When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Added first qt. of oil at 2,700 mi. Did the first oil change at 2,800 mi. after a baseline dyno, would have had a sample but the tech forgot..Added 1 qt. at 5,100, 7,250, and a 1/2 qt. at 10,100, just before the K1 dyno. Service A, oil change at 10,300.
Going back to the mustang dyno for a K1 compare with my baseline. Previous K1 was on a dynojet. I'll post those for a comparison.
FYI, for my 1,000 mi. break-in, I didn't exceed the speed limit, but after a thorough warm-up, I would go WOT through at least a few gears every other drive or so.
i know we've been through this before, at length, but what oil are you using?...Mobil 1 5W40?
and im assuming thats the ESP Formula M one?
thank you! and if i had any idea what all that really meant i'd chime in...throw up a CBC and ill pitch in my thoughts lol
Hi, heres my analysis report again for comparison.
I had to add my first litre at around 500mi. (800km) and it went through a litre about every 500-600 mi. (1000 km) for the next 5-6000 km. Really varied the engine speed and load increasingly harder the first 1000 mi and then worked it full out after that. Went to Davenport motorsports in Calgary at around 1200 mi. and it made a best 376.02 on their Dynojet.
Did my first oil change at 2331 mi. (3886 km)
Oil consumption has been dropping less and less as time goes by. Smoked on start up maybe 2-3 times over the whole year. Used Amsoil this last change and will try another different brand next time.
Well re above post, it seems to not want to attach my analysis report again because its already posted in the "Engine oil" thread. Anybody know how to bring it over here? or else you are going to have to read it from there. #@*& computer geek s**t.
i know we've been through this before, at length, but what oil are you using?...Mobil 1 5W40?
and im assuming thats the ESP Formula M one?
thank you! and if i had any idea what all that really meant i'd chime in...throw up a CBC and ill pitch in my thoughts lol
It is the ESP Formula M 5w40. I think the conclusions I draw are:
1. Excessive numbers of oil changes are unnecessary. However, if you were a serious track/drag racer, you would probably want to know what your oil was doing and maybe change it more often.
2. It takes close to 10,000 miles for the engine to completely break-in, i.e., for the rings to seal. Better seal = less oil consumption, more power.
Thx for posting. I did not have my 2k-9.5k miles (odo mileage) oil change analyzed because of the 6 qts of makeup oil I dumped in along the way. My oil consumption is settling down though and I will pull the oil out at 15k miles and do a UOA, so there will be about 5.5k miles on it. FWIW I'm guessing this oil will have had as many as 12 dyno runs on it...we'll see if there is any effect possibly attributable to that. The controversial aspect of the ESP formula seems to be that the TBN (a lower starting point for the .51 oils than the .50 oils) makes it less suitable for extended drain intervals but that point is moot with the amount of makeup oil I'm using.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Looks like a good report and some comfort that all is going well with your engine. Nice of you to share that with us.
I generally do UOA at all oil changes so I will try to post some up as I do oil changes.
I have been using Renewable Lubricants Inc. 5w40 in the R Class but not sure yet if I will run it in the C63 or stay with a MB Approved Oil. The '08 CDI burns so dirty I do changes ~ 7500 km (4688 miles) instead of 15000 km. on the FSS.
UOA is kind of expensive so I do it because it adds to my enjoyment of my cars and adds to the hobby.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
I noticed you just started posting again here at MBW after 13 years of silence, and posted in every old oil thread across multiple forums that you could find (so far). This one's from 7 years ago. What's up with that, just catching up?
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
I could find old threads, or start new ones. I happened to be looking for some direction in terms of quantity, etc for my change. In the threads I find a lot of unwarranted deference to Mobil 1 0w-40.
Mostly I try to explain the MB specs are based on generic ACEA specs, that all mfg use as a basis for their own specs, like 229.....which usually add mpg and cold cranking stipulations.
Typically, people are like,"oh I used the same oil forever and it's fine". Well, running out to 13k isn't the best way to service the car. 2 changes of run of the mill oils work better than one change of Mobil 1.
To that, I have a 60k 10 year old car that was under serviced. I want to clean the engine up, so continuing on with 13k changes of Mobil 1 is not going to do that. Instead, I use a high detergent, low volatility HD truck oil....like Rotella. Doing that, or using another good oil like Pennzoil HiMiles 10w-40 is great at 5000-6000 miles, verses 12-13k. There is no substitute for physically draining out contaminates like condensed water and excess fuel. That mixed with old oil, warmed and heated....most guys want to continue with the old oil! No magic oil is going to counteract that as well as draining it the F out and starting fresh.
This is my point, there are better oils and methods than 13k on Mobil 1.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
No, I was here before to do some research for Dad's MB. I'm an Audi and VAG guy, but wanted a convert for summer. All the Audi converts has some sort of flaw with the engine or trans so much the MB seemed a lot better choice, and I am happy with it.
Every mfg had some oil related problems inc MB. Pushing out oil changes too far is never a good idea, and many owners have no clue, plus quick lube places will tell them they used "mobil 1" when they used drum dino. If MB stuck with shorter intervals, maybe people would have been draining it at 5000-7500 miles, getting a good result with ANY kind of oil.
When I studied up on the whole extended drain issue w/Euro cars in 2001 onwards, I learned a lot, and also oil quality has changed, it's a lot better than 15 years ago. Dino oil is now better than synth of that era. Still I use synth in my turbos, but the dino oil we use now is excellent. Mobil Clean, for instance, uses a solvent-dewaxed base oil that qualifies as groupe III....a synthetic, for $15 a jug. The additive packs are the same from dino and synth, because the base oil is essentially the same "hydrocracked", the chemistry is the same....not like old "real synthetics" of PAO and ester that did eat seals.
Two quick things, Shell PZ now switched to their gas-to-liquid base oil, a true synth with not crude to refine, it's seal-neutral too. Also the new nano titanium dioxide additive that gets worked into the metal lattice from Kendall (conoco) Castrol uses it too.
Guys are afraid to use this??? It has the generic A3 spec I talked about and is state of the art. See, mfg specs add a licence cost and no real value. Also they are stagnant, locked into their formula for decades, not incorporating new tech like HD diesel truck oils do, there is a brand new standard out "CK"(?) now, look over that Lubrizol link.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Please stay on topic. Do you see what forum you're in?
There are oil forums for this. It sure sounds an awful lot like you're looking for an oil argument, and I can tell you that you're unlikely to find the fight you seek here.
I look forward to the rest of this thread. It's showing great potential for carnage.
04-20-2010, 01:42 AM
