Back when I had my w203 C230 Sport, I was told there are camber adjusting bolts for the front suspension. AKA "Crash bolts". These are normally used to make additional adjustments to the front suspension after an accident and things just don't align normally. In my case, I now have a 2017 C43 and I'd like a touch more negative camber for track days, and if these can provide 0.5 degrees more camber, maybe my front tires will last a few more track days by having a slightly more even contact patch. (The outside 1/3 takes a lot of wear.) Should this work? Is it easy to replace these bolts? Is an alignment required after replacing them?
Todays models even “performance AMG” reason for no adjustment is because. Cost cutting and ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines Front Camber and Caster along with rear Camber has been deleted !
Stopping assembly lines to adjust is no longer an option. Now Camber and Caster there is one fixed setting - to suit “showroom Height” conditions.
Often quoted reassuring “Full Front and Rear ‘4’ Wheel Alignment - is now only basic Toe - “directional” adjustment. New car industry’s best kept secret.
No adjustment for day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads with excess passenger side edge wear. Or excess edge wear both sides through extra passenger loads or altered height. Spirited driving and excess outer edge wear.
Onus is now back on owners to fund costly premature tire replacement !
Yes back in the days of the W203 you could fit crash bolts to the front. But they were inaccurate one offset position providing a minuscule 0.3 of one degree.
At K-MAC we have the experience of manufacturing Camber / Caster adjuster kits longer than anyone else.
They’re BOLT-ON kits to suit virtually all Mercedes Benz models - Designed so no special tools or need for time consuming control arm removal.
AND SERIOUS ADJUSTMENT - Front and Rear up to 2 extra degrees Positive or Negative - TO FIX IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME. Allowing to adjust tire contact angles - spread load more evenly. Excess edge load can also lead to higher impact, ruptured side walls and rim damage.
K-MAC unique patented design also allows easily accessible and precise single wrench adjustment. Ultimate - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
WHILE TRACK DAYS - With K-MAC can dial in extra Negative Camber (and track width) to significantly reduce understeer / gain traction in the pursuit of hitting those corner apexes every time and allowing to go deeper into the corners with improved traction and braking response.
ABOVE Camber & Caster kits also replace all 4 Front highest wearing bushings - The Caster bushes besides allowing adjustment also K-MAC are Mono ball / Self aligning. Replacing the OEM large diameter soft rubber bushings still allowing arms to travel through their required suspension arcs but significantly improving Brake and Steering response.
REAR UPRATED ‘6’ MULTI LINK ARM BUSHINGS - SEDAN, WAGON #502628K $480
Tauter response - Less Twitch, Flex, Wheel tramp / loss of traction - Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake
REAR UPRATED TOE ARMS - PREVENT FLEX TOE CHANGE WHEN CORNERING (Sedan & Wagon - not necessary for C63/S Coupe). #502326-3J $380 Fit in conjunction with above Camber and Toe kits.
*Also manufacture rear adjustable Upper Camber Arms - But more difficult to fit & adjust.
DHL Express Air Worldwide $40 one kit ($20 each extra)
Yes, I'm well aware of kmac. Everyone seems to use kmac for fixing camber on lowered suspension, done for looks. I've not heard from anyone using kmac on the race track. If bolts like these are a solution, I'll try them for the price.
Yes, I'm well aware of kmac. Everyone seems to use kmac for fixing camber on lowered suspension, done for looks. I've not heard from anyone using kmac on the race track. If bolts like these are a solution, I'll try them for the price.
Re - done for looks: As above “adjustability” is for resolving costly, premature passenger side excess edge wear or inner edge wear both sides through wheel squat, load carrying, altered height or now able to adjust, change settings to increase traction cornering ability.
Re - Using K-MAC on the race track: That is where we test / develop ! …Heavy V8’s full speed main straight then hitting corner race curbs, fully launching then slamming down broadside lap after lap.
Re - Bolts like these are a solution: Crash bolts provide a miniscule .3 of one degree. Instead K-MAC are “COMPLETE UPRATED BUSHINGS” - providing serious adjustment. Up to 2 degrees extra Positive or Negative. Plus precise easily accessible single wrench adjustment. Direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and Costs) Since 1964 !
Re - done for looks: Re - Bolts like these are a solution: Crash bolts provide a miniscule .3 of one degree.
Yes, miniscule adjustment, but for miniscule price and miniscule risk. So, if I can source these MB bolts, I will try using them as a first step. Then, if I want more adjustment and want to spend the money, I would try Kmac as a second step.
My service writer at the dealership said that for the w205 chassis, MB has gone away from accentric bolts to entire bushings to adjust camber on troublesome (damaged) cars. These MB bushings change camber by 0.5 degrees. The dealer removes the control arm on each side to R&R the bushings. They quoted $1,880 in labor alone! Plus parts Plus alignment Plus tax!!! I'm going after labor quotes from independent shops now, regardless of which bushings are used.
Yes, miniscule adjustment, but for miniscule price and miniscule risk. So, if I can source these MB bolts, I will try using them as a first step. Then, if I want more adjustment and want to spend the money, I would try Kmac as a second step.
Now certainly “not miniscule” !
$1,880 - for two only front Camber bushes and fitment. No wonder they are called “stealerships”.
Plus inaccurate - “one offset position” - providing only .5 of one degree !
NOW HAVING TO PAY FOR WHAT WAS ONCE EX-FACTORY / WHAT YOU WOULD EXPECT - Essential / ongoing Camber (and Caster) to adjust tire contact angles to cater for all situations - varying loads, road, curb knocks or performance driving.
Now through cost cutting onus has been put “BACK ON OWNERS” to fund costly, premature tire replacement - or outlaying this $1,800 amount to re establish Front Camber (only) not Caster and not Rear Camber !
Good example of why in 1964 we saw the need - and took on the role of funding expensive R&D and resolving OEM suspension shortcomings. Plus “realism” when it comes to pricing / cost savings !
K-MAC kits providing not 0.5 but up to extra 2 degrees (positive or negative) adjustment. With the K-MAC unique patented design also allowing “precise / accurate” single wrench adjustment (Ultimate - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD).
FIXING IT RIGHT THE 1st TIME - And less than half the fitment time !
K-MAC Front Camber kit priced at $345 (with no special tools or costly time consuming need to remove control arms to install).
See #3 above (spoiler) re “Front and Rear kits” manufactured to suit the entire W205 range including C450 / C43 AMG (kits virtually all models 1968 to 2025).
Are any special tools required to remove the control arms myself? I have a friend who owns an auto service business and I feel he would R&R bushings for very little cost if I brought the arms and new bushings into the shop.
Also, if I drive around on my Pilot Sport A/S tires with an additional 0.5 degrees negative camber from proper stock alignment, how much faster will front tires wear out? If they normally last 40,000 miles, should I expect to get 30,000? 20,000? Less?
The NORMAL lower control arm bushings are already built with the accentric camber adjustment feature!! Now, the dealership says they never R&R the same bushing. They always press in new bushings. I searched my parts resources and found OEM (not sure the actual mfg yet) bushings on sale for 50% off (!!!!) so I bought a pair. Here's a random internet pic showing accentric design. Part number A2053333800.
I found a few YouTube videos on LCA replacement. I think they were all on C300 model, but I can't imagine my C43 being drastically different. I just need torque specs for each attachment. I'm going to make sure I have all the tools and do this in August. Next track day is in September. Woot woot! Can't wait to see how much tire wear improvement 0.5 degrees negative camber gets me on the track.
Here's a video of my suspension. I don't understand how changing one bushing works to change camber. There are two lower control arms (there may be more accurate terminology) and the tie rod connected to the wheel hub (axle?). If you push one out with an adjustable bushing, and adjust the tie rod out to correct the toe, what happens to the third (central) connection to the hub/axle? It's not moving. I need to Google Mercedes-Benz alignments.
You guys have any information or advice? I'm sure I'm not breaking News ground, right?
I've determined by the part number, and associated part diagrams, that the adjustable bushing goes on what I'm calling the Spring Arm. (The strut & spring assembly also attaches to this arm. Part 200 in the pic.)
I've acquired a couple of tools that I needed.
Now, I'm just in need of torque specs for reattaching everything. Can anyone help?
- Bushing
- Strut
- Ball joint
Everything moves a lot more than I imagined. So, it seems sensible that one arm can be pushed out from the frame more with a bushing, and the tie rod adjusted for toe. Anyone have torque info?
This thread answers my questions. I'm going forward with using stock accentric bushings to get a touch more negative camber.
What route did you go? I wanted this too, but the K-mac bushings were a pain in the a**. The would creak and groan. My suspension guy put a GoPro underneath the car and the bushings were deforming way more than they should. Lubricating would work for a while but it would get creaking again with 'tak' 'tak' sounds. I ended up lowering the car with H&R VTF adjustable to dial in the front camber. MUCH better handling now. I was able to shave 5s+ on a 2m lap without any other changes.
This car doesn't have the aftermarket support that BMW does unfortunately.
What route did you go? I wanted this too, but the K-mac bushings were a pain in the a**. The would creak and groan. My suspension guy put a GoPro underneath the car and the bushings were deforming way more than they should. Lubricating would work for a while but it would get creaking again with 'tak' 'tak' sounds. I ended up lowering the car with H&R VTF adjustable to dial in the front camber. MUCH better handling now. I was able to shave 5s+ on a 2m lap without any other changes.
This car doesn't have the aftermarket support that BMW does unfortunately.
Front and Rear bush design in production since 1990’s - well and truly proven in competition - let alone daily commuting ! …Grinding / noise is result at initial alignment - “a bolt is not fully tightened / clamped”.
IS A OFFSET ADJUSTER - bush mounts therefore having Internal and External hardened teeth !
Stipulated when initially aligning must be fully clamped - otherwise constant brake and acceleration teeth worn off - “and can no longer be reclamped”.
K-MAC COMPARISON - FRONT CAMBER KIT (ALL W205 MODELS) $345 ...(less cost than 1 quality tire).
PRICE / FITMENT versus PAIR OEM OFFSET BUSHES (tools and labour time).
1) K-MAC - No special tools needed. Or time consuming disconnection of ball joint plus control arm removal and need for hydraulic bench press to remove and replace bushes !
2) Instead of “OEM inaccurate one offset position” of Camber (equal both sides) and “only half a degree” of adjustment provided.
K-MAC up to 4 times the adjustment range - TO FIX IT RIGHT THE 1ST. TIME - And importantly each side individually and precisely adjustable !
3) K-MAC ULTIMATE adjustment - Easily accessible and “precise single wrench” - Direct on Alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
4) TRACK DAYS - K-MAC can “dial in extra 2 degrees Negative Camber” - to dramatically reduce “Understeer”. Allowing to hit those corner apexes every time and go deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response !
5) Also K-MAC bushes are Uprated - having the experience of manufacturing Performance Bushings longer than anyone else - Since 1964. Versus factory mass produced being a compromise of soft rubber / one compound to suit all !
What route did you go? I wanted this too, but the K-mac bushings were a pain in the a**. The would creak and groan. My suspension guy put a GoPro underneath the car and the bushings were deforming way more than they should. Lubricating would work for a while but it would get creaking again with 'tak' 'tak' sounds. I ended up lowering the car with H&R VTF adjustable to dial in the front camber. MUCH better handling now. I was able to shave 5s+ on a 2m lap without any other changes.
This car doesn't have the aftermarket support that BMW does unfortunately.
@h44b
Hi. Im still waiting for my friend with the repair shop to be available. I'm going to put on the MB accentric bushings. It is only going to allow 0.5* more negative camber max, but that leaves it very streetable. This is my daily driver (almost 10,000 miles/year), so i don't want 3* negative camber. I can't be wearing out my all season tires so quickly. Also, I have another car project going on, so I don't want to spend a bunch of money on this right now. I assume your solution was well over $1000 for parts alone. I'm in for $160 in parts, pizza & beer for labor. This just suits my needs at the moment.
Regarding my question and videos about the steering knuckle & alignment, did you have to do anything about the other, longer control arm when trying the Kmac solution? I still don't understand how only one component (LCA) can be repositioned without causing problems. Your thoughts?
Also, there is nothing better for camber adjustments than the kits from KMac. I have used their products for years and have found nothing better.
I should update my thread above with some recent track days as I have found that along with all of the changes I mention in that thread, that I have added the new Hoosier Time Attack tires. They have a very stiff sidewall that provided an incredible experience. In fact, my buddy has a full Lotus Evora race car. I was only 1.5 seconds off his time and he is a very good driver. Of course, I destroyed the brakes and this time, it looks like I will need new calipers...but it was worth it!
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
