exhaust and the mechanic shop told me it was too close to the body which might cause vibrations so they ended up cutting some parts of the pipes at the end to the make it straighter (I put pictures) idk why the exhaust didn’t properly fit in the bottom

 

Interesting.. from what I know the C43 Performance exhaust should be a direct bolt on without any modifications. The c63s exhaust was close to the fuel tank so they had to make sure it did not hit the fuel tank when they did mine but they did not bend any heat shields or anything so they made it work. No other modifications were done except using the stock sport exhausts pipes that connected to the cats and they welded those on to the c63s mid pipe and all was good.