Brake fluid pressure issues plz help
Hi guys,
I took my car at a performance shop to install my new rotors, pads, stainless steel lines as well as bleed the brakes and put new fluid.
They say they are having a lot of issues with the pressure in the pedal and repeated the bleeding pressure a couple of times using different techniques and tools with always fair but not optimal results (pedal feeling not as stiff as before).
The max brake fluid pressure they could get was 10 psi.
Can anyone let me know what tools and pressure you use when bleeding your brakes.
Anything help would be appreciated I'm tracking the car in 2 days so I'm desperate to find a solution.
thanks
Last edited by chief63; Jul 13, 2010 at 06:43 PM.
Your OEM lines were rated for 6000psi and the new SS are rated at 10000psi
Well the master cylinder handles that, I was talking more about the brake fluid pressure when flushing the lines. I've read anywhere from 10 psi to 30 psi which is a huge difference. Too litltle pressure will make the pedal sloppy. They are pretty positive that there is no air in the lines (tested numerous times).
thanks
they say if not it won't work properly.
Can anyone confirm this?
thanks
Sounds like you've got some air trapped in the system, somewhere. This could easily happen if they let the brake system run dry while they were changing out the lines. Air may well be trapped in the ABS pump...? I know FORDs (heresy, I know), will require dealer tools to cycle the ABS pump if you run it dry.
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Well the master cylinder handles that, I was talking more about the brake fluid pressure when flushing the lines. I've read anywhere from 10 psi to 30 psi which is a huge difference. Too litltle pressure will make the pedal sloppy. They are pretty positive that there is no air in the lines (tested numerous times).
thanks
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Sounds like you've got some air trapped in the system, somewhere. This could easily happen if they let the brake system run dry while they were changing out the lines. Air may well be trapped in the ABS pump...? I know FORDs (heresy, I know), will require dealer tools to cycle the ABS pump if you run it dry.
I have read a lot about air in the ABS pump as you suggested and it makes sense. Still can anyone who changed their lines chime in? Does the abs pump need to be serviced when changing the lines?
Now I'm scared to drive the car and break the pump if that's the case. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow.
I would really be concerned about that ABS pump. It may not be air trapped in the unit, but I wouldn't risk driving it like that. I'm sure the dealership can square you away (after you give them some of your green)
I would really be concerned about that ABS pump. It may not be air trapped in the unit, but I wouldn't risk driving it like that. I'm sure the dealership can square you away (after you give them some of your green)

best regards
I have read a lot about air in the ABS pump as you suggested and it makes sense. Still can anyone who changed their lines chime in? Does the abs pump need to be serviced when changing the lines?
Now I'm scared to drive the car and break the pump if that's the case. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow.
Got the new tires installed this morning and in the meantime called every MB dealer, the soonest I could get an appointment was Thursday so a bit late for me.
My family knows a certified MB garage and they accepted to take me in last minute.
So far the first thing they noticed was that the stainless steel lines were not installed correctly. Wether this is the issue or not, it seems very likely.
They will have to fix everything and purge the system once more. I'll know later today if its fixed and keep you posted on the issue.
I'm just pissed right now at the other performance shop. They work on race cars (audis, bmws, etc) so I'm surprised they messed things up. But this has been the second time something happens so I will deal with the new shop from now on if they do a good job.
If the problem persists I'll visit the dealer this Thursday but miss tomorrow track day at Calabogie.
I'll see what they come up with.
On the good side, the evosport rotors were installed and they are amazing. The look is sick and the car feels so light its insane. I'd say it's having at least 200-300 pounds off the car. They say to multiply rotating mass saved by 10, so yeah it does feel 400 pounds lighter, definitely as if I had dropped off 2 guys like me or 4 slim girls, but then again I wouldn't drop em off LOL
Last edited by chief63; Jul 13, 2010 at 01:02 PM.
Speaking to the initial guys who made the install, they mentionned everything was fine when they installed the front rotors and pads (taken for a test drive) with the evosport shims.
So its either the lines, fluid or rear rotors and pads. Something interesting they mentionned is that the titanium shims in the back did not fit very well, and there is somewhat of a loose of 1/16 inch. X 2 that 1/8 inch. That's huge when talking about brakes.
I told the new garage to remove the shims in the back so I will see if that could be the source of the problem.
I was also mentionned that Evosport 2 piece rotors are floating disks, and the pedal might be less responsive on initial push. Can anyone confirm?
thanks
Ta da, remove the back shims and its fine now. The braking is amazing. I love the mod so far. Calabogie here I come!
Getting power bleeder ASAP
Found the sweet spot on the RE-11's to right at 41psi HOT running Nitrogen
People saying 41 psi is high, well I'd say 41 psi hot was about a cold 32-34 psi in my case and really a very good sweet spot.



